[Static667]

Trying to decide on what to replace first. I have a 2017 M2 running Dinan stage 4 and the charge pipe, turbo inlet, and turbo out pipes are all stock. I will be replacing all of them, I'm just curious as to where I should start.

I'm thinking about going with VRSF for the charge pipe, Burger for the inlet, and FTP for the boost pipe. I am open to suggestions on the brands as well.

[AmuroRay]

Originally Posted by Static667

Trying to decide on what to replace first. I have a 2017 M2 running Dinan stage 4 and the charge pipe, turbo inlet, and turbo out pipes are all stock. I will be replacing all of them, I'm just curious as to where I should start.

I'm thinking about going with VRSF for the charge pipe, Burger for the inlet, and FTP for the boost pipe. I am open to suggestions on the brands as well.

What intercooler?

Any particular reason you named the Burger inlet? The MST (and possibly CTS) inlet have proven gains - That would be my vote. Pure Turbos inlet also works as well, but I think thejeremyman9 and ozymandias435 tested both, and came to the conclusion that the MST offers the largest diameter, and some quantifiable gains (though not massive)

I found nothing on the Burger unit.

If you're doing a Boost pipe (which I'm not sure it's necessary to replace) you can just do the complete chargepipe and boost pipe combination from FTP.

[mike@x-ph.com]

start with the charge pipe, then inlet and outlet. Im assuming you already have an intercooler. If not, that's a priority.

We offer a large selection of products , let me know if i can help

[Static667]

Originally Posted by AmuroRay

What intercooler?

Any particular reason you named the Burger inlet? The MST (and possibly CTS) inlet have proven gains - That would be my vote. Pure Turbos inlet also works as well, but I think thejeremyman9 and ozymandias435 tested both, and came to the conclusion that the MST offers the largest diameter, and some quantifiable gains (though not massive)

I found nothing on the Burger unit.

If you're doing a Boost pipe (which I'm not sure it's necessary to replace) you can just do the complete chargepipe and boost pipe combination from FTP.

I have the Dinan intercooler. I just named the Burger after some base level looking. I will consider the MST and possibly the FTP set.

[Static667]

Originally Posted by mike@x-ph.com

start with the charge pipe, then inlet and outlet. Im assuming you already have an intercooler. If not, that's a priority.

We offer a large selection of products , let me know if i can help

I have the Dinan two core intercooler. I have been looking at your site for parts ideas.

This set doesn't specifically say it works on the M2, will it fit?

[mike@x-ph.com]

Originally Posted by Static667

I have the Dinan two core intercooler. I have been looking at your site for parts ideas.

This set doesn't specifically say it works on the M2, will it fit?

Hi,
yes it does.

[Sundinisagod]

Is the turbo outlet and boost pipe the same thing?

[3t3p]

Originally Posted by Sundinisagod

Is the turbo outlet and boost pipe the same thing?

Turbo inlet takes air from the air intake into the compressor wheel of the turbo.

Boost pipe takes compressed air from the turbo to the intercooler.

[Static667]

VRSF charge pipe installed yesterday. It took way longer than it should have. It seems the VRSF pipe and Dinan FMIC didn't wanna get along. The tolerances were very close, which is a good thing, and it took a lot of work to get the pipe to snap into place. I had to pull the bottom bolt from the AC comp to get things to line up and use a pry bar to get it to click in. I couldn't get enough muscle on it otherwise. The bolt went back in the comp afterwords. The whole job was way more involved than it should have been. I would have dropped the FMIC if it didn't involve completely removing the bumper cover and the bumper itself, too.

But, I can see the improvement. Throttle response is better and it feels a little quicker. The larger, smoother bore makes a real difference. Pain is the ass, neck, lower back, shoulder, and wrist? Yes. Worth it? Yes.

[vrooooom]

Usually the FMIC doesnt require removal of the bumper, so i read. Is it bec of your type of FMIC?

Good call on the charge pipe first. You don't want that blowing up on you.

So installing the CP can be done w/o removal of the FMIC.

[McGary911]

You def don't have to remove the bumper to drop the FMIC. I did my VRSF charge pipe last month and dropped it without doing the bumper. It's like 2 bolts, 2 clips and out it comes.

Getting it back in can be tricky with the new charge pipe in place. There's a hard line on the driver's side corner of where the FMIC goes that can be a pain to work around.

The pipe is a really nice piece.

[EDWYER]

CP.

[vrooooom]

Yeah I had a bit of alignment issue with reinstalling my FMIC also on the driver’s side.

[///M TOWN]

Originally Posted by McGary911

You def don't have to remove the bumper to drop the FMIC. I did my VRSF charge pipe last month and dropped it without doing the bumper. It's like 2 bolts, 2 clips and out it comes.

Getting it back in can be tricky with the new charge pipe in place. There's a hard line on the driver's side corner of where the FMIC goes that can be a pain to work around.

The pipe is a really nice piece.

Did you do it on jack stands or on a lift ⁉️

I have time to kill waiting for my rear tires so I'm installing one while I wait

[F87source]

Originally Posted by ///M TOWN

Did you do it on jack stands or on a lift ⁉️

I have time to kill waiting for my rear tires so I'm installing one while I wait

You can do it on jack stands, I pulled my entire intercooler and fitted the bms one last year on a ramp (about the same height as a jack stand). It is tight but doable.

I did the pure option 1 inlet, and GFB dv+ too.

[///M TOWN]

Originally Posted by F87source

You can do it on jack stands, I pulled my entire intercooler and fitted the bms one last year on a ramp (about the same height as a jack stand). It is tight but doable.

I did the pure option 1 inlet, and GFB dv+ too.

Thanks for jumping in, I appreciate the input ‼️

Do you think I can install the DV without removing the turbo inlet at the same time ⁉️

What was your reasoning for going with the GFB+ vs TurboSmart, something about compatibility with BMWs coding ⁉️

[F87source]

Originally Posted by ///M TOWN

Thanks for jumping in ‼️

Do you think I can do the DV without doing the turbo inlet at the same time ⁉️

What was your reasoning for sticking with the GFB+ ⁉️ Something about Compatibility with BMWs coding ⁉️

NP

You can keep the stock turbo inlet with the GFB dv+ no problem, but you should remove it to get more space to access the diverter valve area otherwise you probably can't remove it. You also need a ball end hex to get enough angle on the top bolt by the oil pipe.


Reasons for the GFB:

1) full metal construction so it is insanely durable.

2) The design of the piston allows boost to be transferred to the other side allowing for the piston to in a sense hold itself shut when the plunger is in place (as dictated by the ecu), so it could theoretically hold an insane amount of boost where the engine would blow up before the diverter valve piston failed.

3) It replaces the weaker part of the factory diverter valve with an upgraded piece while keeping the near bullet proof reliability pierburg magnetic solenoid part. So you are fixing what needs to be fixed while keeping the good parts.

4) GFB upgraded the dv+ recently with a new plunger spring so it will never generate codes or CEL lights again. The reason why it did before was the plunger spring was too long and resulted in the solenoid not being able to magnetize the plunger and pull it back. This has been addressed and is no longer an issue.

5) It is alot cheaper than the turbo smart, I heard the turbo smart offers a bit better WGDC reduction vs. the GFB dv+ but I doubt the difference is big enough to warrant the price increase. The only time I feel like the turbo smart is worth the upgrade is if you go with the vent to atmosphere version to get that blow of valve noise, but since I hate that noise I would have went with the plumb back model which is the same way the gfb valve operates so why spend extra money on something that might not yield a significant gain/improvement.

6) No re-oiling needed. This is a misconception commonly brought up about this valve, I talked to the engineer at GFB and he told me that on bmws like the n55 the pcv vapors were enough to lubricate the valve. The only reason why oil is needed is on some cars that use the same diverter valve the pcv tract is so dirty it can cause clogs (VW's generate so much soot it can clog these valves) so the recommendations for reoiling mainly pertains to vw/audi. These valves can technically operate dry but a bit of oil helps the gliding and for any debris that may get in there. But for the bmw n55 (my divereter valve area was pretty clean so I don't forsee any debris issues) these things don't need to be reoiled, but if you want every time you service your coolant you could always remove it and give it a reoil.

7) No compressor surge, I have talked to a few turbo smart owners and they have reported some light compressor surge on lift off. This isn't as bad as high load compressor surge, but still not desirable imo. So again this is why I like the dv+ because for me there has been no audible compressor surge from inside of the car (would have to be pretty loud for that to occur and that is imo not a great sign, the turbo smart owners have told me they can hear their surge in car with a stock intake that is suppsoed to dampen the intake sounds) and no compressor surge when the hood is open and someone is revving it for me to listen.

[///M TOWN]

Originally Posted by F87source

NP

You can keep the stock turbo inlet with the GFB dv+ no problem, but you should remove it to get more space to access the diverter valve area otherwise you probably can't remove it. You also need a ball end hex to get enough angle on the top bolt by the oil pipe.


Reasons for the GFB:

1) full metal construction so it is insanely durable.

2) The design of the piston allows boost to be transferred to the other side allowing for the piston to in a sense hold itself shut when the plunger is in place (as dictated by the ecu), so it could theoretically hold an insane amount of boost where the engine would blow up before the diverter valve piston failed.

3) It replaces the weaker part of the factory diverter valve with an upgraded piece while keeping the near bullet proof reliability pierburg magnetic solenoid part. So you are fixing what needs to be fixed while keeping the good parts.

4) GFB upgraded the dv+ recently with a new plunger spring so it will never generate codes or CEL lights again. The reason why it did before was the plunger spring was too long and resulted in the solenoid not being able to magnetize the plunger and pull it back. This has been addressed and is no longer an issue.

5) It is alot cheaper than the turbo smart, I heard the turbo smart offers a bit better WGDC reduction vs. the GFB dv+ but I doubt the difference is big enough to warrant the price increase. The only time I feel like the turbo smart is worth the upgrade is if you go with the vent to atmosphere version to get that blow of valve noise, but since I hate that noise I would have went with the plumb back model which is the same way the gfb valve operates so why spend extra money on something that might not yield a significant gain/improvement.

6) No re-oiling needed. This is a misconception commonly brought up about this valve, I talked to the engineer at GFB and he told me that on bmws like the n55 the pcv vapors were enough to lubricate the valve. The only reason why oil is needed is on some cars that use the same diverter valve the pcv tract is so dirty it can cause clogs (VW's generate so much soot it can clog these valves) so the recommendations for reoiling mainly pertains to vw/audi. These valves can technically operate dry but a bit of oil helps the gliding and for any debris that may get in there. But for the bmw n55 (my divereter valve area was pretty clean so I don't forsee any debris issues) these things don't need to be reoiled, but if you want every time you service your coolant you could always remove it and give it a reoil.

7) No compressor surge, I have talked to a few turbo smart owners and they have reported some light compressor surge on lift off. This isn't as bad as high load compressor surge, but still not desirable imo. So again this is why I like the dv+ because for me there has been no audible compressor surge from inside of the car (would have to be pretty loud for that to occur and that is imo not a great sign, the turbo smart owners have told me they can hear their surge in car with a stock intake that is suppsoed to dampen the intake sounds) and no compressor surge when the hood is open and someone is revving it for me to listen.

Interesting

Thanks for sharing your impressions and insight on the technical data

[F87source]

Originally Posted by ///M TOWN

Interesting

Thanks for sharing your impressions and insight on the technical data

No problem.

[Dj_Quik]

Originally Posted by ///M TOWN

Thanks for jumping in, I appreciate the input ‼️

Do you think I can install the DV without removing the turbo inlet at the same time ⁉️

What was your reasoning for going with the GFB+ vs TurboSmart, something about compatibility with BMWs coding ⁉️

I just installed the turbosmart bov and the turner motorsports turbo inlet pipe couple days ago. Defs better To take off the inlet pipe. Removing it will help you tremendously coz i actually found it easier to install two of the bolts from up top and to get one of the bolts started at the bottom and then tighten all three from the top. Plus, its easier to access the top bolt for the water pump when the inlet is removed

[McGary911]

Originally Posted by F87source

You can do it on jack stands, I pulled my entire intercooler and fitted the bms one last year on a ramp (about the same height as a jack stand). It is tight but doable.

I did the pure option 1 inlet, and GFB dv+ too.

Yep, jack stands on the front jack points gave me plenty of room. Oh, and when you remove the underbody tray get ready for the rain of pebbles and crud that WILL fall on your face.

[F87source]

Originally Posted by McGary911

Yep, jack stands on the front jack points gave me plenty of room. Oh, and when you remove the underbody tray get ready for the rain of pebbles and crud that WILL fall on your face.

So true lol. Safety glasses to protect your eyes, a mask to prevent that cloud of road dust from making your nose and mouth smell and taste like grit.