[Eddynandez]

My 2006 BMW 325xi is having a misfire problem.
it's throwing multiple misfire code on all cylinders and it makes the car shake and jerk really bad, this started next day after fixing an antifreeze leak I had for a few weeks.

The weird thing is the misfire goes away after turning the car off and on a few times, sometimes it takes quite a few a tries. However, this is only a temporary fix and the misfire soon returns.

I replaced all spark plugs and problem continued, I was thinking of replacing coils as well but then I decided to try and disconnect the valvetronic motor and proceeded to run the car and it ran smoothly (hesitates a little to start up though).
So now I'm thinking it's the ESS or possibly the valvetronic motor.

Any thoughts on what it could be before I go out and buy anything?

[tlow98]

What codes is it throwing? Code readers are the cheapest best tool you can have

[e90yyc]

Yeah definitely don't guess. As mentioned above, you NEED a code reader. Whether that's a cable and software or something handheld, it'll pay for itself the first time you use it.

[Bmw1939]

Go get a proper BMW scanner. You cant own these cars without one. Otherwise take it to reputable bmw mechanic and have them diagnose it then fix it yourself. Don't tell them you just want a diagnostic obviously.

[Efthreeoh]

I'd go with the ESS, but scan it for codes with a BMW tool. Unplug the ESS and look for oil in the connector.

[Eddynandez2]

Originally Posted by Efthreeoh

I'd go with the ESS, but scan it for codes with a BMW tool. Unplug the ESS and look for oil in the connector.

There wasn't any oil, I ran the car with valvetronic motor disconnected and it ran smoothly but problem persisted when I disconnect the ESS

[Eddynandez2]

Originally Posted by tlow98

What codes is it throwing? Code readers are the cheapest best tool you can have

Couldn't sign into my other account for some reason but here are the codes.

Current Fault Log
------------------
P0300: Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
P0301: Cylinder 1 Misfire Detected
P0302: Cylinder 2 Misfire Detected
P0303: Cylinder 3 Misfire Detected
P0304: Cylinder 4 Misfire Detected
P0305: Cylinder 5 Misfire Detected
P0306: Cylinder 6 Misfire Detected
P1017: Unknown code - More information may be available on the web


Pending Fault Log
------------------
P0341: Camshaft Position Sensor "A" Circuit Range/Performance (Bank 1 or Single

[marvinstockman]

Eddy, I can't answer your big question, but when you turn of the engine and start it up again, the computer allows the cylinders to run until the computer again senses misfires and shuts the cylinders off again.

As you have learned, you can do this as many times as you want.

[Leanped]

Maybe your car jumped timing? I think that's pretty uncommon on these, but that cam position sensor code is an issue.

If I were you I'd take it to a shop and have them diagnose. Sounds pretty serious.

[Montegowagon]

Check your oil cap, sounds like you might have a massive vacuum leak. If the oil cap is on but not tighten down, it will exhibit the symptoms you describe

[smass]

Check the ground strap from the frame to the valve cover. The brown wires that bolt into the metal valve cover ground all the coils. Where was your coolant leak?

[dpaul]

P1017 Code - Valvetronic Eccentric Shaft Sensor Plausibility

[Eddynandez2]

Originally Posted by dpaul

P1017 Code - Valvetronic Eccentric Shaft Sensor Plausibility

Lol I just noticed this code, I removed the ESS and ordered a new one. Hope this fixes the problem, thanks.

[Eddynandez2]

Originally Posted by smass

Check the ground strap from the frame to the valve cover. The brown wires that bolt into the metal valve cover ground all the coils. Where was your coolant leak?

The hose that connects to the radiator wasn't properly inserted into the radiator and with enough pressure it would just pop out and leak the entire coolant

[Eddynandez]

UPDATE: I was able to get back into my account.
Also
it turns out it was just a dirty/faulty VANOS solenoid.

I removed and tested both of them and exhaust side VANOS was completely stuck.
I gave it a good clean, tested it again and it looked like it worked fine again.
I installed everything back in and the car started too run smoothly.

However, a few miles later it looks like it got stuck again and the car would stop running and not wanna stay running for too long after turning the key. Good thing I was parked outside of Autozone when this happened, I went into Autozone and bought a new VANOS solenoid, installed it on the spot and now my car is running like a champ without the recurring rough idle again.

Moral of the story: when Youtube recommends you 1000 videos of mechanics telling you to check you're VANOS, maybe listen so you wont have to spend time and money fixing what you think is the problem