| 12-31-2025, 08:55 AM | #1 |
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Anyone running the H&R 28616-7 springs?
As the title says, anyone have the H&R lowering springs, part # 28616-7 on their M2?
Also, anyone have the CS suspension tuning & running these springs? How is the ride compared to stock/stock CS tuning in all modes? I drive almost exclusively in Sport mode, sometimes in Sport+ around town, and Comfort on my weekly 250 mi interstate drive. Price for these springs is really attractive right now. Thanks for any feedback. |
| 12-31-2025, 09:35 PM | #2 |
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I have H&R springs on my 2026 G87. I have the CS tune on everything but the EDC, sorry can't help there. I Also have a 2023 G82 comp x-drive with KW HAS but the G87 rides so much better for a daily. Car has Millway camber plater with 2.5d front and 2d rear camber. It also has SPL FCAB, front and rear sway bar links and rear toe links.
Last edited by M4XC-MT; 01-02-2026 at 10:57 AM.. |
| 01-01-2026, 01:15 PM | #3 |
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I have these springs on my car. Installed by the prior owner. My original M2 had the MP HAS kit. The ride with the H&R springs is more compliant than the HAS kit. I like the H&R better than the HAS for daily driving - probably down to spring rates with the HAS being stiffer. I do not know how the H&Rs compare to stock, though.
One thing for sure is the H&R stance is quite low. Not the lowest, but this set up is lower than the height of the HAS kit on my original M2. The HAS did not rub, but I get rubbing at extreme turning with the H&Rs. Could also be the wider wheels/tires I have, but I had those on my original M2 & still no rubbing.
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| 01-01-2026, 07:02 PM | #4 | |
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| 01-03-2026, 12:39 PM | #5 |
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MASHCT can you tell me what part # is printed on the springs themselves?
I just received these springs and the box I received has definitely been opened before, the springs were just laying loose in the box with 2 bumpstops laying loose as well. The springs have a different part # on them than what is labeled on the box. |
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| 01-03-2026, 09:22 PM | #6 |
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I received and installed the H&R springs today. Was a little worried when the part #s on the springs didn't match the part # on the box, but according to H&R's website that is normal.
Install wasn't bad at all. I could use a larger breaker bar & I had to run up the street to AutoZone to grab some tools I didn't have. There is a post on this forum with instructions to install the MPHAS kit, but i think it has about 59 unnecessary steps. I did the install in my garage on jackstands. A lift would be nice, but it's very doable on jack stands. For the rears all you need to do is remove one control arm bolt - the 21mm furthest from the wheel (this is where you need a big breaker bar). Pull the control arm down, remove the spring, put in the new spring then jack the control arm up so you can re-install the bolt. Torque it down, done. *The driver's side has a level sensor that need to be disconnected. Remove the 10mm nut & push it out of the way. The fronts don't require much more work than the rears. Disconnect the one wire harness next to the strut, then pull all various wires out of their respective holders so they hang loose. Next disconnect the sway bar endlink. A video I found disconnected the top, but I found it easier to disconnect the bottom. A 16mm ratchet wrench is the best option plus you'll need a t-25 to put into the end of the screw to hold it while you're loosening the nut. Once off, disconnect the end link. Move up to the engine bay and remove the plastic covers in the upper corner of the engine bay (1 on each side). Remove 4 push pins & pull the plastic covering up exposing the top of the strut. Disconnect the EDC connector on the top of the strut and just set it aside. You'll need an 18mm pass-through socket and an extended 10mm socket to hold the strut. I ended up using a screw driver with a 10mm socket attachment because that fit inside the pass-through socket I picked up. Remove the upper strut bolt. Pull down on the spring/strut assembly, pull it out of the wheel well, remove the spring & bump stop, install the new bump stop & spring, push it back into the wheel well & back into the opening in the engine bay. Re-install the top bolt, re-install the sway bar endlink, put all the wires back in their respective holders, and re-install your wheel. *The driver's side front also has a level sensor you need to remove/re-install. Probably the easiest spring swap I've ever done. No need for a spring compressor, and just the one special tool (pass through socket). I didn't take before measurements, but after about a 25 mi drive, the distance from the bottom of the front wheel to the fender is 24", the distance from the bottom of the back wheel to the fender is 25 1/8". My Aeroflow Dynamics front splitter is 4.75" off the ground. Last edited by JABCAT; 01-04-2026 at 09:24 AM.. |
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| 01-04-2026, 12:32 AM | #8 |
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I have the Mode x H&R springs installed on mine which are the M4 springs. Apparently give a better lowered height than the M2.
Also have 18mm spacers on the rear and 15mm in the front, I was worried about rubbing but surprisingly have had none whatsoever. Had the wheels off the other day to do the drl change and no evidence at all. I highly recommend trying these springs. |
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| 01-04-2026, 12:49 AM | #9 | |
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| 01-04-2026, 01:50 PM | #10 | |
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I saw your other post about the part numbers. I can't see my part numbers with the wheels on/car on the ground. But based on your pics, mine look exactly the same from what I remember when I was changing my wheels & installing my multi-color DRLs (had to remove the fender liner for that.) Same exact color & same white graphics on them. I checked H&R's site & they only show one version for 2023+ so I think we have the same thing.
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| 01-04-2026, 02:07 PM | #11 | |
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Did you have to go get an alignment?
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| 01-04-2026, 02:26 PM | #12 |
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Just installed them last night but will probably go get an alignment this week. Car pulls just slightly right after install.
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| 01-06-2026, 06:22 AM | #13 |
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Car looks great! What a difference and inch makes.
( I know I know…that’s what she said) I’m really looking forward to driving impressions. I’m still leaning Eibach; I have a steeper driveway apron which I think the CS lip and HR setup will be too low for. |
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| 01-06-2026, 08:41 AM | #14 | |
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I have a rolled curb at the edge of my driveway (which I hate). I hadn't realized before, because I always have music on when I leave, that apparently I was scraping the exhaust valve actuators every time I left the driveway. Now with the car lower, I have to enter & leave at an angle. My Aeroflow Dynamics front lip & Zaero side skirts are about 4.5" off the ground. Comparatively, the front splitter and side skirts on my Z06 are 3.25" off the ground. I need to take a really sharp angle in that one leaving/entering & still sometimes scrape the underside. |
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| 01-16-2026, 10:40 AM | #17 | |
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| 01-16-2026, 12:29 PM | #18 | |
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