[julyART]

Problem with front camber alignment. I know BMW front axle don't have camber adjustment.
In the past car had accident with one bended from inside rim. bended rim have been replaced. Nothing is bended in the front suspension visually.
Also was changed tension struts #6 (31126855741 and 31126855742) because of worn bushings.
I don’t have a clue how to fix camber front left wheel.

[exE36M3]

So... interesting you've asked for this.
I've been immersed in camber options these last two months.

The F30 series BMWs have no camber adjustment.
And the camber isn't always even.
On my car (2015 435i), my camber was -.7 and -.5 stock. (It's now -.8 and -1.1 after a springs lowering).

If you need the ability to adjust camber (the tilt of the wheel) here are the three main options I have found:

1. Camber plates
This replaces the upper strut mounts/hats with a plate that allows you to slide the top of the strut shaft forward/backward - changing the tilt of your wheel by allowing you to move the top point of the suspension. These are probably the simplest, and easiest adjustment of camber. The biggest downside, your car may knock or rattle because the vibration dampening of the camber plate is almost 0 compared to the solid rubber type mount in the stock units.

2. Lower control arms
You can get control arms from another BMW like the M3/M4 which are longer. And if I recall correctly, there might be a maker of an adjustable control arm for length. The arm essentially tilts your wheel also, but unlike the camber plates which tilt from the top, these tilt from the bottom. The upside is that this solution tends to be quiter and almost stock from a noise and ride quality. But the bad news is that not all BMWs can use this solution as the arms may prove too long for AWD axles and an alignment would be required immediately following installation.

3. Lower control arm BUSHINGS
This replaces the stock bushing in the lower control arm that attaches to the body. The bushing mounting hole is basically off centered so it can be rotated - thereby pushing the control arm closer or farther away. So similar to option 2... instead of a longer arm, you have an adjustable mounting point. Upside is getting negative camber adjustment and very low noise/vibration (if any). The only downside to this set-up is that it can be a pain for the alignment shop to get the camber settings locked-in.

Others will most likely chime in...

[jbiswurm]

Originally Posted by exE36M3

So... interesting you've asked for this.
I've been immersed in camber options these last two months.

The F30 series BMWs have no camber adjustment.
And the camber isn't always even.
On my car (2015 435i), my camber was -.7 and -.5 stock. (It's now -.8 and -1.1 after a springs lowering).

If you need the ability to adjust camber (the tilt of the wheel) here are the three main options I have found:

1. Camber plates
This replaces the upper strut mounts/hats with a plate that allows you to slide the top of the strut shaft forward/backward - changing the tilt of your wheel by allowing you to move the top point of the suspension. These are probably the simplest, and easiest adjustment of camber. The biggest downside, your car may knock or rattle because the vibration dampening of the camber plate is almost 0 compared to the solid rubber type mount in the stock units.

2. Lower control arms
You can get control arms from another BMW like the M3/M4 which are longer. And if I recall correctly, there might be a maker of an adjustable control arm for length. The arm essentially tilts your wheel also, but unlike the camber plates which tilt from the top, these tilt from the bottom. The upside is that this solution tends to be quiter and almost stock from a noise and ride quality. But the bad news is that not all BMWs can use this solution as the arms may prove too long for AWD axles and an alignment would be required immediately following installation.

3. Lower control arm BUSHINGS
This replaces the stock bushing in the lower control arm that attaches to the body. The bushing mounting hole is basically off centered so it can be rotated - thereby pushing the control arm closer or farther away. So similar to option 2... instead of a longer arm, you have an adjustable mounting point. Upside is getting negative camber adjustment and very low noise/vibration (if any). The only downside to this set-up is that it can be a pain for the alignment shop to get the camber settings locked-in.

Others will most likely chime in...

Bmw makes a wheel carrier hub assembly with 0.5 deg negative camber built in for exactly this purpose. Check real oem or call the dealer to ask. Probably around $300 in parts plus labor if you dont want to do it yourself.

[brigade24]

Originally Posted by exE36M3

1. Camber plates
This replaces the upper strut mounts/hats with a plate that allows you to slide the top of the strut shaft forward/backward - changing the tilt of your wheel by allowing you to move the top point of the suspension. These are probably the simplest, and easiest adjustment of camber. The biggest downside, your car may knock or rattle because the vibration dampening of the camber plate is almost 0 compared to the solid rubber type mount in the stock units.

you can avoid the knocking/rattling by increasing the preload on the front springs. if you don't need adjustability, don't get plates

if you're car is strictly for street and you don't need adjustability, the BMW swivel bearing that adds half a degree of negative camber may be the best option for you. Keep in mind there is a high labour cost since there is alot of stuff that bolts to that swivel bearing so not a cheap fix.

Since your car is RWD, the M3 Control arms may be the best option in terms of value. cheap to install, easy to get, and they last a decent amount of time...

[about94ninjas]

Also IIRC, M3 control arms will increase caster slightly, offsetting the wheel in your wheel well forward a little.

Did the shop who fixed it after the accident not check the alignment?

[jbiswurm]

Originally Posted by brigade24

you can avoid the knocking/rattling by increasing the preload on the front springs. if you don't need adjustability, don't get plates

if you're car is strictly for street and you don't need adjustability, the BMW swivel bearing that adds half a degree of negative camber may be the best option for you. Keep in mind there is a high labour cost since there is alot of stuff that bolts to that swivel bearing so not a cheap fix.

Since your car is RWD, the M3 Control arms may be the best option in terms of value. cheap to install, easy to get, and they last a decent amount of time...

But you cant add just one to correct the bent side since they are a different length than the f30. Otherwise i would recommend these as well.

[brigade24]

Originally Posted by jbiswurm

But you cant add just one to correct the bent side since they are a different length than the f30. Otherwise i would recommend these as well.

thats true...it would be an alignment nightmare if only arm was swapped out.