[Anderson11]

Going to be meeting with my local dealer next week to place an order on a 2023 G82. Was told over the phone that to get in the queue I will have to make a 5k non refundable deposit. We briefly discussed the likelihood of me trading my 2021 M2C thats mint with 14k miles. My question is what has been your experience with negotiating trade price for a car that you may not get for months and with these times perhaps longer? I am seeing advertised prices for 2021 M2Cs anywhere from 58-64K.

[Besharaf]

There's plenty of dealers asking for much less refundable deposits.

I'd shop around.G82 allocations are not hard to come by compared to G80.

[mzcp]

Originally Posted by Anderson11

Going to be meeting with my local dealer next week to place an order on a 2023 G82. Was told over the phone that to get in the queue I will have to make a 5k non refundable deposit. We briefly discussed the likelihood of me trading my 2021 M2C thats mint with 14k miles. My question is what has been your experience with negotiating trade price for a car that you may not get for months and with these times perhaps longer? I am seeing advertised prices for 2021 M2Cs anywhere from 58-64K.

I sold my 2020 M2C last year for $61k. You should get low to high 60's. You will get more money selling private but that takes time and the right buyer. Nobody knows what the price will be in a few months. Unless you get a tax write off with your trade, shop around online and Carmax etc...

[Flying05]

No way in Gods green earth would I pay a non refundable deposit of 5k. Go look for another dealer that is insane. At the end of the day, most might say a $1k non refundable deposit, but would never stand anyways. And do not give cash and pay with a card.

My dealer asked for a $1k deposit. Didn't have to sign anything. If I wouldn't have bought the car, they would have made a lot more selling it on the lot and giving my money back.

[snareman]

Wow, unless I was really set on that dealer and SURE they could get a SOON allocation I'd never give them 5k non-refundable. That seems insane. Its not like they should have trouble selling the allocation if you decided not to buy it from them. I tell the dealers I'm on lists with, if you get an allocation first call me and I'll buy it. It pays to be a winner (and have an early allocation for the customer).

[2011ninja]

$5,000.00

To get on a list?

['Cane]

lol @ $5k non-refundable deposit just to get on the list. DM me and I'll get you the info for a CA that will do sticker, no deposit, then sell the M2C on your own.

[snareman]

I feel like there is a consensus here. Unless you are really set on going with THIS dealer and don't care when they might get an allocation you should either tell him to put you on the list with no deposit or just go somewhere else as there are plenty that don't require any money, or at least should have a refundable one. It seems like the consensus is to walk far and fast from his deal laughing at him loudly as you walk away.

[MassComp]

Did you try to negotiate the deposit amount down?

My dealer wanted a $5,000 non-refundable deposit just to get on the waiting list for a MY2023, and I was able to negotiate the amount down to $3,000. In my case I didn't really have a choice since my dealership was the only one around who was offering MSRP with no ADM. Many higher end dealerships in my area all want non-refundable deposits for ordered vehicles. My last two Porsches had this requirement, so nothing new on this front. In their view, a non-refundable deposit on an ordered vehicle helps filter out the tire kickers, people with poor credit, flippers, and ensures they don't get stuck with an unpopular colored or optioned vehicle which could prove difficult to sell if the buyer backs out last minute.

Be sure though to get any promises/commitments from the dealership down on paper before handing over your credit card for the deposit (NEVER pay in cash/check). I was able to get my dealership to commit to MSRP (no ADM), as well as an estimated production & delivery date. Also be prepared to receive your new car a bit late in today's environment. You can't get mad at the dealership if the issue comes from BMW themselves.

Now as for your trade, you have two choices if you need to keep your vehicle while you wait for the new one. Sell it on your own, or trade it in when you take delivery of the new vehicle. Chances are your trade WILL be worth less 4 months down the road when you finally take delivery of your new car, and keep in mind that the dealership WILL try to lowball you on the trade price (especially in States where your trade goes towards lowering your State tax requirement), so be sure factor all this that in when it comes to your finances.

[vj123]

Its going to take at least 3 - 4 months to get your vehicle after you receive your allocation. Dealer is not going to promise a trade in now considering the extended timeline. Unless your state had a huge trade in tax benefit (its capped in my state), i would sell the vehicle privately.

Also $5k deposit to get into the waitlist is a lot. Most dealers ask $1k after you lock in the build.

[M3PGH]

in normal times
you walk to a dealer , order an M3 that will arrive in roughly 8-10 weeks. Your dealer will give you you firm number on your trade in with some restriction like mileage and no accident etc . Markets did not change by much within 2-3 month
today's environment is completely different
1. Getting the M3 even with an allocation can be several months
2. Used car market is at peak and started a decline . Rate of decline is unknown depends on many factors including interest rates , strength of the economy etc
so bottom line
your trade in number will be floating unless you pre trade it now or when you have an allocation in hand and production starts

[ChargerHellcat]

Tough time to make a trade especially with car season coming up. I did it at the end of August last year. The dealer gave me two months to enjoy the car before I had to try to trade it in, then they try to knock it down 1500 dollars after the two months were up. They ended honoring the original offer.

At the end of day. One full car season is a car season you never get back, you just have to see how important it is to you. If you live down south where it's all year car season. Then I would get top value now.

[YamaLink]

My first dealer inquiry wanted a 5K non refundable as well. Second wanted $5K refundable. Third wanted $1K refundable. I went with the one that asked for $0.

[Slowphiveo]

I was in a similar position as OP (minus the $5k non-refundable deposit). I was given an offer for my car at the time and took it a traded it in. Several reasons justified my decision. The market is unpredictable and by many accounts the used car market is basically at peak or just past peak, so I got top dollar on trade. With interest rates on the rise, I think the used car market (and greater automotive market in general) is going to start to slowly cool in the next few months. The other factor in my decision was the fear of something happening to my car that I planned to trade. Yes, I've heard the argument that "that's was car insurance is for" but then the car has a ding on its car fax and you will have to deal with a pretty substantial degree of diminished value whether you like it or not. Taking all that into account, I felt it was the the safer and better financial bet to trade the car in at the time of deposit. Yes, it sucks not having a fun car. Yes every day nice day that goes by that I'm using my daily and not a fun car is a little stab in the ribs. Its compounded by the fact that it's been about 2 months and I still don't have an allocation and who knows when I will get one. Every other day I consider pulling my deposit and just going out and getting a nice pre-owned (different manufacturer) car. These are all things to consider. I'm hoping in the long run it pays off, but it sucks. No sugar coating it.

[vj123]

Originally Posted by Slowphiveo

The other factor in my decision was the fear of something happening to my car that I planned to trade. Yes, I've heard the argument that "that's was car insurance is for" but then the car has a ding on its car fax and you will have to deal with a pretty substantial degree of diminished value whether you like it or not. Taking all that into account, I felt it was the the safer and better financial bet to trade the car in at the time of deposit.

If I was in your position, I would have done the same thing.

I was planning to sell one of my commuters to Carvana last year and hit a deer couple of days before trade in. After this incident, they reduced the offer by $8k. In addition, the vehicle sat in a dealer workshop for more than a month due to parts unavailability. I eventually ended up selling the vehicle to the same dealer as they gave the best offer and ended up losing $4k than the offer i had before the incident.

[BMWRacer523]

$1-$1.5k deposit is the norm. They can claim its "non-refundable" but that will not legally hold water. Pay with a card so you can dispute in the worst case scenario. Re trade in I would get multiple offers in hand before deciding.

[BEAR-AvHistory]

Zero to get on the list. $1,000 refundable to have the order placed. Any more than that & you are just getting taken for a ride.

FWIW this was the first BMW since 2002 that I had to put anything down to order.

[Anderson11]

Thanks all. This is a new experience (ordering) a BMW or any new car for that matter. I was lucky with my M2C because the dealer found the exact same car in DC and they did a swap. Was driving the car a week later. No one likes to get boned especially with this kind of money involved. Many thanks, much appreciated..

[M4CompConv/X7]

Originally Posted by mzcp

I sold my 2020 M2C last year for $61k. You should get low to high 60's. You will get more money selling private but that takes time and the right buyer. Nobody knows what the price will be in a few months. Unless you get a tax write off with your trade, shop around online and Carmax etc...

One thing that I experienced when I was getting rid of my Ford Raptor truck, in preparation of receiving my G83. Most offers were $50K to $55K. The downside to selling outright, is when you buy your new car, you will pay sales tax on the entire purchase price. My BMW Dealer offered $51K to trade, which makes the offer approximately $54K because at 6%, that would defer about $3K in sales tax.
I found a Ford dealer whose dealership was in the same Automotive Group of dealers. He offered $54K, and provided me a letter stating as such. I took the letter to my BMW Dealer who offered the same $54K knowing they could transfer the truck to that Ford Dealer for the same $54K. This was the best way to sell the truck and still get the maximum sales tax reduction.

[jkap27]

Originally Posted by M3PGH

in normal times
you walk to a dealer , order an M3 that will arrive in roughly 8-10 weeks. Your dealer will give you you firm number on your trade in with some restriction like mileage and no accident etc . Markets did not change by much within 2-3 month
today's environment is completely different
1. Getting the M3 even with an allocation can be several months
2. Used car market is at peak and started a decline . Rate of decline is unknown depends on many factors including interest rates , strength of the economy etc
so bottom line
your trade in number will be floating unless you pre trade it now or when you have an allocation in hand and production starts

That’s exactly what I was told…ordered in December and they said ‘you might not be getting this car for 6-8 months we’re not gonna give you a trade in value yet’. Still don’t have an allocation 😂

5k non refundable is ridiculous…I’d probably have a corvette right now if the few places I asked didn’t request that lol no way I’d do that

[JDR_G80]

Your trade in will be worth something different in a couple months, whether higher or lower. Finally seeing some articles about Manheim prices coming down, but when you take into account what CEO's are saying, specifically BMW and Honda, new car inventories still look to be low. Also, the G gen of the M2 might take a bite into F87s.

This post is not helpful at all!

[Purekoryo]

No deposit for me and got the M3C at MSRP. I received a quote on the trade in once production # was generated and gave me the option to trade it in then and hold the tax credit for up to a year. However I waited one week before car arrived and was able to get a few thousand dollars more on trade in with some more negotiation.