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      05-27-2020, 09:12 AM   #1
blackedout330i
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Thumbs down car wont start but cranks and cranks codes inside

hey so long story short I had my rain tray out and the cabin filter removed when I was doing the valve cover gasket. A bucket of water was poured on my windshield and likely went into the engine bay and did something.

The car wont start. It will crank and crank and crank but wont turn over.

I pulled the codes and have:

p0303 (cylinder 3 misfire)
p0306(cylinder 6 misfire)
p1417
p1076
p1049
p0123
p1625
p2120
p1618


am i completely effed? Not sure how to diagnose wtf is going on. Battery and Alternator were brand new and replaced within last 4 mo
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      05-27-2020, 02:35 PM   #2
gbalthrop
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackedout330i View Post
...[2006 330i (?)]... [Microfilter Housings (?)] out and the cabin filter removed when I was doing the valve cover gasket. A bucket of water was poured on my windshield and likely went into the engine bay and did something. [likely went into E-box where the DME (Engine Control Module) is located.] The car wont start. It will crank and crank and crank but wont turn over.
...
p0303, P0306, p1417, p1076, p1049, p0123, p1625, p2120, p1618
...
MOST of those codes EXCEPT the two misfire codes relate to the Acclerator Pedal Module Signals or VVT function. The first thing to do (easy with Microfilter Housings already removed) is open the E-box and check the connectors attached to the DME. Remove each (along with the DME) and make sure the Pins & Sockets are DRY, and CLEAN with Electronic Contact Cleaner.

Check fuse F07 in the E-box, and make sure it is intact. That supplies power to the VVT Relay (K6319) per this TIS wiring diagram, and Installation Location:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...ording/hxCHGvd
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...lim/1VnY2xsMOA

It is also possible that if water was dumped on the area of the Jumpstart Terminal, the fusible link that powers fuse F07 was "blown" (on top of the battery). So start with making sure the DME & its connectors are dry, and then test for Voltage at the F07 fuse socket with ignition ON.

Here is the ENTIRE TIS F07 circuit, showing the fusible link:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e90-330i-lim/uJNUdaW

Please let us know what you find,
George
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      05-27-2020, 04:13 PM   #3
blackedout330i
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gbalthrop View Post
MOST of those codes EXCEPT the two misfire codes relate to the Acclerator Pedal Module Signals or VVT function. The first thing to do (easy with Microfilter Housings already removed) is open the E-box and check the connectors attached to the DME. Remove each (along with the DME) and make sure the Pins & Sockets are DRY, and CLEAN with Electronic Contact Cleaner.

Check fuse F07 in the E-box, and make sure it is intact. That supplies power to the VVT Relay (K6319) per this TIS wiring diagram, and Installation Location:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...ording/hxCHGvd
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...lim/1VnY2xsMOA

It is also possible that if water was dumped on the area of the Jumpstart Terminal, the fusible link that powers fuse F07 was "blown" (on top of the battery). So start with making sure the DME & its connectors are dry, and then test for Voltage at the F07 fuse socket with ignition ON.

Here is the ENTIRE TIS F07 circuit, showing the fusible link:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e90-330i-lim/uJNUdaW

Please let us know what you find,
George

Where and what is the ebox? Im a competant mechanic just never heard of that before. I checked all fuses inside the glovebox well all except the mini ones, and they were all good
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      05-28-2020, 02:26 PM   #4
gbalthrop
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackedout330i View Post
Where and what is the ebox? Im a competant mechanic just never heard of that before. I checked all fuses inside the glovebox well all except the mini ones, and they were all good
Perhaps you should consider "Reading MORE & Wrenching LESS"

You sound like you know what you are doing as long as you understand how a system works. With a car with ~ 20 different Electronic Control Modules, and a DME Engine Control Module that is actually about 7 different Modules in one place, knowing WHAT is IN the E-BOX is probably a good place to start, and "newtis.info" which I linked earlier for the "Valve Gear" schematic is a good place to start to know what's IN the E-BOX. TIS is VERY detailed, and trying to understand the detailed information from a phone screen is NOT the way to go. Hope you have a computer screen to view it.

NOTE the "Installation Location" of fuse F07 which I linked earlier:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...lim/1VnY2xsMOA
Here is the SAME Installation Location opened in a "New Tab" which does NOT contain distracting ads & junk:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/obj/1VnYAOUzOT

Note the "Insets at Right-Top/Bottom. The Top-right inset shows the general location in the vehicle, which is the Right-vehicle-side of the engine compartment at the firewall, and the Lower-right inset attempts to show the E-box with the cover removed. The large or "zoomed-in" photo shows the Fuse F07 in the Right side of the E-box as seen with cover removed.

There are ~ 6 other fuses in that E-box on your model, the most important ones being powered by the "DME Relay", and you should get a rough idea of their function:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...-fault/i4RGgA7

TIS Schematics are "Interactive" which means you can click on ANY BLUE Component ID# and get MORE information, such as Installation Location or Connector View. Here are those items for Fuse Carrier X8680 which holds fuses F01 through F05, ALSO in the E-box:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e90-330i-lim/SNEe0ZE
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...i-lim/CTM851kX

If you haven't got the idea yet, here is a TIS Procedure for E-box replacement that shows multiple views of the Box & HOW to open it, etc.:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...it-box/OzD5SuW

Please let us know what you find,
George
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      05-28-2020, 07:29 PM   #5
blackedout330i
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gbalthrop View Post
Perhaps you should consider "Reading MORE & Wrenching LESS"

You sound like you know what you are doing as long as you understand how a system works. With a car with ~ 20 different Electronic Control Modules, and a DME Engine Control Module that is actually about 7 different Modules in one place, knowing WHAT is IN the E-BOX is probably a good place to start, and "newtis.info" which I linked earlier for the "Valve Gear" schematic is a good place to start to know what's IN the E-BOX. TIS is VERY detailed, and trying to understand the detailed information from a phone screen is NOT the way to go. Hope you have a computer screen to view it.

NOTE the "Installation Location" of fuse F07 which I linked earlier:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...lim/1VnY2xsMOA
Here is the SAME Installation Location opened in a "New Tab" which does NOT contain distracting ads & junk:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/obj/1VnYAOUzOT

Note the "Insets at Right-Top/Bottom. The Top-right inset shows the general location in the vehicle, which is the Right-vehicle-side of the engine compartment at the firewall, and the Lower-right inset attempts to show the E-box with the cover removed. The large or "zoomed-in" photo shows the Fuse F07 in the Right side of the E-box as seen with cover removed.

There are ~ 6 other fuses in that E-box on your model, the most important ones being powered by the "DME Relay", and you should get a rough idea of their function:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...-fault/i4RGgA7

TIS Schematics are "Interactive" which means you can click on ANY BLUE Component ID# and get MORE information, such as Installation Location or Connector View. Here are those items for Fuse Carrier X8680 which holds fuses F01 through F05, ALSO in the E-box:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e90-330i-lim/SNEe0ZE
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...i-lim/CTM851kX

If you haven't got the idea yet, here is a TIS Procedure for E-box replacement that shows multiple views of the Box & HOW to open it, etc.:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...it-box/OzD5SuW

Please let us know what you find,
George

Im coming from E46 world. We didn't have an ebox. Anyways, I checked 2 fuses up front, they were good, then one on the left side towards the firewlal and it was good also. Going to unclip all harness and check what looks to be a series of fuses on the right side center of ebox. I have not checked those as of yet. I will work on that tonight/tomorrow and report back my findings. This is awful shes in such beautiful shape and well maintained. Only owned for 4 months now eek Thanks for the help George.
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      05-28-2020, 09:33 PM   #6
blackedout330i
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I hate that I can edit posts on here. I guess I'll see "competant" and not competent forever on the interwebz. Anyways, f07 fuse was good. I dont see any visible water in here yet. My car never came with the ebox cover.....

thanks previous owner.

so now I'm wondering if the water went straight into the dme.. going to photograph where all these plugs fit, pull, and crack open the dme and pray. Going to grab an ebox cover from the pick n pull.

Took my new battery I purchased in 02/2020 that was made on 12/19 and autozone told me the battery is no good. Going to go replace that and then diagnose this better. The misfire codes 303 and 306 were there before due to clips not being clipped in to the new ignition coils properly or my new plugs are not gapped correctly. Haven't had the chance to diagnose due to this water incident.
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      05-28-2020, 11:03 PM   #7
gbalthrop
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackedout330i View Post
... My car never came with the ebox cover.....thanks previous owner. [NOTE TO SELF: "Self, Order E-box cover" H20 & Electronics DON'T mix ]
...
BEFORE removing anything other than connectors to check for moisture, Check EACH of the following Fuses for function, and 12V+ at the fuse socket when Ignition is ON:
F01: Ignition Coils
F02: Camshaft Sensors
F03: Crankshaft Sensor & DME Main Power
F05: Fuel Injectors

EACH of those fuses has to have power (12V+) at the socket, AND, the fuse has to be intact. If ANY of the components listed above is NOT powered, then the Engine will NOT fire (your situation).

Here is circuit for each of those 4 fuses:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...nition/oVletnn
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e90-330i-lim/uWfX3KU
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e90-330i-lim/uT8YBGK
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...5-fuse/uWvfUBO

George
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      05-31-2020, 01:56 PM   #8
blackedout330i
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gbalthrop View Post
BEFORE removing anything other than connectors to check for moisture, Check EACH of the following Fuses for function, and 12V+ at the fuse socket when Ignition is ON:
F01: Ignition Coils
F02: Camshaft Sensors
F03: Crankshaft Sensor & DME Main Power
F05: Fuel Injectors

EACH of those fuses has to have power (12V+) at the socket, AND, the fuse has to be intact. If ANY of the components listed above is NOT powered, then the Engine will NOT fire (your situation).

Here is circuit for each of those 4 fuses:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...nition/oVletnn
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e90-330i-lim/uWfX3KU
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e90-330i-lim/uT8YBGK
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...5-fuse/uWvfUBO

George
pulled each fuse. visually look good. going to test them for continuity and then put back and and check for 12v at them now. I replaced battery with brand new battery. Seems the codes have changed now.

codes currently are

p1415
p0306

so ive got a misfire on cylinder 6. Does this mean firewall cylinder? I'd assume thats how they number cylinders. She fires up but idles a bit shitty.
I also ordered an INPA wire and going to get the software up and going soon. Ive got 7 days until I have to drive back to work lol

Last edited by blackedout330i; 05-31-2020 at 02:43 PM..
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      05-31-2020, 03:12 PM   #9
gbalthrop
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackedout330i View Post
pulled each fuse. visually look good. going to test for 12v at them now. I replaced battery with brand new battery. Seems the codes have changed now...I also ordered an INPA wire and going to get the software up and going soon. Ive got 7 days until I have to drive back to work lol
BEFORE changing anything else, check for voltage at the fuse sockets of EACH of the FOUR fuse sockets on the Fuse Carrier in the DME: F01, F02, F03 & F04, per the Installation Location previously linked. Your codes (New & Old ;-) indicate that AT LEAST F02 is NOT getting power, or transmitting that power to the DME to power the Cam Position Sensors & VANOS Solenoids, which would result in a "Crank, NO Start" situation due to the DME NOT being able to time Ignition & Injector Pulse, resulting in NO Spark and NO fuel injected.

Please take the time to understand how the DME Relay provides power to each of those four fuses, and test to see if the issue lies with ONE fuse or its circuit, or if ALL FOUR of those fuses are NOT getting power due to the fact that the DME Relay (K6300) is NOT activating or supplying power to all four fuses. THAT is the logical first step in identifying the general cause of your issue, and then doing further testing to identify the specific source of what appears to clearly be a lack of power supply to a component whose function is necessary to spark and injector pulse.

Here is the TIS wiring diagram that shows K6300 DME Relay providing power to each fuse F01 - F04:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/e...supply/bpRMI2V

Please let us know the status of each fuse, and if EACH socket has power (12V+) with Ignition ON.

George
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      05-31-2020, 03:25 PM   #10
gbalthrop
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WHAT did you change or "fix" between 2:56PM when you posted 10 codes, and 3:43 PM when you posted 2 entirely different codes with NO indication of what you did, and NO indication of whether/why the 10 prior codes no longer appeared, and the engine NOW starts???

You either have NO idea at all of what is involved in properly diagnosing an electrical fault situation, or absolutely NO consideration of anyone trying to help you in that diagnosis.

Yes, Cylinder #6 is rear of engine at firewall. The P1415 code COULD be caused by a vacuum leak, resulting in "UN-metered" air entering the engine, and too Lean condition which WILL cause rough idle. If you will provide the information requested above, I will suggest some tests you can do (involving reading MAF signal as Live Data/ Parameter, and reading Fuel Trims).

George
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      05-31-2020, 09:06 PM   #11
blackedout330i
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gbalthrop View Post
WHAT did you change or "fix" between 2:56PM when you posted 10 codes, and 3:43 PM when you posted 2 entirely different codes with NO indication of what you did, and NO indication of whether/why the 10 prior codes no longer appeared, and the engine NOW starts???

You either have NO idea at all of what is involved in properly diagnosing an electrical fault situation, or absolutely NO consideration of anyone trying to help you in that diagnosis.

Yes, Cylinder #6 is rear of engine at firewall. The P1415 code COULD be caused by a vacuum leak, resulting in "UN-metered" air entering the engine, and too Lean condition which WILL cause rough idle. If you will provide the information requested above, I will suggest some tests you can do (involving reading MAF signal as Live Data/ Parameter, and reading Fuel Trims).

George
There was water around the spark plug tube near the rear, i blew it out with bottled air. There was also some oil on my #1 ignition coil clip, sprayed it with electronic cleaner and reattached. started car, then got those codes.

Everything was good but at one point trying to give it 1/2 throttle came up with engine half power code and it was just creeping along like pedal at 0-100% meant nothing. barely got into parking lot. restarted car and it drives just fine. Sadly that glitch didnt trigger any codes. I now have 0 codes. I dont get it. I think i need to replace my valve cover to CCV hose. any idea on part number for the 330i? Everytime I need to order 2 different ones because they send a wrong one. last time it was difficult to get onto the ccv so maybe that could be causing my idle
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