[Widowmaker_f32]

so recently my car was making crazy sounds on WOT and started losing power on high RPMs (cutoff sounds but louder with crackles)
I have a 435i 2014 95k miles on it, running stage 2 custom tune and stage 3 XHP.
Mods: vrsf dp, vrsf cp, high flow air intake
recently was driving to work on sport+ manual on 2nd gear WOT heard crackles coming from the exhaust switched back to D and comfort and the car went in safe mode with no check engine light and no drivetrain faults.
Got my obd2 adapter and ran for codes on MHD
dme and transmission gave no faults but had a shadow code from the transmission:

- Transmission shadow (inactive) codes -
420801 - Electric motor clutch 2 sensor: Supply
short circuit to B+.

and few days ago i had a super knocking fault on cylinder 5 but this code never came up and i have no car logger to read the graphs on it, is there any software i can use other than MHD ?

long story short, after having the super knocking fault I flashed my car back to stock and took it for a spin to see if the problem still occurs on WOT and there was no issue the car ran perfectly smooth and fine.

I need help please

[chinniciF32]

Originally Posted by Widowmaker_f32

so recently my car was making crazy sounds on WOT and started losing power on high RPMs (cutoff sounds but louder with crackles)
I have a 435i 2014 95k miles on it, running stage 2 custom tune and stage 3 XHP.
Mods: vrsf dp, vrsf cp, high flow air intake
recently was driving to work on sport+ manual on 2nd gear WOT heard crackles coming from the exhaust switched back to D and comfort and the car went in safe mode with no check engine light and no drivetrain faults.
Got my obd2 adapter and ran for codes on MHD
dme and transmission gave no faults but had a shadow code from the transmission:

- Transmission shadow (inactive) codes -
420801 - Electric motor clutch 2 sensor: Supply
short circuit to B+.

and few days ago i had a super knocking fault on cylinder 5 but this code never came up and i have no car logger to read the graphs on it, is there any software i can use other than MHD ?

long story short, after having the super knocking fault I flashed my car back to stock and took it for a spin to see if the problem still occurs on WOT and there was no issue the car ran perfectly smooth and fine.

I need help please

sorry to hear about this OP, I have similar mileage and mods to my car as well but my car never went into limp mode or had cylinder misfires (except one time due to plugs not gapped properly) but I remember I had the same exact transmission shadow code show up and the car ran fine and nothing seemed out of the ordinary in terms of sound and performance.

So I don't know what this code means and after I cleared it, it never showed up again even after going WOT plenty of times since then. I'm curious if anyone knows what OP's shadow code means?

[Widowmaker_f32]

Originally Posted by chinniciF32

sorry to hear about this OP, I have similar mileage and mods to my car as well but my car never went into limp mode or had cylinder misfires (except one time due to plugs not gapped properly) but I remember I had the same exact transmission shadow code show up and the car ran fine and nothing seemed out of the ordinary in terms of sound and performance.

So I don't know what this code means and after I cleared it, it never showed up again even after going WOT plenty of times since then. I'm curious if anyone knows what OP's shadow code means?

I just arrived to the workshop now, my spark plugs were gapped to .22" we re-gapped them to .80" and nothing happened.
what's your gapping number on the spark plugs ?
i have NGK on step colder spark plugs.

[Silverlining_m2]

Originally Posted by Widowmaker_f32

I just arrived to the workshop now, my spark plugs were gapped to .22" we re-gapped them to .80" and nothing happened.
what's your gapping number on the spark plugs ?
i have NGK on step colder spark plugs.

I run oem bosche plugs at standard .30 gap on stage 2 and have no issues. It's been discussed here a lot of times but I have read that unless you're having issues at stock gap/plugs, then you should stay with them. A lot of people seem to have rougher idle with the ngk 1 step colder plugs. For my bm3 tune I ALWAYS run better gas than my tune calls for. It's stage 2 91 oct, and I put 93 oct in it. Keeps my timing way cleaner than when I ran the 93 oct tune.

Maybe try regular plugs and better gas? Might help any knocking I think. I'm no expert though

[chinniciF32]

Originally Posted by f32spaceship

I run oem bosche plugs at standard .30 gap on stage 2 and have no issues. It's been discussed here a lot of times but I have read that unless you're having issues at stock gap/plugs, then you should stay with them. A lot of people seem to have rougher idle with the ngk 1 step colder plugs. For my bm3 tune I ALWAYS run better gas than my tune calls for. It's stage 2 91 oct, and I put 93 oct in it. Keeps my timing way cleaner than when I ran the 93 oct tune.

Maybe try regular plugs and better gas? Might help any knocking I think. I'm no expert though

this ^, plenty of people run stock plugs at stock gap with no issues at fbo stage 2, from what i've read its usually the people with higher whp number with upgraded turbos and hpfp's, wmi etc. who run colder plugs, I wouldnt run the ngk's at your power level just go back to the stock bosch one's unless those gave you trouble

[thejeremyman9]

Yes, stock plugs stock gap. Don't fall into the NGK trap just because you read it online on the forums or from BM3. Only if you have issues should you go to colder plugs and/or smaller gap.

[Widowmaker_f32]

So I'm still having troubles to fix the car, it's showing 0 fault codes on DME, changed the vanos solenoids double checked the ignition coils, spark plugs, and the fuel injectors and still having a slight white smoke smelling like unburnt fuel.
We recently change the crankcase vent valve and checked for dirty sensors but we're at a dead end.
Tomorrow we'll be changing the valve cover gasket and hopefully we'll get to the issue at some point. The car is giving several misfires and shaking all around but with no check engine/drivetrain light or pop up. It's been 3 days now, i'm on the edge of losing my mind, and the thing is that my car is being fixed by the dealership with no warranty.

[ctt300]

I say its either a vacuum leak somewhere and they can smoke test for that to see the leak's source or it is an electrical connector that is loose or a short somewhere. Check fuses -1 fuse box in left side back by firewall, 1 fuse box under glove box/right side under dash, and the last fuse box is in the trunk by the battery.

Maybe a bad EGR valve too.

Actually this may be it: Fuel smell/rough running could be a bad injector(s) if plugs/coils are good as you say they checked.

[Widowmaker_f32]

Originally Posted by ctt300

I say its either a vacuum leak somewhere and they can smoke test for that to see the leak's source or it is an electrical connector that is loose or a short somewhere. Check fuses -1 fuse box in left side back by firewall, 1 fuse box under glove box/right side under dash, and the last fuse box is in the trunk by the battery.

Maybe a bad EGR valve too.

Actually this may be it: Fuel smell/rough running could be a bad injector(s) if plugs/coils are good as you say they checked.

we did the smoke test and there is no leak, my ignition coils and spark plugs were recently installed and i've been waiting for them to arrive since last october from NP Boosted, but we've changed them and we installed OEM ones and nothing yet.
i'll make sure to check the fuse boxes tomorrow.

[thejeremyman9]

Its unfortunate that its at the dealer and they seem to be throwing parts at it without doing any real diagnosis. I would say that checking injectors is a logical next step, especially if it seems to be running rich.

[Widowmaker_f32]

Originally Posted by thejeremyman9

Its unfortunate that its at the dealer and they seem to be throwing parts at it without doing any real diagnosis. I would say that checking injectors is a logical next step, especially if it seems to be running rich.

I got a call earlier this morning, I'm speechless
here's some pictures attached below:

[Widowmaker_f32]

I don't know if the photos were sent so i'm trying again...

[chinniciF32]

Originally Posted by Widowmaker_f32

I don't know if the photos were sent so i'm trying again...

damn man that doesn't look good, what did they actually say? did they give you an estimate or anything? what caused the leak?

[thejeremyman9]

Originally Posted by Widowmaker_f32

I don't know if the photos were sent so i'm trying again...

Sooo, fuel in the oil from a leaky injector, or water in the oil from head gasket?

If you caught it early enough before you lost oil pressure the bottom end might be OK.

[Widowmaker_f32]

Originally Posted by chinniciF32

damn man that doesn't look good, what did they actually say? did they give you an estimate or anything? what caused the leak?

None actually they said the cylinder head gasket was loose... they tried fixing it but ended up having the engine jammed after multiple attempt to start the car, they said i should get a new motor and that re-building the engine especially the N55s is not a rebuildable engine and I might get into other problems later maybe in 5k miles or 100k miles. It's like gambling.
So waiting for tomorrow they should get the engine out of the car to precisely specify to problem.

[Widowmaker_f32]

Originally Posted by thejeremyman9

Sooo, fuel in the oil from a leaky injector, or water in the oil from head gasket?

If you caught it early enough before you lost oil pressure the bottom end might be OK.

What's driving me crazy is that the day before i took it to the workshop, it was a sunday morning and we went out for a ride with my friends, it was a 6 hours drive, I HAD 0 PROBLEMS with the car, she ran smooth asf literally nothing.
On monday, i was heading to work, sport+ 2nd gear WOT i heard sounds like cutoff coming out from the exhaust it wasn't the first time i hear it, suddenly it went in safe mode and started shaking.
Arrived at the dealership they took it for a spin and tried to get codes off, it gave 0 faults ECU/TCU. got into the car to get my phone and saw that the water level was below minimum.
after refilling it and started compressing the radiator bottle there was no leak, and that's when i said oh F.
I talked to the engineer there and told him if there's no leak under the car, so probably the water is going into the engine or in the transmission, he ignored everything i said.
later that day they sent me these pictures the ones attached earlier before.

[Widowmaker_f32]

my engine is out, the first cylinder block is cracked
attached:

[thejeremyman9]

Do you have any WOT logs from the tune you were running? And what fuel are you using?

There was another person in Lebanon that blew up (broke a piston) in a 328, so a different motor, but the concensus was that it was from knocking on bad quality fuel. I wonder if yours could have been something similar.

[Widowmaker_f32]

Originally Posted by thejeremyman9

Do you have any WOT logs from the tune you were running? And what fuel are you using?

There was another person in Lebanon that blew up (broke a piston) in a 328, so a different motor, but the concensus was that it was from knocking on bad quality fuel. I wonder if yours could have been something similar.

yes, check your inbox. Sent you the logs

[thejeremyman9]

Originally Posted by Widowmaker_f32

yes, check your inbox. Sent you the logs

Yeah i took a quick look. I didnt see major timing corrections or knock.

Also didn't realize you weren't N55.

[Widowmaker_f32]

Originally Posted by thejeremyman9

Yeah i took a quick look. I didnt see major timing corrections or knock.

Also didn't realize you weren't N55.

The mechanic said something about lambda AFR and there was excessive fuel in the cylinders.
What about the N55 ? didn't get it.

[thejeremyman9]

Originally Posted by Widowmaker_f32

The mechanic said something about lambda AFR and there was excessive fuel in the cylinders.
What about the N55 ? didn't get it.

This is the N55 section and the log you posted looked to be for a 4cyl engine, i.e., not a N55.