[Redn54]

Hello I got an N54 and am having bsd issues and not sure what the problem is, says i got missing ibs sensor and water pump missing even though I just changed the water pump and tstat but I don’t even think it was the problem. Definitely a bsd problem any thoughts?

[Tambohamilton]

Unplug the IBS, and see what codes return after clearing them.

BSD line codes could be the device mentioned in the code failing, or another device on the line failing and causing an error somewhere else. You need to selectively unplug and replug devices while reading/clearing codes in order to figure out which item(s) are actually failing.

[relative4]

The BSD consumers are IBS, WP, alternator, and oil level sensor. When one takes a crap, it offlines the others.
Unplug one at a time to isolate the defect.

[Tunafish]

Your 2E83 is a good indication where to start, water pump under voltage, check plug for corrosion.

[Redn54]

Originally Posted by Tunafish

Your 2E83 is a good indication where to start, water pump under voltage, check plug for corrosion.

since under voltage and a recent replacement of the water pump could it be the off brand alternator that the guy before me put in? and throwing all them off? since I was getting these codes prior to installing the wp. Also the codes only come back after a 50 miles or so

[Redn54]

Originally Posted by Tambohamilton

Unplug the IBS, and see what codes return after clearing them.

BSD line codes could be the device mentioned in the code failing, or another device on the line failing and causing an error somewhere else. You need to selectively unplug and replug devices while reading/clearing codes in order to figure out which item(s) are actually failing.

But these codes only come back after driving so long, hence if i unplug and clear the codes won’t they just not come back until the normal amount of distance it normally take to trigger them? which is why I have suspicions about the off brand alternator do you think that’s the culprit?

[ctuna]

Maybe your water pump is just bad.
You could run the purge procedure to see if it works.
And if it is bad you shouldn't be driving the car.

[Redn54]

Originally Posted by ctuna

Maybe your water pump is just bad.
You could run the purge procedure to see if it works.
And if it is bad you shouldn't be driving the car.

No I don’t think water pump because I did the bleed procedure, just like the oem pump I had in when I got the car but I took it to some bmw shit shop and told me to replace a whole list of things to try n jip me. I read the codes and replaced the water pump because of these bsd codes despite the original water pump doing the bleed procedure as well. So both pumps were/are capable of bleeding and they sound fine.

[relative4]

Originally Posted by Redn54

off brand alternator

This

[lowrydr310]

Originally Posted by Redn54

No I don’t think water pump because I did the bleed procedure, just like the oem pump I had in when I got the car but I took it to some bmw shit shop and told me to replace a whole list of things to try n jip me. I read the codes and replaced the water pump because of these bsd codes despite the original water pump doing the bleed procedure as well. So both pumps were/are capable of bleeding and they sound fine.

Do you have ISTA+? I had a BSD fault that showed up as an oil level sensor that said INACTIVE. ISTA+ brings up a diagnostics screen with instructions where it monitors the bus in real time and it will indicate when the malfunctioning device is removed. In my case when I disconnected the BSD wire from the water pump the fault condition was cleared so it was a bad water pump. The pump itself was working fine up until then, it was a problem with the data bus electronics on the pump that failed so I had to replace it. I believe the pump went into a failsafe mode where it would continue to pump coolant at a predetermined rate in the absence of communication.

[Tunafish]

Yeah those BSD are a pain.. I was getting them and ended up being the coils.. It only did it when it warmed up and most of the time it shut down charge from the alternator; once it tried to kill the car spiking voltage to 18.5v. My point is most would say it was bad alternator but changing coils stopped issues 5k miles ago.. At least your issue is pointing to a bad part. Good luck.