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      05-23-2011, 11:00 PM   #1
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Driving hard to clean out carbon?

1. What are the symptoms of carbon build up?
2. What is the logic behind driving your car at higher rpms for an extended time?

Here's what I got from the other thread. If you find the thread, you'll see that OP had some serious hicupping.

Quote:
Originally Posted by roundel335 View Post
I'm going to try the "blow out the carbon" fix this weekend. I have a nice limited-access tollway close to where I live, and it's about 57 miles from one end to the other. I should be able to maintain a steady speed at 4K RPM in say, 4th gear and see if this helps. I'll post my results afterwards.
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Originally Posted by roundel335 View Post
Tested my results twice this weekend - no hiccupping! Thanks for the suggestion, Galahad. I'll probably do this a few times a year now that I know it definitely has a positive effect.
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Originally Posted by roundel335 View Post
Went on a BMWCCA chapter tour today, about 250 miles round trip, both highway driving and some back-road stuff, plus a small amount of in-town with A/C on (very, very humid today). Averaged 26.4 MPG, which is about is 2 MPG better than the last similar trip with A/C off. Mileage has definitely improved.

Last edited by username604; 05-23-2011 at 11:43 PM..
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      05-23-2011, 11:18 PM   #2
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"Driving hard to clean out carbon?"

Yeah... that's it
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      05-23-2011, 11:35 PM   #3
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@Wallstreet,
Please keep the school comments to yourself.

Last edited by username604; 05-23-2011 at 11:44 PM..
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      05-23-2011, 11:40 PM   #4
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I've heard is theory before, yet cannot understand how it might work. All you will get is a lot more air flowing across the back side of the intake valves.
Oil from the crank case will still be filtered back into the valve area and cause issues. I don't care how much air passes across metal, it probably won't chip off hardened carbon. That stuff is hard to get off even with metal tools. I have no idea how people think sea foam or other methods might work.
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      05-23-2011, 11:43 PM   #5
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never heard this before
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      05-23-2011, 11:49 PM   #6
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if anything, this might work on freshly formed deposits. on hardened carbons, it will not be that effective, i think.
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      05-23-2011, 11:54 PM   #7
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Ok so what exactly is effective (and easy)?
Also is there any harm if i drive the car @ 4k rpms for 10 min?
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      05-24-2011, 12:07 AM   #8
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There is a DIY to take care of this.
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      05-24-2011, 12:35 AM   #9
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this is all for future reference / curiosity. my car runs fine
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      05-24-2011, 04:10 AM   #10
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it makes sense. if you want to clear out carbon, seafoam has been used for years. it also though no technically required, instructions say to drive the car hard for a period of time. essentially burning off the carbon. rev the crap out of it and let the fumes clean out your engine.
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      05-24-2011, 04:24 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davidkneiber View Post
Ok so what exactly is effective (and easy)?
Also is there any harm if i drive the car @ 4k rpms for 10 min?
good question, and is that how many minutes you should do this?
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      05-24-2011, 04:26 AM   #12
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i doubt it will harm your engine. it just wastes gas.
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      05-24-2011, 04:27 AM   #13
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ok and how long are you supposed to do this for?
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      05-24-2011, 04:39 AM   #14
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i would say for around 10 minutes. but make sure your car is getting fresh air. i wouldnt do it for more then 20.
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      05-24-2011, 04:43 AM   #15
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hrm.. it might be a better idea to just clean it up with sea foam... that way, you really know it got cleaned. but def. interesting idea
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      05-24-2011, 04:54 AM   #16
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Anyone try a banana in the tailpipes? j/k

I saw the pics of the carbon and thought dang, we all know the dealership is not going to make the effort to clean that well...would be nice to DIY if possible....
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      05-24-2011, 09:15 AM   #17
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Doesn't rasing your oil temperature help? driving it hard, hotter oil, melt carbon?
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      05-24-2011, 09:20 AM   #18
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Just try Chevron Techron Fuel injector cleaner. Cheap and easy to do. Worked for my rpm fluctuating problem.

http://www.chevron.com/products/prod...tives/tcp.aspx
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If no codes are being thrown use Chevron Techron fuel injector cleaner (concentrate). It solves rpm fluctuating upon cold start-up. Also, for most BMW problems start off by scanning your car with the Peake Research Tool. It contains the actual BMW codes. If you want to register a newly installed battery for free (just buy a $10 cable) and google/download BMWLogger
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      05-24-2011, 10:16 AM   #19
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Lol at this thread, here is how to clean the valves on the n54
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=520922
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      05-24-2011, 10:22 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chriztofor View Post
Just try Chevron Techron Fuel injector cleaner. Cheap and easy to do. Worked for my rpm fluctuating problem.

http://www.chevron.com/products/prod...tives/tcp.aspx
Unfortunately, that won't help on direct injection engines.

Leif W.
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      05-24-2011, 10:30 AM   #21
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guys, deposits form because gasoline is sprayed directly into the cylinder from above the piston. So your gasoline that has detergents never gets to pass over the air intake valves, keeping them constantly clean. You have to directly access your valves to scrape off the carbon buildup physically.

BTW, does anyone have photos of carbon buildup on an N54? I've seen it on E39 M5s and of course the god of carbon, the RS4, but I haven't seen how bad it can get on our cars.
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      05-24-2011, 11:32 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Edward View Post
guys, deposits form because gasoline is sprayed directly into the cylinder from above the piston. So your gasoline that has detergents never gets to pass over the air intake valves, keeping them constantly clean. You have to directly access your valves to scrape off the carbon buildup physically.

BTW, does anyone have photos of carbon buildup on an N54? I've seen it on E39 M5s and of course the god of carbon, the RS4, but I haven't seen how bad it can get on our cars.
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