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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > BMW E90/E92/E93 3-series General Forums > General E90 Sedan / E91 Wagon / E92 Coupe / E93 Cabrio > Serpentine belt



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      10-17-2020, 01:22 AM   #1
213e90n51
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Serpentine belt

how do you know if your belts are going out?
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      10-17-2020, 08:17 AM   #2
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Squeaking, frayed, oiled are good indicators.
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      10-17-2020, 08:49 AM   #3
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You can go on Gates website and get some good information on the subject. With modern serpentine belts, you have to look for micro cracks on the ribs. Gates says the wear rating is between 60,000 to 90,000 miles. On my N52's I've replaced the belt at 100,000 mile intervals. On my Z4 I actually let it go to 105,000. It was worn, but not catastrophically so. I was not having any drivability problems.

Now on my GM Truck, around 9 years and 75,000 miles the power steering began to act up. It was getting intermittently hard to turn the steering wheel; the truck has 33'' tires as factory equipment. Instead of panicking that the steering rack or pump was going bad, I replaced the serpentine belt, and that cured the problem. Obviously the belt was slipping. The belt looked perfectly fine and was not squealing.

Going on my record of not replacing good parts preemptively, and knowing the industry manufacturers recommend an interval of near 100,000 miles, I follow a 100,000-mile replacement interval.
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      10-17-2020, 08:51 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Efthreeoh View Post
You can go on Gates website and get some good information on the subject. With modern serpentine belts, you have to look for micro cracks on the ribs. Gates says the wear rating is between 60,000 to 90,000 miles. On my N52's I've replaced the belt at 100,000 mile intervals. On my Z4 I actually let it go to 105,000. It was worn, but not catastrophically so. I was not having any drivability problems.

Now on my GM Truck, around 9 years and 75,000 miles the power steering began to act up. It was getting intermittently hard to turn the steering wheel. Instead of panicking that the rack or pump was going bad, I replaced the serpentine belt, and that cured the problem. Obviously the belt was slipping. The belt looked perfectly fine and was not squealing.

Going on my record of not replacing good parts preemptively, and knowing the industry manufacturers recommend an interval of near 100,000 miles, I follow a 100,000-mile replacement interval.
wow thanks you so much! I just want my car to last forever.
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      10-17-2020, 09:08 AM   #5
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I generally replace it every 80,000 miles or when it starts squeaking, whichever comes first. In my experience, 80k is when you'll start to hear it.
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      10-17-2020, 10:19 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Welcome to NBA Jam View Post
I generally replace it every 80,000 miles or when it starts squeaking, whichever comes first. In my experience, 80k is when you'll start to hear it.
Damn! Every 80k? Your car must have 300k miles on the dash

JK

But this is perfect advice

Get the belt a bit earlier then needed

Less mess and hassle to deal with
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      10-17-2020, 11:10 AM   #7
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The tensioner is usually the bigger problem or oil getting on the
belt . The Belts will last a long time these days.
It the tensioner gets weak the belt can walk off the tensioner.
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      10-17-2020, 01:54 PM   #8
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Given what can happen if the belt comes off on these cars (sucked into the engine and causing VERY BAD THINGS to happen), as a low mileage driver I replaced mine on a schedule rather than by miles. I did the tensioner, idler, and belt on my wagon at 8 years and 46K, and just did the new-to-me convertible at 50K. ~$100 every 8-10 years and ~50K is cheap insurance. Basically, I just did it as part of a major all fluids/filters service on each car. At 48K, the idler on the wagon was starting to chirp, and if I am taking the belt off, I'm not putting the old one back on.

But if I pounded on the miles like Efthreeoh I'd probably do 100K as well (but keeping a sharp eye and ear on the pulleys). IIRC that's three years for him...
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      10-17-2020, 02:12 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by krhodes1 View Post
Given what can happen if the belt comes off on these cars (sucked into the engine and causing VERY BAD THINGS to happen), as a low mileage driver I replaced mine on a schedule rather than by miles. I did the tensioner, idler, and belt on my wagon at 8 years and 46K, and just did the new-to-me convertible at 50K. ~$100 every 8-10 years and ~50K is cheap insurance. Basically, I just did it as part of a major all fluids/filters service on each car. At 48K, the idler on the wagon was starting to chirp, and if I am taking the belt off, I'm not putting the old one back on.

But if I pounded on the miles like Efthreeoh I'd probably do 100K as well (but keeping a sharp eye and ear on the pulleys). IIRC that's three years for him...
According to my records, Belt change #1 was at 98,939 on 12/31/2009; Belt change #2 was 195,570 on 11/17/2012; Belt #3 and tensioner #1 was at 297,950 on 3/19/2016.

Looks like I'm due soon for belt #4.

Gates info I was referencing earlier:

https://www.gates.com/us/en/industri...belt-wear.html

Specifically from Gates website, "

Tech Tip #1: Belt Inspection Changes
With traditional Chloroprene (neoprene) serpentine belts, standard diagnostics called for replacement of the belt if it showed three cracks in a three inch section. However, today’s EPDM belts are much more resistant to cracking, since they can run up to 100,000 miles or beyond without visual cracks - despite the belt being worn to near failure. This resilient material quality makes EPDM belts more durable than their chloroprene counterparts, but also significantly harder to conduct a visual belt wear diagnosis."
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A manual transmission can be set to "comfort", "sport", and "track" modes simply by the technique and speed at which you shift it; it doesn't need "modes", modes are for manumatics that try to behave like a real 3-pedal manual transmission. If you can money-shift it, it's a manual transmission. "Yeah, but NO ONE puts an automatic trans shift knob on a manual transmission."

Last edited by Efthreeoh; 10-17-2020 at 02:21 PM..
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      10-17-2020, 03:49 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 213e90n51 View Post
how do you know if your belts are going out?
Some where between 60 to 100,000 miles is when I'd replace the belt, tensioner & pulleys..

You can get a lifetime warranty on all of this for $120-30 at FCP Euro.
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      10-17-2020, 04:02 PM   #11
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wow thanks you so much! I just want my car to last forever.
Nothing lasts forever
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      10-17-2020, 04:06 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BdSM n54iS View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by 213e90n51 View Post
wow thanks you so much! I just want my car to last forever.
Nothing lasts forever
as long as i grow old with it and flying cars are above me. Ill be chillin with my e90 in my garage next to my dream cars. Black 997.2 S and a prelci Blue 325i e90. And Green 1990 Mitsubishi Montero
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      10-17-2020, 04:36 PM   #13
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1990 Mitsubishi Montero two door or four? I had a Dodge Raider around that year. I really liked that little rig.
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      10-17-2020, 06:55 PM   #14
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1990 Mitsubishi Montero two door or four? I had a Dodge Raider around that year. I really liked that little rig.
hehehe saw this one with original owner
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      10-18-2020, 12:27 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Efthreeoh View Post
According to my records, Belt change #1 was at 98,939 on 12/31/2009; Belt change #2 was 195,570 on 11/17/2012; Belt #3 and tensioner #1 was at 297,950 on 3/19/2016.

Looks like I'm due soon for belt #4.

Gates info I was referencing earlier:

https://www.gates.com/us/en/industri...belt-wear.html

Specifically from Gates website, "

Tech Tip #1: Belt Inspection Changes
With traditional Chloroprene (neoprene) serpentine belts, standard diagnostics called for replacement of the belt if it showed three cracks in a three inch section. However, today’s EPDM belts are much more resistant to cracking, since they can run up to 100,000 miles or beyond without visual cracks - despite the belt being worn to near failure. This resilient material quality makes EPDM belts more durable than their chloroprene counterparts, but also significantly harder to conduct a visual belt wear diagnosis."
This is why I say better safe than sorry - the belt and pulleys are cheap - a motor sure isn't. If it was just a matter of a tow it wouldn't be such a big deal. At only 46K (but 8 years), the idler pulley on my car was notably past it's prime when I took it off. The belt looked perfectly fine, but what's $20 in 8-10 years?

Shame they can't come up with something like wear bars on tires.
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      10-18-2020, 01:31 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BdSM n54iS View Post
Nothing lasts forever
Even cold November rain.


I'm on my second belt at 135K. Belt was first changed at unknown mileage by previous owner in 2011, but my tensioner was bending with the pulley out of plane with the other pulleys so I had to replace it. $16 for a brand new Continental belt made in Germany was a no brainier, but the old one looked just fine.

The new Continental belt was identical to the old belt, with all the same markings except the BMW logo and part number.
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      10-18-2020, 06:37 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by krhodes1 View Post
This is why I say better safe than sorry - the belt and pulleys are cheap - a motor sure isn't. If it was just a matter of a tow it wouldn't be such a big deal. At only 46K (but 8 years), the idler pulley on my car was notably past it's prime when I took it off. The belt looked perfectly fine, but what's $20 in 8-10 years?

Shame they can't come up with something like wear bars on tires.
Agree. The experience with the my Hummer was a bit of an eyeopener for me. I regularly check condition of the belts at every oil change, which is annual for that vehicle. I really thought I had an issue with the PS pump or steering rack because the belt looked fine. I took a shot with replacing the belt because it was in the replacement range and a cheap throw-parts-at-it approach.
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      10-18-2020, 11:51 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by 213e90n51 View Post
hehehe saw this one with original owner
My lust for that is strong! Always liked these and the early Isuzu Troopers. Of course, in Maine they dissolved into dust in short order.
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