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To spend or not? '11 335is
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04-19-2021, 05:09 PM | #1 |
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To spend or not? '11 335is
Hello - long time lurker, first time poster here. I have a 2011 335is 'vert (DCT) with 114k mi on it (picked it up at 107k). Bought it with both turbos replaced and oil pan cover / gaskets but hitting some serious work now.
Took it to an Indy for eval and was told I need to replace: - FT control arms - shocks all around - some misc coolant etc - service DCT I'm at an impasse. I love this car, and am thinking of doing m3 control arms, Bilstein B12 kit (greater comfort than OEM sport suspension, better handling), DCT service, new tires (non-RFT either DWS06 or PS4S in wider sizes), some misc service, and FBO + oil catch can. I had originally budgeted $5k for some combination of this, but it's coming out to an easy $10k+. Any advice on how to approach this? I've also attached a screenshot of the spreadsheet with parts. Any advice would be very appreciated!
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2011 335is (stock)
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04-19-2021, 05:13 PM | #2 |
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You could save a good chunk of change if you do some of that stuff on your own (if you have room)
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04-19-2021, 05:17 PM | #3 |
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I got new rotors / pads and am changing those in a friend's garage, but frankly I don't trust myself to DIY other mission critical and complex systems (also don't have the space or tools to do so). Definitely open to it, but don't want to break my car and cause 5x the spend!
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04-19-2021, 05:24 PM | #4 |
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Could do Solo-Werks S1 coilovers instead @ $600. I really like mine. Even wrote a review thread on them. Don't necessarily need the m3 control arms. Just do a bushing kit.
Just tossin out ideas... |
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04-19-2021, 05:36 PM | #5 |
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Rear M3 arms are definitely unnecessary, save a few hundred there. You seem to have itemized sets of both Michelin and Conti tires but I'm assuming you're only picking one, so that'll reduce your total by 12-1600. Same story with the two DCT service kits, you'll only use one or the other. I've heard fairly mediocre things about the whiteline inserts, personally I'd skip for now and install the more critical items before deciding if I want to upgrade subframe bushings in some way.
Between these items I listed, you're down over $2k off your total cost putting you within budget.
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2013 335is Mineral/Coral - DR 6466 - DR Mani - PI - Motiv FF - Dodson Clutches - OEM CF Roof - M3 GTS DCT/LSD/DS/Halfshafts/Suspension/Subframe/Brakes/Chassis Bracing F+R - DEFIV Diff Brace - 437M/R888R
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04-19-2021, 05:46 PM | #6 | |
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You should do a RB upgraded PCV valve & cap. The labor is what's costing you. You are better off with 7" ARM FMIC The PILOT SPORT ALL SEASON 4 are much better tires than the Continental DWS 06. The bilstein b12 kit will lower the car maybe up to 1/2" lower than stock. 265 width is probably out if you go that route. |
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04-19-2021, 05:51 PM | #7 |
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Strut bearings?
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04-19-2021, 05:53 PM | #8 | |
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04-19-2021, 05:55 PM | #10 | |
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These will fit. I have them for 3 years now. No issues. https://mmp-e.com/products/3-catless...2008-2009-2010 |
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04-19-2021, 06:20 PM | #11 |
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Thank you all for the advice! Super helpful.
The subtotal on the spreadsheet reflects a sumIF (for parts that also have labor quoted, plus the DWS). Labor quoted from a shop in the bay area, believe it or not half of what another Indy quoted me. I'll for sure do the comprehensive DCT service given mileage, likely stick with just front control arms. The solo-werks s1 look great but doesn't look like they're compatible with e93 - will call and ask to confirm. Leaning towards a 5" FMIC since I'm not planning on tuning right now, and if I do will be very light. One other q - I'm currently planning on replacing my shock mounts etc - is that needed, or can I get away with keeping my old ones? |
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04-19-2021, 06:38 PM | #12 | |
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OP to your question above definitely replace shock mounts
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2013 335is Mineral/Coral - DR 6466 - DR Mani - PI - Motiv FF - Dodson Clutches - OEM CF Roof - M3 GTS DCT/LSD/DS/Halfshafts/Suspension/Subframe/Brakes/Chassis Bracing F+R - DEFIV Diff Brace - 437M/R888R
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04-19-2021, 07:05 PM | #13 | |
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The b12 kit has the strut mounts built into the front struts. So, you only need strut bearings & maybe rubber spring mounts for the front. You may find when you get in there, you will need new rubber spring mounts for the rear. |
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04-19-2021, 08:16 PM | #15 |
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I did my own struts in the driveway FWIW. I'd call myself an advanced DIYer. I have actually built engines before but now my tool kit is pretty basic. Kind of in the same position as you, really - my rationale is though for what it'll cost to fix my car up, I can't purchase anything newer that I'd want to drive. It's in the shop now getting some other stuff done (OFHG, battery, regular service) and I'm looking into getting a new clutch as well so I can run a tune again.
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04-19-2021, 08:42 PM | #16 |
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A lot of maintenance seems more formidable than it really is. Like springs/struts and control arms sounds intimidating but it's really just a few hex bolts and a torx bolt or two on each corner
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04-19-2021, 09:23 PM | #17 |
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You never explained what you wanted the car for. Is it a daily driver, or a weekender to go carving up canyons in? Either way, I would suggest tackling the projects in pieces, starting with your basic maintenance, before the fun stuff. The DCT and brake services are smart, and followed by your tires. You should feel immediate improvement with the last two items. What about a brake fluid exchange? Do you have previous owner's service records?
The walnut blast should be done in conjunction with the oil catch can, as they are complimentary services. The BMS is an excellent choice, as is the Mishimoto. Just know that you can get a knock-off for both on Amazon for <$50. $490 for a walnut blast seems like a very reasonable price, especially in your area. I did mine at home recently, and noticed immediate improvement in response and gas mileage. WRT your suspension, unless it is totally shot, do you really feel the need for all those upgrades? In interest of full disclosure, I am replacing my M3 suspension soon since the bushings are worn after 101K...not a "must have", but a "need to do at some point". FWIW, I am just coming off a set of Michelin PS A/S3+ and changing over to the Conti DWS06. I was looking though my past maintenance paperwork the other night, and it seems that a previous version of the Conti's I had lasted about 5K more miles that the Michelins. I don't recall if one performed "better" than the other, but the Conti's were less expensive. Given that, and their slightly better tread wear, I'd go with the Conti's. The Michelin price on your spreadsheet seems rather high. Take care of your car's basic, routine maintenance first, and it will last you a long time. It can easily last 3-4 times your mileage if maintained.
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BMW: Doing Amazing(ly cheap) Things With Plastic (crap) Since the E90...
Last edited by E93Dude; 04-20-2021 at 12:05 AM.. |
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04-19-2021, 09:27 PM | #18 |
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I'd skip the BMS catch can. If you're going to get one, get the RB external PCV and Mishimoto can they suggest. This won't save you any money, the parts are more expensive, but you'll get more benefit from it. This is also a pretty easy DIY, so you can save there.
You can also buy the tools and supplies for the walnut blast yourself and DIY that, too. It's doable for about 1/4 of that quote. Sell the tools after you're done if you don't want to deal with storing them. The FMIC is also an easy DIY, especially the 5" since it doesn't require any trimming. Tons of YT videos on that. Last edited by Emilime75; 04-19-2021 at 09:33 PM.. |
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04-19-2021, 11:09 PM | #19 |
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Thank you all so much! This incredible community is such a benefit for E9X ownership and novices getting into it.
@E93Dude, thank you - brake fluid is good with low moisture, and agree with your point on getting the basics done before the "fun" stuff. This car is my DD but I frequently hit the backroads and road trips in it. Suspension isn't completely shot, but both ft/rr shocks are leaking and front control arms are slightly warped so definitely a nearer-term item if not immediate (huge CLUNKs over even minor potholes). Brakes, DCT service, and tires first sound like a great starting point. Appreciate all of the guidance from everyone here, and definitely more open to at least attempting to DIY some of the more approachable items here as I tackle them. |
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04-20-2021, 12:08 AM | #20 | |
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BMW: Doing Amazing(ly cheap) Things With Plastic (crap) Since the E90...
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04-20-2021, 01:43 AM | #21 | |
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This caught my eye too, I'm not too in tune with Michelin's prices but just today I paid 1300 for a full set of 19" Toyo R888R's and those are definitely on the pricy side.
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Also, OP, what part of the Bay are you in? We're at least semi-local and I can recommend shops if you need.
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2013 335is Mineral/Coral - DR 6466 - DR Mani - PI - Motiv FF - Dodson Clutches - OEM CF Roof - M3 GTS DCT/LSD/DS/Halfshafts/Suspension/Subframe/Brakes/Chassis Bracing F+R - DEFIV Diff Brace - 437M/R888R
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04-20-2021, 02:49 AM | #22 |
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Yeah the michelins are pricey for sure. These are the pilot sport 4S's which seem to be the most expensive summer tires I've come across, but everyone swears by their performance so wanted to entertain the thought. This is also from America's Tire and includes their tire certificate/warranty (saved me a few times already, replaced two pzero RFTs for free with 0 hassle). Def going to look into DIY walnut blasting - seems intimidating but if you're careful doesn't seem terribly hard.
I'm in the East Bay but no issues in going to other parts of the Bay! Would love shop recs! GAS in Berkeley is incredible but very expensive (maybe one day!), and have also talked to BimmerGuys out in Castro Valley, who are great and reasonable - labor quotes are from them. |
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