[mkmars]

Hey Guys,
Great info here. I have a problem with my fan (2009 328i). It does not work at all. I have followed instructions from previous threads. All fuses are good. Relays checked okay. With ignition on, I have 12V at the Red/Blue, and around 4.40 at the signal wire {Black/Blue). The signal voltage does not change with AC powered on with and without engine running. This has puzzled me since no voltage change happens with signal wire.
I have also changed all Temp sensors but I get three codes which are labeled as permanent and can not erase them with my scanner.
They are P0118, P3198 and P00B3.

Need Help.

[gbalthrop]

Originally Posted by mkmars

... I have a problem with my fan (2009 328i). It does not work at all... With ignition on, I have 12V
at the Red/Blue, and around 4.40 at the signal wire {Black/Blue). The signal voltage does not change with AC powered
on with and without engine running... I have also changed all Temp sensors but I get three codes which are labeled as
permanent and can not erase them with my scanner: P0118, P3198 and P00B3.

Attached are ISTA ScreenPrints showing Definitions of the 3 Codes, and Cooling System SSP Wiring Diagram showing Sensors
& Cooling Fan power. My initial impression is that you have a wiring/ connector Fault between either the ECTS or ROTS and DME.
Power supply to the Fan is NOT a problem per your 12V test of Red/Blue wire, so no Fuse or Cut-out issue.

First question is: WHAT Scan Tool or Diagnostic Software (INPA/ISTA) do you have? I assume you have N51 engine (SULEV)
in your E90? You have TWO Temp Sensors in question, and the one at Radiator Outlet (ROTS) is the primary Fan Control
Signal used by the DME to control E-Fan Speed. If you have a Scan Tool that can read ECTS or ROTS signal, as received by
the DME, as Live Data, you can quickly determine WHICH sensor signal is NOT being received by the DME. Even if you
don't have INPA/ISTA, an Entry-Level Scan Tool that can display Live Data from the DME should be able to show you
the ECTS Signal as received by the DME (but probably NOT the ROTS signal).

You can also Test the function of an Engine Temp Sensor with a multimeter, using the Ohms/ Resistance Setting.
The resistance varies inversely with Coolant Temp at the Sensor: ~ 2500 Ohms at 20C, and ~ 250 ohms at 90C. If you
have replaced BOTH sensors, then the likelihood is the fault is in the wiring or connector between the Sensor & DME.

With a simple Multimeter, you can test for Voltage (Ignition/ KL15 ON) at the Black/Gray wire of X87/2 at ROTS Connector,
and at the Yellow/Red wire of X6236/1 at the ECTS Connector. You could also test to see if there is a Voltage Change (in reference
to Chassis Ground) at each of the two Sensor DME Ground wires at those connectors (X87/1 & X6236/2) when ignition
switched ON/OFF.

If your "Speed Signal" (Black/Blue wire at E-Fan Connector X1797/4) from DME to E-Fan has NO Voltage Change,
then there is probably NO issue with the E-Fan or its integrated Control Electronics. However, I would be curious
to know if applying 9V with a small electronics 9V battery causes the E-Fan to run. NO ONE has reported testing that.

My understanding is that the Voltage supply to the ECTS & ROTS is 5V, when Ignition ON. If you don't have ISTA, &
need more information on Location of Connectors in E-box related to ROTS & ECTS, to test wiring/connectors at DME,
please advise and I will provide same. If you need more info, please provide Last-7 Characters of VIN to insure CORRECT.

BTW, since you have TWO BMW's, you SHOULD consider getting INPA/ISTA. See the attached pdf: E9x References, for info.
George

[mkmars]

Thank you George for instructions. I will check and update.
Mike

[mkmars]

I have an old scanner, and I also have Foxwell NT650 Elite. I know it has live data option and I can see the the engine and radiator temps. I changed both sensors but no change. Two days ago I took the fan assembly out, and reconnected the motor only. Pressing the AC caused it to run, turned off the AC and the fan was still running. Turned the engine off and on, running the fan and was good. I put it back together and tried to test it and it failed.

At that point I ordered a Vemo fan assembly (600W) since the original part is back ordered everywhere taking a month to get it from Germany . As you suspect, it might be the connection wires but I didn't want to remove it again without having a backup.

I have INPA installed but it looks like limited version. I could not find the option to activate the fan. BTW, I cleared the previous codes and ran it again. I get the code 2EFE every time.

Thanks again.
Mike

[mkmars]

Just to update;

The issue was from the fan side. Could have been either the connections or the fan control module itself. I decided to just replaced it with the new Vemo fan. The Vemo is for N51 engines, but the fan shroud didn't have any opening for the EAC sensor cable. I had to cut an opening to fit it. Fan is working now the way it supposed to.

Thanks,
Mike