[F87source]

Credit: F87Source



Introduction:

In this product review I will be taking an in depth look at the BMS Wheel Hanger Pin Tool (I will be referring to it as the BMS Wheel Pin Tool from now on since it is much shorter) for BMW vehicles, and why I think it is a must have for any BMW owner, and why it is better than the vast majority of wheel pin tools on the market.

If you want to purchase a BMS Wheel Pin Hanger Tool here is a link: https://burgertuning.com/collections...wheel-pin-tool



Disclaimer:

Damage/Injury Disclaimer: Any information, guidance, technical advice, coding advice, tuning advice, datalogging advice, installation instruction, calculation, experiment, safety information, or product installation demonstrated in my reviews is to be consumed and or done at your own risk. I will not be responsible for personal injuries, injuries to others or any living being, or any damage to your car, or any property damage.

Monetary disclaimer: I do not make commission, or profits or any kind of monetary gain from the sale of the BMS Wheel Hanger Pin Tool.

Sponsorship disclaimer: The way my reviews work is that I determine what product that I want to buy and actually use on my own car, and during this process the product that I end up choosing is what I believe is the best option on the market. I then reach out to the company offering the product and ask them if they would be willing to sponsor me in a review, if the answer is yes then I write a review, if the answer is no I would end up buying the product (sometimes at a later date) but I wouldn’t complete a detailed review about it (I might write something, but not to the same extent as my standard reviews). But the critical thing is that I reach out for a sponsorship and not the other way around, this means that the products I am reviewing are actually things I believe in and would use on my own car. This also means that I am not being paid to review something I do not care about. Would I do a review if a sponsor reached out to me? The answer would depend on if I believed in the product, and I would make it clear in my review if this were the case. But at the time of writing this review, such an interaction has not occurred yet.


Time of writing disclaimer: everything I am writing about in this review is described at the time of writing and may not be updated in the future, so there is a potential that things are no longer accurate in my comparisons as parts are changed and upgraded as time passes.


Bias and comparison disclaimer: Throughout this review I will attempt to be as unbiased as possible while drawing comparisons to other products.


Mistakes and Inaccuracies Disclaimer: Throughout my review I will try to be as factually accurate as possible, but there are always chances that I make mistakes and write things that are incorrect/false. If this is the case please point it out to me and if indeed it is true that I am incorrect, I will correct these mistakes and apologize for them. Afterall I am only human, so mistakes can and will inevitably happen.


Subjective Disclaimer: Please note, these reviews are also written in my own opinion, so when I am comparing different products to determine what I see as the best, there are many factors that I go through to form this opinion. Obviously there will be disagreements between people, so I will do my best to objectively determine what I deem to be the best, but at the end of the day it is still just my own opinion whether it be right or wrong. Take whatever I say in my reviews with a grain of salt.



Image Credits:

Images and videos used in this review are all property of their rightful owners as credited below each image, I am just using them for the purpose of this review but if you (the owner of the image) would like them removed please let me know via pm. Otherwise thanks to the respective image owners (I made sure to credit your online name and link where I found the photo) of the photos, without you this review would be so much more bland.



Review Disclaimer:

First and foremost I would like to thank Burger Motorsports (BMS) for agreeing to partially sponsor me for this review. Despite this I will remain as unbiased as possible during the review. Please note, the dynamics of this relationship was that I reached out for a sponsorship review and not the other way around. This should demonstrate how I truly feel about the BMS Wheel Hanger Pin Tool - in the sense that I truly believe it is something every BMW owner should have at their disposal when removing or reinstalling their wheels, as it makes life so so much easier. In fact I actually have this wheel pin tool in my BMW factory tool kit at all times just in case I need to remove a wheel.



Customer Service, Shipping, and Overall Experience Dealing with BMS:


Credit: F87Source


Credit: F87Source


Credit: F87Source

Let’s begin with customer service, shipping, and the overall experience. I have said this in the past and I will say it again, BMS has some of the best customer service in the entire BMW community. They are responsive when answering emails, and are friendly, patient, and polite (Thanks again Payam). Shipping was great, BMS uses FedEx International Connect Plus which allowed for economical and fast shipping even across international borders (USA to Canada). BMS also uses quality ULine boxes (not some cheap Chinese boxes) with proper Box certificates and they package the box incredibly nicely with plenty of brown paper stuffing. Now you may wonder why is this even important? Well to answer that question it has everything to do with shipping insurance. If your package is ever damaged FedEx or UPS or any other carrier will ask for photo evidence of the packaging to make sure it was sufficiently packed and protected. They will then ask for the box certificate number to ensure that the box was strong enough for the items packed within. If any of these are not within spec, then your insurance claim may be denied. This is why packaging is so important, and BMS has perfectly nailed this criteria.

So overall, customer service, shipping, and my experience dealing with BMS has been great, no real complaints!



What is a Wheel Hanger Pin Tool and why do I need one?:

Let’s start off by going over what a Wheel Hanger Pin Tool even is. Well, most people who own modern day BMW’s probably know that these cars don’t have wheel studs or wheel lugs, instead these BMW’s use wheel bolts. This means once you’ve removed the wheel bolt the wheels are only held onto the car via friction from sitting on the thin ridge of the wheel hub. This makes it incredibly easy to knock the wheel off of the hub, and if that does happen you could risk the wheel dropping and getting damaged or even hitting your expensive brakes.

Take for example the brakes on the F87 M2CS (they are the same as the one’s on the M2C), or the carbon ceramic brakes on the F80 cars:


Credit: BMW https://www.bmw-m.com/en/topics/maga...bmw-m2-cs.html



Credit: Money2536 https://f80.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...&postcount=192


If you look at the brake to wheel clearances on these larger 6 pot calipers and 400 mm brake rotors, you will notice the calipers themselves are literally millimeters away from touching the wheel themselves and the rotors themselves are not so far off either. This means if your wheel slips, you will either hit the rotors (and that could be a multi thousand dollar mistake if you have CCB’s) or you hit your calipers and damage its nice finish.

So a simple solution to this is using a Wheel Pin Hanger tool, which is a simple rod that threads into one of your wheel bolt holes and acts like a guide to help you to slide your wheel on and off. With this guide in place you won’t be able to drop your wheel, and there are no limits to how many you can have - if you want to only have 1 that’s no problem. But you can also have 2 or more if you feel that gives you more stability when guiding the wheel on and off. These pins also mean you don’t have to try and aim your wheel for the tiny little wheel hub lip when putting on your wheels, you have a pin that sits far from the brakes for you to put the wheel onto - remember the tolerances to these large brakes are small so there is literally no room for error.



BMS Wheel Hanger Pin Tool:

Now that we know what a Wheel Hanger Pin Tool is, and why we would even want one, let's take a more indepth look at BMS’s offering, and compare it to the competition - because for the price I have not seen anything remotely as good as BMS’s offering.


Credit: F87Source


Credit: F87Source


Credit: F87Source


Credit: F87Source


So looking at the BMS wheel pin tool we notice a few things:

1) Smooth: The BMS wheel Pin tool is completely smooth along its shaft where the wheel would sit. This is a critical feature in order to prevent your wheels from being scuffed up and damaged. For instance take a look at these cheaper wheel pin tools found on Amazon:


Credit: Amazon https://www.amazon.ca/Black-Wheel-Ha.../dp/B07RMZYQJY



Credit: Amazon https://www.amazon.ca/1pc-Steel-Whee...1964325&sr=8-5


If you look at these two cheaper wheel pin tools you will notice the tip of these pins have a rough textured surface. I am not sure why anyone would want this feature or why it is even done at all, but this type of surface will chew up the finish on your wheels and is a reason why you do not want to buy these tools.


2) Tapered nose: The BMS wheel pin tool also has a more aggressively tapered nose compared to the alternatives to help you more easily guide your wheels onto the pin, again it’s just a nice touch the BMS tool has.


3) Pinned nose: The BMS tool also has a pinned nose (has a hole on the end of the nose), this is another nice touch this tool has and it allows you to insert a rod into the wheel pin and allow you to get more turning leverage. This might be used to further tighten down the wheel pin tool or to loosen the wheel pin tool, which is nice if you can’t get a good grip on it with your bare hands.


4) Minor diameter increase compared to threads: The BMS wheel pin tool is also almost uniform in diameter along its entire length (almost same diameter shaft as its threads), meaning it will fit any wheel. Whereas wheel pin tools that increase drastically in diameter might have clearance issues on tight tolerance wheels.



Next let’s examine the BMS wheel pin tool a bit closer:


Credit: F87Source


Credit: F87Source


Credit: F87Source


Credit: F87Source



What we notice is:

1) Proper Dimensions: The BMS wheel pin tool has the correct thread dimensions and tolerances to fit the BMW wheel hub without damage. This may sound trivial, but there have been cases where poorly made bolts caused thread damage, and I am happy to report the BMS wheel pin tool is properly designed. So looking at the images you will notice the BMS pin tool has a thread diameter of 13.86 mm, this is ~1% difference in diameter compared to the bmw wheel bolt which is M14 x 1.25 (https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=36_2028), so the difference is within accepted tolerances according to the standard M14 bolt specs: https://fullerfasteners.com/tech/thr...rews-and-nuts/.

The BMS wheel pin tool also has the exact 1.25 thread pitch according to testing via my thread pitch gauge fitting perfectly, bottoming out, and having zero play. So the threads are perfectly made on this wheel pin tool.

The length is also 125.41 mm, but this is just for your interest, as length is just subjective to whatever the manufacturer wants to make.


2) Fits in your BMW F series tool kit (part number: 71116788732, https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...71116788732/): The final thing I would like to say is that this BMS wheel pin tool fits snugly into your factory BMW tool kit that comes with your car, so you can carry it with you anywhere and always have it on hand. If you look in the image above, the wheel pin is on the second compartment from the left, and this is a segregated compartment where you have a long channel (fits the wheel pin tool perfectly) and a hollow channel (fits the wheel lock tool perfectly).



Images of the BMS Wheel Hanger Pin Tool in Action:



Credit: F87Source


Here is an image of my BMS wheel hanger pin tool being used while I install my 034 motorsport rear brake rotors, and all I can say is this tool is an absolute must have for any diy mechanic. You will not believe how handy this tool is, because my car has relatively low amounts of KM’s on it and I do not drive in the winter, my wheels are not stuck to the hub. This means as soon as my wheel bolts are removed, the wheel wants to fall off the hub. If I did not have the BMS wheel pin tool in place, my wheel would have fallen off the hub and hit my brake rotors. The BMS wheel pin tool also made installing my 034 motorsport brake rotors so much easier, because the rotors also did not want to stay on the hub just like the wheels. So while I was fumbling around for the 2 rotor bolts the BMS wheel pin tool aided me in holding the rotor onto the hub. The wheel pin tool was also extremely nice to have when it came to installing the rotors, because the rear dust shields cover the entire back of the rotor and actually sticks out a bit and goes around the rotor. This makes it really hard to put your fingers around the back side of the rotor because the dust shields would pinch your fingers. So with the BMS wheel pin tool you could just put the rotors onto the pin and slide it onto the hub - it is just so much easier to do it with this tool.



Summary:

So overall the BMS Wheel Hanger Pin Tool is a high quality tool that every BMW owner should have at their disposal to protect their expensive OEM or aftermarket wheels and brake rotors + calipers from damage during wheel removal, If you would like to to purchase a BMS Wheel Pin Hanger Tool here is a link: https://burgertuning.com/collections...wheel-pin-tool

[F87source]

Reserved for future posts.

[mikeyymonster]

I have both this and the future classic version. I find I use this one more because of that extra indentation on the middle which gives you a little grip for taking it on and off. The future classic is completely smooth which makes it harder to remove if you have sweaty fingers!

[F87source]

Originally Posted by mikeyymonster

I have both this and the future classic version. I find I use this one more because of that extra indentation on the middle which gives you a little grip for taking it on and off. The future classic is completely smooth which makes it harder to remove if you have sweaty fingers!

The little pin hole at the end helps too, it allows you to use a hex key or something as a turning tool.

[rangerfan94]

This is the most complete review I have seen for a $10 product. Ever! Well done. If anyone is considering these, get 2. Makes it a lot easier to work with heavy wheels when you have more than 1.

[billspreston]

Check out these KTC ones – they are pretty well thought out:

• Spring loaded ball retention is faster to install and remove vs threads
• Tapered & rounded tip makes it easier to guide the wheel on
• Indented gripping area makes it easier to remove

[F87source]

Originally Posted by rangerfan94

This is the most complete review I have seen for a $10 product. Ever! Well done. If anyone is considering these, get 2. Makes it a lot easier to work with heavy wheels when you have more than 1.

Thanks!

I prefer one because you don't have to line up 2 pins, but that's just personal preference.

Originally Posted by billspreston

Check out these KTC ones – they are pretty well thought out:

• Spring loaded ball retention is faster to install and remove vs threads
• Tapered & rounded tip makes it easier to guide the wheel on
• Indented gripping area makes it easier to remove

So the thing I don't like about spring loaded ball bearing mechanisms like this is that it can damage the threads. Jamming random things into the threads and having to pull it out later on is key to damaging threads over time. So id stay clear of this

Also when you have a product that is looser than intended, all the wheels weight goes on the edges of the threads instead of into the grooves of the threads, again not good for the threads.

[clydefrog]

Well, most people who own modern day BMW’s probably know that these cars don’t have wheel studs or wheel lugs, instead these BMW’s use wheel bolts.

This will be my first BMW so this blew my mind a bit. How cool! I've only ever had cars with lug nuts.

[F87source]

Originally Posted by clydefrog

This will be my first BMW so this blew my mind a bit. How cool! I've only ever had cars with lug nuts.

I came from Japanese cars too so it was weird for me as well. I also had an 86, but mine was the frs variant.

[Squidget]

Originally Posted by clydefrog

This will be my first BMW so this blew my mind a bit. How cool! I've only ever had cars with lug nuts.

Opinions vary. Some people greatly prefer studded rotors.

There are pros and cons to both approaches. But beyond a doubt, as a car owner, it's a hella lot easier to swap wheels on a lug system.

Thus another useful nugget: if bolts drive you crazy, you can use conversion kits to and switch to lugs. The words you want to google for are "lug/bolt/stud conversion kit." Never done it myself, but I've seen enough testimonials around here to know it can be done.

[Squidget]

Originally Posted by F87source

Thanks!

I prefer one because you don't have to line up 2 pins, but that's just personal preference.


So the thing I don't like about spring loaded ball bearing mechanisms like this is that it can damage the threads. Jamming random things into the threads and having to pull it out later on is key to damaging threads over time. So id stay clear of this

Also when you have a product that is looser than intended, all the wheels weight goes on the edges of the threads instead of into the grooves of the threads, again not good for the threads.

Yes, I agree with this. I don't like pins that aren't threaded. They wiggle, if you whoopsie and put weight on the pin you've got a much better chance of damaging the threads. And since those threads are integral to the rotor, that's an expensive oopsie.

(Related: I'd never attempt thread repair on a load-bearing part of a multi ton vehicle. If the thread is damaged, I'm replacing the whole rotor.)

Although I use threaded pins, I do prefer to use a pair. My hands aren't as steady as they used to be, so I like knowing I've got two pins to take the weight. Hell, I swear I've seen people use a full 5 pins.

[F87source]

Originally Posted by Squidget

Yes, I agree with this. I don't like pins that aren't threaded. They wiggle, if you whoopsie and put weight on the pin you've got a much better chance of damaging the threads. And since those threads are integral to the rotor, that's an expensive oopsie.

(Related: I'd never attempt thread repair on a load-bearing part of a multi ton vehicle. If the thread is damaged, I'm replacing the whole rotor.)

Although I use threaded pins, I do prefer to use a pair. My hands aren't as steady as they used to be, so I like knowing I've got two pins to take the weight. Hell, I swear I've seen people use a full 5 pins.

Yeah it would a nightmare if the threads were damage, because doing a thread repair on steel isn't fun. But since it is such a safety critical part you should probably just replace the hub which isn't fun nor cheap. So those push pins are garbage imo...


I just use one pin because it makes it easier for alignment. The bolts take way more load than that, so i'm not worried about the weight of just one wheel causing any issues.

[Squidget]

Originally Posted by F87source

I just use one pin because it makes it easier for alignment. The bolts take way more load than that, so i'm not worried about the weight of just one wheel causing any issues.

Hah, yeah, it's purely an anxiety-reduction thing, not based on any real math.

[billspreston]

Originally Posted by F87source

So the thing I don't like about spring loaded ball bearing mechanisms like this is that it can damage the threads. Jamming random things into the threads and having to pull it out later on is key to damaging threads over time. So id stay clear of this

Also when you have a product that is looser than intended, all the wheels weight goes on the edges of the threads instead of into the grooves of the threads, again not good for the threads.

You raise some very good points. While I have not experienced any thread damage with these personally, a bit of extra time spent with a threaded hanger seems like a small trade-off for the additional security that provides.

[F87source]

Originally Posted by billspreston

You raise some very good points. While I have not experienced any thread damage with these personally, a bit of extra time spent with a threaded hanger seems like a small trade-off for the additional security that provides.

Yeah, imo it is really sketchy to have things hang on the thread's edge. Because that is the thinnest and weakest part of the thread, and if you roll it or fold it over then you pretty much have screwed up the thread.

[Game]

Originally Posted by F87source

Reserved for future posts.

There's more to say?!!



Ha I kid, definitely appreciate the thread. You should start a Youtube channel.

[F87source]

Originally Posted by Game

There's more to say?!!



Ha I kid, definitely appreciate the thread. You should start a Youtube channel.

Just in case I have updates lol. For example once in awhile I have a coupon code to share and I can put i there. It's only happened twice so far (Malo industries and now automotive Passion).