[platano_4life]

My radiator fan will not turn on I just want to see if it's the fan or something else.
I have a 3 pin connector. 2 thicker wires, and a smaller wire.

[marvinstockman]

Call local library and see if they have a wiring diagram online.

[ryan stewart]

red/black should be power, green should be the tach.

[platano_4life]

Originally Posted by ryan stewart

red/black should be power, green should be the tach.

Do I jump the smaller wire to the power wire?

[ryan stewart]

No Id think just providing power to the red and grounding the black would turn it on. Wiring *looks like* just regular fan wiring. The small wire is just there to tell the controller the fan is running and how fast so it knows its working.

You could hook a multimeter into the thick wires from the car side plug to see if it delivers power with something like the AC on. Or run power to the fan side of those plugs.

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by platano_4life

My radiator fan will not turn on I just want to see if it's the fan or something else.
I have a 3 pin connector. 2 thicker wires, and a smaller wire.

The short answer to your question is: "You DON'T".

The E-Fan has a built-in Electronic Control. If you had INPA/ISTA, you could "Activate" the fan by sending a speed
signal via the Black/Blue wire to Pin #4 of Connector X1797. HOWEVER, you CANNOT get the Fan to run by applying
12V+ & Ground to the two large wires, Red/Blue at Pin#2 & Brown at Pin #1. If the fan electronics are NOT already
damaged, you would likely damage them by applying 12V+ to Pin #4 (the small wire).

See the attached ISTA ScreenPrints showing the Fan Wiring Diagram, Power supply, Lines ID, & X1797 Connector View.
If you do NOT have INPA/ISTA or something that can "Activate" the E-Fan, about all you can do is test as follows:
1) With engine running, turn on A/C Compressor. At stationary idle, fan should operate at slower speed
within 30 seconds of turning on A/C.
2) If NO E-Fan operation, turn engine OFF, and disconnect Connector X1797 from the Fan Unit.
3) With Ignition ON (engine still OFF), using Multimeter, measure Voltage in Reference to Chassis Ground at Pin#2, Red/Blue wire.
4) Check for continuity to Ground at Pin #1, Brown wire.
5) Test for Voltage at Pin #4, Black/Blue small wire, in reference to chassis ground:

a) with A/C Compressor (Snowflake) OFF but engine running;
b) with A/C Compressor ON and engine running.

Please let us know your results.
George

[platano_4life]

Originally Posted by gbalthrop

The short answer to your question is: "You DON'T".

The E-Fan has a built-in Electronic Control. If you had INPA/ISTA, you could "Activate" the fan by sending a speed
signal via the Black/Blue wire to Pin #4 of Connector X1797. HOWEVER, you CANNOT get the Fan to run by applying
12V+ & Ground to the two large wires, Red/Blue at Pin#2 & Brown at Pin #1. If the fan electronics are NOT already
damaged, you would likely damage them by applying 12V+ to Pin #4 (the small wire).

See the attached ISTA ScreenPrints showing the Fan Wiring Diagram, Power supply, Lines ID, & X1797 Connector View.
If you do NOT have INPA/ISTA or something that can "Activate" the E-Fan, about all you can do is test as follows:
1) With engine running, turn on A/C Compressor. At stationary idle, fan should operate at slower speed
within 30 seconds of turning on A/C.
2) If NO E-Fan operation, turn engine OFF, and disconnect Connector X1797 from the Fan Unit.
3) With Ignition ON (engine still OFF), using Multimeter, measure Voltage in Reference to Chassis Ground at Pin#2, Red/Blue wire.
4) Check for continuity to Ground at Pin #1, Brown wire.
5) Test for Voltage at Pin #4, Black/Blue small wire, in reference to chassis ground:

a) with A/C Compressor (Snowflake) OFF but engine running;
b) with A/C Compressor ON and engine running.

Please let us know your results.
George

The fan doesn't operate with ac button.
I did as you said and with the engine off and there is no voltage at the red and blue wire. Brown ground wire seems fine.
The small black and blue wire has 4.20 volts both with the AC off and on.

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by platano_4life

The fan doesn't operate with ac button.
I did as you said and with the engine off and
there is no voltage at the red and blue wire. Brown ground wire seems fine. The small black
and blue wire has 4.20 volts both with the AC off and on.

If there is no voltage at Socket #2 (Red/Blue wire) of X1797 with Ignition ON, then check fuse F92 to see if it is blown.
If it is intact (test for electrical continuity), then test for voltage IN/OUT at the Cut-Out Relay, K9137.

ISTA shows TWO different locations for that relay. I would FIRST check the E-box location shown in attached diagram.
You can bench-test a plug-in relay by applying 9V or 12V across pins 85 & 86 and see if contacts close/click, connecting
pins 30 & 87 of the relay (which you can test for continuity, as well as listen for click.
You can apply a jumper to the sockets of the K9137 Relay Connector (X14188) to connect the power from F92
to the Red/Blue wire going to the Fan. The wiring diagram does NOT provide pin numbers for those 2 sockets, so you
will have to test electrically for Voltage in, and Continuity of Red/Blue wire to X1797/2 at the Fan. The 400 Watt Fan
wiring diagram shows F92 Power supply as X14188/3 and output to E-Fan as X14188/5, so I would test for that FIRST.

That "By-passes" the relay and creates a "hard-wired" power supply to E-Fan X1797.
Do NOT leave that wire in place. It is ONLY for test purposes. With jumper in place, test for voltage at X1797/2, Red/Blue wire.
Please let us know what you find,
George

[platano_4life]

Originally Posted by gbalthrop

If there is no voltage at Socket #2 (Red/Blue wire) of X1797 with Ignition ON, then check fuse F92 to see if it is blown.
If it is intact (test for electrical continuity), then test for voltage IN/OUT at the Cut-Out Relay, K9137.

ISTA shows TWO different locations for that relay. I would FIRST check the E-box location shown in attached diagram.
You can bench-test a plug-in relay by applying 9V or 12V across pins 85 & 86 and see if contacts close/click, connecting
pins 30 & 87 of the relay (which you can test for continuity, as well as listen for click.
You can apply a jumper to the sockets of the K9137 Relay Connector (X14188) to connect the power from F92
to the Red/Blue wire going to the Fan. The wiring diagram does NOT provide pin numbers for those 2 sockets, so you
will have to test electrically for Voltage in, and Continuity of Red/Blue wire to X1797/2 at the Fan. The 400 Watt Fan
wiring diagram shows F92 Power supply as X14188/3 and output to E-Fan as X14188/5, so I would test for that FIRST.

That "By-passes" the relay and creates a "hard-wired" power supply to E-Fan X1797.
Do NOT leave that wire in place. It is ONLY for test purposes. With jumper in place, test for voltage at X1797/2, Red/Blue wire.
Please let us know what you find,
George

Thanks a ton for the help! I will come back to you in a couple of hours and let you know what I find.

[platano_4life]

Originally Posted by gbalthrop

If there is no voltage at Socket #2 (Red/Blue wire) of X1797 with Ignition ON, then check fuse F92 to see if it is blown.
If it is intact (test for electrical continuity), then test for voltage IN/OUT at the Cut-Out Relay, K9137.

ISTA shows TWO different locations for that relay. I would FIRST check the E-box location shown in attached diagram.
You can bench-test a plug-in relay by applying 9V or 12V across pins 85 & 86 and see if contacts close/click, connecting
pins 30 & 87 of the relay (which you can test for continuity, as well as listen for click.
You can apply a jumper to the sockets of the K9137 Relay Connector (X14188) to connect the power from F92
to the Red/Blue wire going to the Fan. The wiring diagram does NOT provide pin numbers for those 2 sockets, so you
will have to test electrically for Voltage in, and Continuity of Red/Blue wire to X1797/2 at the Fan. The 400 Watt Fan
wiring diagram shows F92 Power supply as X14188/3 and output to E-Fan as X14188/5, so I would test for that FIRST.

That "By-passes" the relay and creates a "hard-wired" power supply to E-Fan X1797.
Do NOT leave that wire in place. It is ONLY for test purposes. With jumper in place, test for voltage at X1797/2, Red/Blue wire.
Please let us know what you find,
George

Alright, I found the relay. I jumped it like you said and the fans kicked on. I went down the street and replaced it immediately.
I recently bought this car with to an over heating issue. Fans work now, all that's left to tackle is the water pump. I called the man i bought it from this morning and he says its new but it's not bleeding when I do the procedure.

[e91Owner]

If the pump isn't working, you will have at the very least a 2E85 code. If there aren't any 2E8x codes, it is likely that what you're doing for the bleed procedure is off.

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by platano_4life

... I recently bought this car with to an over heating issue. Fans work now, all that's left to tackle
is the water pump. I called the man i bought it from this morning and he says its new but it's not bleeding when I do the procedure.

To maintain a 14-year-old car yourself (you'll go "broke" if you pay others), you need to download/ install INPA/ISTA,
if you have a Windows Laptop. Only cost is $45 BimmerGeeks K+DCAN Cable to connect Laptop to OBD II Socket.
See attached "E9x References, 210523 Revision" for links to Bentley Manual, BMW Fault Code Lookup, BimmerGeeks
Pro K+DCAN Cable, INPA (BMW Standard Tools), E89 Datens (Data files for E9x models), and ISTA (and MORE).

Time to learn how the Coolant Pump is wired. ISTA Wiring Diagram is attached for 2008 & later models.
Note there are TWO (2) fuses:
1) F37 is a 30-Amp fuse powered when DME Relay (basically, Ignition) is on. It powers the Pump Control circuit.
2) F07 (In the E-box, under hood) is 50-Amp, & powers the Pump when it is switched on by the control circuit.

Note the "87" over the F37 fuse symbol; that means KL87 (Terminal 87) or switched power, so test that with Ignition ON.
The "30" over the F07 fuse symbol means it gets "UN-switched" battery power (Terminal 30/ KL30). Also test Ground.

TESTS:
1) Remove the Splash Shield beneath the pump and disconnect the Pump Connector, X6035.
2) Test for 12V+ at Pin #1 of X6035 (X6035/1), small Orange Wire, with Ignition ON.
3) Test voltage at X6035/2, Violet wire, with Ignition ON. That is Speed signal wire, similar to E-Fan Spd signal.
4) Test for 12V+ at X6035/3, LARGE Red Wire. That is main Power Supply to Pump, Un-switched, from F07.
5) Test for Continuity to Chassis Ground at X6035/4, LARGE Brown Wire.
6) Examine the Coolant Pump and record the BMW Part# of the Pump, as well as the Brand.
7) Record ALL Fault Codes in DME Fault Memory, and if your Scan Tool can read Freeze Frame Data (Snaphot of
Engine conditions at moment Fault Code was saved), record that FF Data as well.

Please let us know what you find,
George

[platano_4life]

Originally Posted by gbalthrop

To maintain a 14-year-old car yourself (you'll go "broke" if you pay others), you need to download/ install INPA/ISTA,
if you have a Windows Laptop. Only cost is $45 BimmerGeeks K+DCAN Cable to connect Laptop to OBD II Socket.
See attached "E9x References, 210523 Revision" for links to Bentley Manual, BMW Fault Code Lookup, BimmerGeeks
Pro K+DCAN Cable, INPA (BMW Standard Tools), E89 Datens (Data files for E9x models), and ISTA (and MORE).

Time to learn how the Coolant Pump is wired. ISTA Wiring Diagram is attached for 2008 & later models.
Note there are TWO (2) fuses:
1) F37 is a 30-Amp fuse powered when DME Relay (basically, Ignition) is on. It powers the Pump Control circuit.
2) F07 (In the E-box, under hood) is 50-Amp, & powers the Pump when it is switched on by the control circuit.

Note the "87" over the F37 fuse symbol; that means KL87 (Terminal 87) or switched power, so test that with Ignition ON.
The "30" over the F07 fuse symbol means it gets "UN-switched" battery power (Terminal 30/ KL30). Also test Ground.

TESTS:
1) Remove the Splash Shield beneath the pump and disconnect the Pump Connector, X6035.
2) Test for 12V+ at Pin #1 of X6035 (X6035/1), small Orange Wire, with Ignition ON.
3) Test voltage at X6035/2, Violet wire, with Ignition ON. That is Speed signal wire, similar to E-Fan Spd signal.
4) Test for 12V+ at X6035/3, LARGE Red Wire. That is main Power Supply to Pump, Un-switched, from F07.
5) Test for Continuity to Chassis Ground at X6035/4, LARGE Brown Wire.
6) Examine the Coolant Pump and record the BMW Part# of the Pump, as well as the Brand.
7) Record ALL Fault Codes in DME Fault Memory, and if your Scan Tool can read Freeze Frame Data (Snaphot of
Engine conditions at moment Fault Code was saved), record that FF Data as well.

Please let us know what you find,
George

I was under the car yesterday and all I was able to do was test the power wire before it started to rain and I had to quit. I used a test light and there was power. Ill get the car scanned soon but last time I scanned it it didn't have a code for the waterpump. It had a code for the gas pedal. Ill post again later to give you more specifics.

[platano_4life]

Originally Posted by gbalthrop

To maintain a 14-year-old car yourself (you'll go "broke" if you pay others), you need to download/ install INPA/ISTA,
if you have a Windows Laptop. Only cost is $45 BimmerGeeks K+DCAN Cable to connect Laptop to OBD II Socket.
See attached "E9x References, 210523 Revision" for links to Bentley Manual, BMW Fault Code Lookup, BimmerGeeks
Pro K+DCAN Cable, INPA (BMW Standard Tools), E89 Datens (Data files for E9x models), and ISTA (and MORE).

Time to learn how the Coolant Pump is wired. ISTA Wiring Diagram is attached for 2008 & later models.
Note there are TWO (2) fuses:
1) F37 is a 30-Amp fuse powered when DME Relay (basically, Ignition) is on. It powers the Pump Control circuit.
2) F07 (In the E-box, under hood) is 50-Amp, & powers the Pump when it is switched on by the control circuit.

Note the "87" over the F37 fuse symbol; that means KL87 (Terminal 87) or switched power, so test that with Ignition ON.
The "30" over the F07 fuse symbol means it gets "UN-switched" battery power (Terminal 30/ KL30). Also test Ground.

TESTS:
1) Remove the Splash Shield beneath the pump and disconnect the Pump Connector, X6035.
2) Test for 12V+ at Pin #1 of X6035 (X6035/1), small Orange Wire, with Ignition ON.
3) Test voltage at X6035/2, Violet wire, with Ignition ON. That is Speed signal wire, similar to E-Fan Spd signal.
4) Test for 12V+ at X6035/3, LARGE Red Wire. That is main Power Supply to Pump, Un-switched, from F07.
5) Test for Continuity to Chassis Ground at X6035/4, LARGE Brown Wire.
6) Examine the Coolant Pump and record the BMW Part# of the Pump, as well as the Brand.
7) Record ALL Fault Codes in DME Fault Memory, and if your Scan Tool can read Freeze Frame Data (Snaphot of
Engine conditions at moment Fault Code was saved), record that FF Data as well.

Please let us know what you find,
George

That's a whole lot of resources I plugged in my scanner and got p142e both pending and stored. My buddy has a more legit scanner that picks up more codes.

I cant post pictures here yet so I'll list them. also this is historical data as it was scanned a couple days ago. Since then I've replaced the battery and fixed the fan:

2DEC
Power Management, Battery

2EFE
Electric Fan, Activation

2DEB
Power Management, Vehicle Electrical System

2D1D
Accelerator-Pedal Module, Pedal-Travel Sensor 1, Voltage Supply

2D1E
^ Sensor 2

2D1F
^ Sensor Potentiometer, Signal

29DC
Cylinder Injection Cutout

[platano_4life]

Originally Posted by gbalthrop

To maintain a 14-year-old car yourself (you'll go "broke" if you pay others), you need to download/ install INPA/ISTA,
if you have a Windows Laptop. Only cost is $45 BimmerGeeks K+DCAN Cable to connect Laptop to OBD II Socket.
See attached "E9x References, 210523 Revision" for links to Bentley Manual, BMW Fault Code Lookup, BimmerGeeks
Pro K+DCAN Cable, INPA (BMW Standard Tools), E89 Datens (Data files for E9x models), and ISTA (and MORE).

Time to learn how the Coolant Pump is wired. ISTA Wiring Diagram is attached for 2008 & later models.
Note there are TWO (2) fuses:
1) F37 is a 30-Amp fuse powered when DME Relay (basically, Ignition) is on. It powers the Pump Control circuit.
2) F07 (In the E-box, under hood) is 50-Amp, & powers the Pump when it is switched on by the control circuit.

Note the "87" over the F37 fuse symbol; that means KL87 (Terminal 87) or switched power, so test that with Ignition ON.
The "30" over the F07 fuse symbol means it gets "UN-switched" battery power (Terminal 30/ KL30). Also test Ground.

TESTS:
1) Remove the Splash Shield beneath the pump and disconnect the Pump Connector, X6035.
2) Test for 12V+ at Pin #1 of X6035 (X6035/1), small Orange Wire, with Ignition ON.
3) Test voltage at X6035/2, Violet wire, with Ignition ON. That is Speed signal wire, similar to E-Fan Spd signal.
4) Test for 12V+ at X6035/3, LARGE Red Wire. That is main Power Supply to Pump, Un-switched, from F07.
5) Test for Continuity to Chassis Ground at X6035/4, LARGE Brown Wire.
6) Examine the Coolant Pump and record the BMW Part# of the Pump, as well as the Brand.
7) Record ALL Fault Codes in DME Fault Memory, and if your Scan Tool can read Freeze Frame Data (Snaphot of
Engine conditions at moment Fault Code was saved), record that FF Data as well.

Please let us know what you find,
George

That's a whole lot of resources I plugged in my scanner and got p142e both pending and stored. My buddy has a more legit scanner that picks up more codes.

I cant post pictures here yet so I'll list them. also this is historical data as it was scanned a couple days ago. Since then I've replaced the battery and fixed the fan:

2DEC
Power Management, Battery

2EFE
Electric Fan, Activation

2DEB
Power Management, Vehicle Electrical System

2D1D
Accelerator-Pedal Module, Pedal-Travel Sensor 1, Voltage Supply

2D1E
^ Sensor 2

2D1F
^ Sensor Potentiometer, Signal

29DC
Cylinder Injection Cutout

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by platano_4life

I was under the car yesterday and all I was able to do was test the power wire before it started to rain and I had to quit. I used a test light and there was power. Ill get the car scanned soon but last time I scanned it it didn't have a code for the waterpump. It had a code for the gas pedal. Ill post again later to give you more specifics.

Please take the time to do ALL of the tests described in Post #12. NONE of the codes you listed have anything to do with Coolant Pump operation. The Coolant Pump Codes are 2E81 through 2E85. The 2EFE code is "left over" from the bad Relay that you replaced.

I would suggest recording ALL Fault Codes and any Freeze Frame Data you are able to read, and then CLEARING those codes to see what comes back.

We don't know from the information you have provided whether ANY of the Accelerator Pedal Module Faults are "Currently Present" or NOT. Any faults of that type COULD prevent Activation of the Coolant Pump when attempting to do "Bleed Procedure" by improper Accelerator Pedal Position reported to the DME.

IF you have a Windows Laptop, the CHEAPEST & BEST solution to being able to do COMPLETE E9x Diagnostics is paying $45 for BimmerGeeks K+DCAN Cable and getting their FREE Download of INPA (BMW Standard Tools) & E89 Datens. You can later add ISTA -- also free Download.

INPA (or ISTA) would allow you to monitor/view Coolant Pump speed while engine is running (under DME Control of Pump), OR to "Over-ride" DME control and send "Activation" signal to the Pump using INPA to "Command" operation at various speeds, and to see actual speed attained by pump.

You could also see "Live Data" or Status of Signals received by DME from the Accelerator Pedal Module, with Ignition ON, Engine OFF. Viewing Live Data in that fashion allows you to determine if sensor signals as received by DME are intermittent, totally lacking, implausible, one signal does NOT agree with the other, etc. THAT allows you to diagnose an issue MUCH more accurately than simply reading fault codes and trying to figure out (OFTEN incorrectly ;-) what the code(s) actually mean. Fault Codes should be viewed as the "Starting Point" for other "Diagnostics".

When you are trying to sort a "New-to-You" vehicle with multiple problems, INPA or ISTA is INVALUABLE, and will save you LOTS of time, money & aggravation.
George

[platano_4life]

Originally Posted by gbalthrop

Please take the time to do ALL of the tests described in Post #12. NONE of the codes you listed have anything to do with Coolant Pump operation. The Coolant Pump Codes are 2E81 through 2E85. The 2EFE code is "left over" from the bad Relay that you replaced.

I would suggest recording ALL Fault Codes and any Freeze Frame Data you are able to read, and then CLEARING those codes to see what comes back.

We don't know from the information you have provided whether ANY of the Accelerator Pedal Module Faults are "Currently Present" or NOT. Any faults of that type COULD prevent Activation of the Coolant Pump when attempting to do "Bleed Procedure" by improper Accelerator Pedal Position reported to the DME.

IF you have a Windows Laptop, the CHEAPEST & BEST solution to being able to do COMPLETE E9x Diagnostics is paying $45 for BimmerGeeks K+DCAN Cable and getting their FREE Download of INPA (BMW Standard Tools) & E89 Datens. You can later add ISTA -- also free Download.

INPA (or ISTA) would allow you to monitor/view Coolant Pump speed while engine is running (under DME Control of Pump), OR to "Over-ride" DME control and send "Activation" signal to the Pump using INPA to "Command" operation at various speeds, and to see actual speed attained by pump.

You could also see "Live Data" or Status of Signals received by DME from the Accelerator Pedal Module, with Ignition ON, Engine OFF. Viewing Live Data in that fashion allows you to determine if sensor signals as received by DME are intermittent, totally lacking, implausible, one signal does NOT agree with the other, etc. THAT allows you to diagnose an issue MUCH more accurately than simply reading fault codes and trying to figure out (OFTEN incorrectly ;-) what the code(s) actually mean. Fault Codes should be viewed as the "Starting Point" for other "Diagnostics".

When you are trying to sort a "New-to-You" vehicle with multiple problems, INPA or ISTA is INVALUABLE, and will save you LOTS of time, money & aggravation.
George

Thats amazing I always thought you needed a super expensive scanner to run Diagnostics. Thanks again man. Where did you learn all of this? I just ordered the cable hopefully it gets here soon. My buddy's scan tool has a water pump testing feature. I tried using it to turn the pump on but nothing happened. But the next time I can get the car jacked up and do the other tests is going to be Sunday. I'll definitely check everything out and report back after I've done all of those.

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by platano_4life

Thats amazing I always thought you needed a super expensive scanner to run Diagnostics...

There's NOTHING that is cheap & Perfect -- NO Free Lunch.
INPA is perfect for German-speaking Engineers who have the Module Wiring Diagrams (ISTA or TIS). About the only thing we "Anglo's" can read in INPA is the Menus and the "Numbers".

Fortunately there is Google Translate that does a decent job of translating Technical German to English. Hardest thing for speakers of "English ONLY" is understanding the German Abbreviations (two or three letters) which would be obvious to Germans but NOT to me, and Google Translate offers NO Clues on abbreviations.

Other problem with INPA is that it does NOT come with English "User Manual". I've made my own "Manual" by saving ScreenPrints, in separate Folder for EACH MODULE, of each Menu and what Data is displayed on Each Screen. So if you need help knowing what Screen to View, and HOW to access that screen, or WHAT a particular Data Line/ Label means, just post for help.

See the attached "INPA Tutorial Quickstart" that describes HOW to read Fault Codes in ALL ~ 20 Modules in your vehicle. THAT is ONLY the starting point however, and you have to connect to a particular Module, such as the DME (Engine Control Module) to see Fault Descriptions, Details and Freeze Frame Data, and also to view Live Data (F5 Status), or to do Activations (F6 Activations), such as to command operation of the Coolant Pump.

The WAY you perform similar operations in each module is similar, so once you've got a good general CONCEPT of what it can do, and HOW to Save ScreenPrints and share them on the Forum (to Give/Get Help), it's like having a "FREE Remote Diagnoser".

Once you understand WHAT a particular Value represents (e.g. what Sensor signal it relates to), AND you understand the basics of how a system works, INPA provides much of the data you need to to figure out what to test with your multimeter. Unfortunately you need ISTA (also a free download) to see the "SSP" wiring diagram, or to read the "FUB" Functional Description of HOW a particular system works. For now, to get you started, we can furnish the ISTA wiring diagrams. They are also in the "ELE" section of Bentley, but ISTA is easier to use.

Geeks like me find it rewarding to spend the time learning how things work. YMMV. "Get 'er DONE" types who just want to know what part to replace will NEVER appreciate INPA.
George

[platano_4life]

Originally Posted by gbalthrop

There's NOTHING that is cheap & Perfect -- NO Free Lunch.
INPA is perfect for German-speaking Engineers who have the Module Wiring Diagrams (ISTA or TIS). About the only thing we "Anglo's" can read in INPA is the Menus and the "Numbers".

Fortunately there is Google Translate that does a decent job of translating Technical German to English. Hardest thing for speakers of "English ONLY" is understanding the German Abbreviations (two or three letters) which would be obvious to Germans but NOT to me, and Google Translate offers NO Clues on abbreviations.

Other problem with INPA is that it does NOT come with English "User Manual". I've made my own "Manual" by saving ScreenPrints, in separate Folder for EACH MODULE, of each Menu and what Data is displayed on Each Screen. So if you need help knowing what Screen to View, and HOW to access that screen, or WHAT a particular Data Line/ Label means, just post for help.

See the attached "INPA Tutorial Quickstart" that describes HOW to read Fault Codes in ALL ~ 20 Modules in your vehicle. THAT is ONLY the starting point however, and you have to connect to a particular Module, such as the DME (Engine Control Module) to see Fault Descriptions, Details and Freeze Frame Data, and also to view Live Data (F5 Status), or to do Activations (F6 Activations), such as to command operation of the Coolant Pump.

The WAY you perform similar operations in each module is similar, so once you've got a good general CONCEPT of what it can do, and HOW to Save ScreenPrints and share them on the Forum (to Give/Get Help), it's like having a "FREE Remote Diagnoser".

Once you understand WHAT a particular Value represents (e.g. what Sensor signal it relates to), AND you understand the basics of how a system works, INPA provides much of the data you need to to figure out what to test with your multimeter. Unfortunately you need ISTA (also a free download) to see the "SSP" wiring diagram, or to read the "FUB" Functional Description of HOW a particular system works. For now, to get you started, we can furnish the ISTA wiring diagrams. They are also in the "ELE" section of Bentley, but ISTA is easier to use.

Geeks like me find it rewarding to spend the time learning how things work. YMMV. "Get 'er DONE" types who just want to know what part to replace will NEVER appreciate INPA.
George

So you basically taught yourself huh? That's impressive
Checking the fuses under the hood I only found one fuse and one relay. Why is it that every diagram I look up or video I see shows me a block with 5 fuses and other fuses in the surrounding area?

[platano_4life]

Originally Posted by gbalthrop

There's NOTHING that is cheap & Perfect -- NO Free Lunch.
INPA is perfect for German-speaking Engineers who have the Module Wiring Diagrams (ISTA or TIS). About the only thing we "Anglo's" can read in INPA is the Menus and the "Numbers".

Fortunately there is Google Translate that does a decent job of translating Technical German to English. Hardest thing for speakers of "English ONLY" is understanding the German Abbreviations (two or three letters) which would be obvious to Germans but NOT to me, and Google Translate offers NO Clues on abbreviations.

Other problem with INPA is that it does NOT come with English "User Manual". I've made my own "Manual" by saving ScreenPrints, in separate Folder for EACH MODULE, of each Menu and what Data is displayed on Each Screen. So if you need help knowing what Screen to View, and HOW to access that screen, or WHAT a particular Data Line/ Label means, just post for help.

See the attached "INPA Tutorial Quickstart" that describes HOW to read Fault Codes in ALL ~ 20 Modules in your vehicle. THAT is ONLY the starting point however, and you have to connect to a particular Module, such as the DME (Engine Control Module) to see Fault Descriptions, Details and Freeze Frame Data, and also to view Live Data (F5 Status), or to do Activations (F6 Activations), such as to command operation of the Coolant Pump.

The WAY you perform similar operations in each module is similar, so once you've got a good general CONCEPT of what it can do, and HOW to Save ScreenPrints and share them on the Forum (to Give/Get Help), it's like having a "FREE Remote Diagnoser".

Once you understand WHAT a particular Value represents (e.g. what Sensor signal it relates to), AND you understand the basics of how a system works, INPA provides much of the data you need to to figure out what to test with your multimeter. Unfortunately you need ISTA (also a free download) to see the "SSP" wiring diagram, or to read the "FUB" Functional Description of HOW a particular system works. For now, to get you started, we can furnish the ISTA wiring diagrams. They are also in the "ELE" section of Bentley, but ISTA is easier to use.

Geeks like me find it rewarding to spend the time learning how things work. YMMV. "Get 'er DONE" types who just want to know what part to replace will NEVER appreciate INPA.
George

So I couldn't unplug the wire to the water pump. I have a 335xi so it's a tad bit tight down there. I tried my best to trace the wires to test it from the top of the engine compartment. I found the Violet wire but with it I found 2 small Orange wires. They tested the same at 12 volts and the Violet wire tested between 6.5 - 7 volts. The big red wire is stable at 12 volts. And the ground looks good as well.

[platano_4life]

With all the given voltages should a good pump be running?

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by platano_4life

So you basically taught yourself huh? [INPA taught/teaches me. I just "saved the Screens, and look at the ScreenPrints" when I want to see a Menu, or see what's on a particular screen. ANYONE can do it]... Checking the fuses under the hood I only found one fuse and one relay. Why is it that every diagram I look up or video I see shows me a block with 5 fuses and other fuses in the surrounding area?

Another Reason NOT to rely on videos, as MOST folks who make a video have NOT learned that not ALL BMW's are alike, don't know when the changes occurred, or don't want to take the time to explain it. The JB (Junction Box) Fuse Panel LAYOUT changed 3/1/2007 in the middle of the model run, but fuse numbering, by Function, remained the same, resulting in "scrambled fuse Numbering". Numbering was changed effective 9/1/2007 for 2008 models so that fuse numbers generally increased in order, Left-to-right, top-to-bottom, and remained the same for remainder of E9x run. ALSO, the contents of the E-box were simplified effective 3/1/2007. The ONLY relay you have in the E-box is the Fan Cutout Relay (REMEMBER that little gem from Post #8? ;-)

ONLY fuse you have in the E-box AFAIK is F07 which powers the Coolant Pump. Did you check that Fuse, and also F37 on the JB Fuse Panel. BOTH need to be intact for the Coolant Pump to operate.

Originally Posted by platano_4life

So I couldn't unplug the wire to the water pump. I have a 335xi so it's a tad bit tight down there. I tried my best to trace the wires to test it from the top of the engine compartment. I found the Violet wire but with it I found 2 small Orange wires. They tested the same at 12 volts and the Violet wire tested between 6.5 - 7 volts. The big red wire is stable at 12 volts. And the ground looks good as well. With all the given voltages should a good pump be running?

If the good pump has good fuses, wiring, and CONNECTORS, Yes.
I understand the "cramped quarters" where the 335xi Pump and T-Stat are located, although I have NOT personally done an R&R. HOWEVER, if the connector is difficult to separate, that suggests the pins/ sockets may be corroded, or the pump may be leaking coolant on the connector. Sooner or later, you are going to HAVE to figure out HOW to disconnect X6035 Connector at the Pump.

ONLY reliable way to test the Voltage Supplies (2), Ground, and BSD Speed Signal voltage is AT the Connector. I'm LAZY. IF there were an easier way, I'd try to find it. I can't think of any.

Make sure you are looking at the LARGER Pump 4-pin connector, and NOT the smaller 2-pin T-Stat Connector. If you still have an issue trying to disconnect X6035, post back and ask for help from someone who has DONE that. Some folks have described jacking the car, removing RF wheel and RF Fender Liner to get better access to Pump & T-stat, particularly on x-Drive. That small Orange wire at X6035/1 MAY be the issue.
George