[beems58]

Anyone know after replacing parts, how long does it take to complete a drive cycle? I replaced some parts but CEL still comes on.

E92 335i

[jwalker87]

There is no set distance/duration. It requires going through the various portions of the drive cycle.

[tcphoto]

One of life’s mysteries, I went through this when I owned an E46 and trying to get rid of lean codes. After replacing vacuum hoses, intake boots and other items I eventually gave up and it finally cleared.

[beems58]

Originally Posted by tcphoto

One of life's mysteries, I went through this when I owned an E46 and trying to get rid of lean codes. After replacing vacuum hoses, intake boots and other items I eventually gave up and it finally cleared.

I'm having a bad time 😂[IMG][/IMG]

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by jwalker87

There is no set distance/duration. It requires going through the various portions of the drive cycle [Attachment]

I would be interested in knowing the SOURCE of your attachment, and WHAT Make/Model/ Build Date it is applicable to. In the 5+ years I have owned my 328xi, I have NEVER completed such a "Drive Cycle" ONCE.

Yet, I have NEVER had an issue with Readiness Monitors NOT resetting, or passing Emissions Inspections every two years.
George

[Ozzie335i]

Have you clicked the adaptations?

[KhaosKid]

So, I have read that some codes will clear right away when you replace the parts that would fix the code. But others set a "permanent" code. These ones cannot be cleared by a scan tool. When you replace the faulty parts, and IF those parts were indeed causing the issue, each car has it's own conditions that need to be met in order for the ECU/DME to clear the permanent code(s). So, the drive cycle in relation to the clearing of these codes is variable, and depends on the code itself and what BMW engineers programmed as the conditions to be tested/met before the code can be cleared. Sometimes its as simple as turning on the car and while idling it will clear the code almost instantly. Other times, you must drive on the highway, at operating temperature, for 20-30 minutes, or for 40-50km. I'd say if the code does not go away by the 50Km mark, and you did a mix of idling, stop and go traffic, and highway driving, then the problem still needs to be addressed.

Edit: so, around 30-40 miles

Edit 2: pending means the car/DME has noticed the issue/ abnormal behaviour of a sensor l, but the sensor reading is not in the range of being so abnormal that it becomes a permanent code *yet*. I hope that makes sense.

[Serf27]

I have yet to see a code or sensor on bmw that does not let you clear it if all is working order with key on car off
If the light/code immediately pops up after clearing the code, the fault is still there.

That’s my experience anyways.

If a code is present and a part was replaced but the code wasn’t cleared, it usually takes 2-3 complete drive cycles for the SES to turn off.

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by KhaosKid

So, I have read... [PLEASE link or identify the SOURCE/ Reference you "read" and what make/ model/ build date of vehicle that pertained to. I fear you are conflating Readiness Monitors and Fault Codes.] ... I hope that makes sense.

If you have an example of a Fault Code (in ANY Module) that you can clear with Ignition on, Engine OFF, and Fault Code is STILL in Error Memory when you Read Error Memory in that Module (without starting Engine or using component), I would be interested in knowing WHAT that Fault Code is, in What Module, and What Software/ Scan Tool was used to Read/ Clear/ Read the code.

Only Fault Code I'm aware of that you can't clear is EGS 578E, Oil Wear Fault, which must be "cleared" by resetting the "Counter", as it is NOT a "Sensor Signal" Fault.
George

[dpaul]

Originally Posted by gbalthrop

If you have an example of a Fault Code (in ANY Module) that you can clear with Ignition on, Engine OFF, and Fault Code is STILL in Error Memory when you Read Error Memory in that Module (without starting Engine or using component), I would be interested in knowing WHAT that Fault Code is, in What Module, and What Software/ Scan Tool was used to Read/ Clear/ Read the code.

Only Fault Code I'm aware of that you can't clear is EGS 578E, Oil Wear Fault, which must be "cleared" by resetting the "Counter", as it is NOT a "Sensor Signal" Fault.
George

George, FWIW I believe that certain light bulb faults in FRM act like EGS 578E. They don't clear because a "counter" needs to be reset. That's all I can think of!

I'm with you 100% - I don't understand why one would choose to pay for diagnostic software with limited capabilities when they can have the most sophisticated tools used by the factory for free!

I have no idea what app beems58 is using and we cannot be sure which faults are current and which are not. That said, there's a DTML pump code at the top of the list (P240A) and a second DTML pump code at the bottom (2A18). I suspect that P240A is the generic OBDII counterpart of 2A18. In any case, both are hard electrical faults, not indicators of leaks.

beems58, the DTML (evap) pump is easy to access behind the driver side rear wheel. The most likely (but far from only) possibilities are a bad pump, a fuse (F06, F74 or 17 depending on build date), a corroded connector or it is possible the wires to the pump were chaffed/cut through contact with a frame weld. I've never seen the latter but I know it's been reported a number of times.

Easy enough to check the fuse and go take a look at the wires.

[beems58]

Originally Posted by dpaul

George, FWIW I believe that certain light bulb faults in FRM act like EGS 578E. They don't clear because a "counter" needs to be reset. That's all I can think of!

I'm with you 100% - I don't understand why one would choose to pay for diagnostic software with limited capabilities when they can have the most sophisticated tools used by the factory for free!

I have no idea what app beems58 is using and we cannot be sure which faults are current and which are not. That said, there's a DTML pump code at the top of the list (P240A) and a second DTML pump code at the bottom (2A18). I suspect that P240A is the generic OBDII counterpart of 2A18. In any case, both are hard electrical faults, not indicators of leaks.

beems58, the DTML (evap) pump is easy to access behind the driver side rear wheel. The most likely (but far from only) possibilities are a bad pump, a fuse (F06, F74 or 17 depending on build date), a corroded connector or it is possible the wires to the pump were chaffed/cut through contact with a frame weld. I've never seen the latter but I know it's been reported a number of times.

Easy enough to check the fuse and go take a look at the wires.

Didn't realize my notifications were off.

I checked the wiring and it didn't seem like anything was broken or corroded. Though I did take it to BMW and they said the harness is corroded. So I'm just confused if I'm missing something. The code BMW gave me was the same P240A for the DMTL Leak. They changed the pump coded it and it didn't get rid of the SES or CEL light. They said they can change the harness etc but that costs an arm and a leg — plus they said that might not even fix my issue.

Long story short, am I supposed to check the fuses first, then move to the wiring? Or should I just assume my wiring is corroded or cut somewhere?
(E92 335i 08)[IMG][/IMG]

[dpaul]

Originally Posted by beems58

Didn't realize my notifications were off.

I checked the wiring and it didn't seem like anything was broken or corroded. Though I did take it to BMW and they said the harness is corroded. So I'm just confused if I'm missing something. The code BMW gave me was the same P240A for the DMTL Leak. They changed the pump coded it and it didn't get rid of the SES or CEL light. They said they can change the harness etc but that costs an arm and a leg — plus they said that might not even fix my issue.

Long story short, am I supposed to check the fuses first, then move to the wiring? Or should I just assume my wiring is corroded or cut somewhere?
(E92 335i 08)[IMG][/IMG]

I hesitate to imagine what the dealer has already charged you to complete waste your time. Just a suggestion, never go to a dealer for ANYTHING involving this car. They'll just throw parts until something sticks. They won't take the time to actually check things first - it doesn't make them any money.

Yes, check the fuse first. Hopefully you have a DVM.
If you cannot determine which fuse is the correct one, post the last 7 characters of your VIN number and I can tell you.

Pretty easy to check the harness with a DVM - here's a schematic diagram for an N54 build date 09/2007 or later.

EDIT: Are those FRM codes new or did you just decide not to share them in your first post? Do you have a headlight and brake light out or not?

[beems58]

Originally Posted by dpaul

I hesitate to imagine what the dealer has already charged you to complete waste your time. Just a suggestion, never go to a dealer for ANYTHING involving this car. They'll just throw parts until something sticks. They won't take the time to actually check things first - it doesn't make them any money.

Yes, check the fuse first. Hopefully you have a DVM.
If you cannot determine which fuse is the correct one, post the last 7 characters of your VIN number and I can tell you.

Pretty easy to check the harness with a DVM - here's a schematic diagram for an N54 build date 09/2007 or later.

EDIT: Are those FRM codes new or did you just decide not to share them in your first post? Do you have a headlight and brake light out or not?

P156981

FRM codes? I didn't think the other codes were important because I'm just trying to get it to a point where I can pass emissions, then slowly fix the rest. The lamps are not out, all the lights work fine, they might be going out soon.