[NewBMWDriver]

I need help. Recently when I started the car it took few seconds longer than normal, and today the car doesn't start at all.

When I press the brake and start button, I hear it trying to start then right away all of the electronics shuts off. It feeling like losing power or something. The interior lights, gauge, and all other displays turns off and after few seconds they come back on and the time will display --:-- with a time warning and bunch of other warnings.

The gas gauge move to normal place when its trying to start and then when everything shuts off it goes back to off position.

I checked the voltage at the battery and the terminal in front and I get 12.08V. I tried jump starting it and it did nothing. If I put my key in and hit start without press on brakes, everything seems to work normally, even the time will remain in the memory, and the gas gauge will remain normal. But if I try to start it with press the brake the time will be gone displaying --:--.

Everything is stock, no mods besides new bulbs.

Please HELP


I attached few images.

[Delusive]

I had the same problem before and other members did also, I have a thread that I made which I fixed mines and another members problem.

For me a new battery fixed my issues.

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=714312

[NewBMWDriver]

I looks the similar problem but I never got the battery warning.

Here is the video:

EDIT: Another video

[NewBMWDriver]

Now the car is rattling really bad at around 1.5k to 2k RPM. When I started the car today the car sounded really bad and it started rattling. When I start driving it feels like its struggling to move when the RPM is at 1.5k to 2k and once the RPM is pass 2k it starts moving and feeling like normal. It rattling when it goes back down to less then 2k RPM and when stopped or idle.

PLEASE HELP

[smallseafishie]

did you replace your battery? If so, did you register the battery?

[NewBMWDriver]

Didn't replace the battery yet because AAA got it jumped it started and I was about to go get it replace today after work then this happen, so I left it at home before something else happens.

All of the sudden, the car started shaking the moment I started this morning and the "Engine Service soon" light came on. My car is drivable and I don't feel any problem when I'm above 2k RPM but when the car is in idle position, the entire shakes and I felt like the car engine is about to shut off.

[ctuna]

Get a code readout.
If you are on the original battery it needs changing .
And maybe you have bad coil packs or spark plugs to .
Get it fixed or risk damage to your engine.
Replace the battery first and see if it clears up the other
stuff. You could try putting the battery on a trickle charger
to see if it would bring it back to life for a little while .

[NewBMWDriver]

Thank ctuna.

I'm planning on getting a CanOBD II code reader today so i can get the readout and figure out from there what the problem is.

[ctuna]

If things are underpowered voltage wise you may get strange readouts.

[jvsxn]

Like what ctuna stated earlier, if you're on your first battery (from the factory) it'll need to be replaced. They'll typically last you for 4-5 years but I guess that varies on location and usage. All those lights will pop up because your car requires a certain amount of power to power all the modules. For me, my restraint system and airbag light went off and for the record, my Bimmer is an '06 and I just replaced the battery at 68.8k.

[NewBMWDriver]

Thanks.

I'm bringing it in to Sears and getting my batteries replace and maybe they can run the test to make sure everything else is ok.

[ctuna]

This brings up the subject of battery registration
and battery installation .
Go to an Indy if possible to change the battery .
If you go anywhere else do not use battery back up
when changing the battery it can blow fuses.
Registration(as in registering the battery) is a process of reseting the battery charging software so that it adjusts the charging rate for the new battery properly. It can be done by a Dealer, and INdy , with coding setup or a Bav Tek tool.

[NewBMWDriver]

I might be buying Bav Tek Tool so I might do the coding once new battery is installed. But shouldn't sears have the option to do all of this coding?

[ctuna]

And the battery change can be bungled by the common places
you get them. Blown Fuses do to the use of a battery backup device are common. Independent BMW shops can do this with and Autologic
Unit with the proper software .

A coding setup is the cheapest way to do this .

Read the battery change in the DIY sub forum and go to the coding
section to look into getting a coding setup. Its the cheapest way to get
diags and the ability to code your car and it has no restrictions.

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=480261

http://www.e90post.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=16

BMW I think is the only company with this kind of battery setup its
one of the lame things about the car that and runflats.

Also they should give you a charger with the car.
Because its a battery hog . A lot of people have battery trouble it they don't drive the car on the highway enough or leave it
setting for extended amounts of time.

[Chriztofor]

I suspect it is your battery. AAA put enough juice through the system that it can wake the dead.

Just because the lights are on doesn't mean it has enough juice to start the car. The battery needs to be load tested. You should buy one of these http://www.harborfreight.com/100-amp...ter-90636.html. Note: you load test when the car is not running. You place it on the terminals in your ENGINE bay and then flick a switch. The needle will point to "bad" if it fails. It also can be used while the car is running to check the alternator, but DON'T flick that switch.

[Chriztofor]

Originally Posted by ctuna

And the battery change can be bungled by the common places
you get them. Blown Fuses do to the use of a battery backup device are common. Independent BMW shops can do this with and Autologic
Unit with the proper software .

A coding setup is the cheapest way to do this .

Read the battery change in the DIY sub forum and go to the coding
section to look into getting a coding setup. Its the cheapest way to get
diags and the ability to code your car and it has no restrictions.

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=480261

http://www.e90post.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=16

There is even a cheaper way to register the battery. http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=727091. Just buy the cable and install the free software. Plug-n-play. But need to replace the battery with the same type if battery. The link i provided doesnt allow you to change the settings of the battery, ie: Amp rating.

[ctuna]

If its black or yellow its pretty much time to change it.

The coding setup is unlimited in every way and the only cost
if for the cable . It does require that you be careful and know what your doing though.

[Chriztofor]

Originally Posted by ctuna

If its black or yellow its pretty much time to change it.

The coding setup is unlimited in every way and the only cost
if for the cable . It does require that you be careful and know what your doing though.

I tried coding, but was unable to install the software correctly. Sold the cable to someone on here. But the link i provided claims plug-n-play. I just purchased an $8 cable on amazon, should get it by next week, we will see.

[RedRaiderDavid]

Thats typical behavior of a battery with a dead cell. It will register 12V and will even show fully charged if put on a charger but it doesn't have enough amps to turn the car over, a load test will confirm that. I've had other vehicles not run right when the battery dies as well.

[ctuna]

But I had to do a lot of work. I ended up coding the windows to go up with the keyfob and the air conditioner not to turn on with the auto button.
I have also run diags on the car with DIS57.

[Chriztofor]

Originally Posted by ctuna

But I had to do a lot of work. I ended up coding the windows to go up with the keyfob and the air conditioner not to turn on with the auto button.
I have also run diags on the car with DIS57.

Definitely not against trying to code the car. I just wanted to warn the OP that it is not plug-n-play. The link I provided is supposedly easy, plug-n-play, but limited in its use.

[NewBMWDriver]

Just got the car back from sears. They were able to determine that my battery was dead/bad and replaced it with a new one and now it starts up normally.

There also were able to check out my check engine light but they were not able to fix it . They said I need to bring the car into the dealer. The error code they said was "P0301" Cylinder 1 misfire.


The new warnings I get when I start the car:


"Flat Tire Monitor failed. Punctures are not indicated" - I guess I have to reset the INIT?


"Drive-off assistant has failed. The car will not be held in place after the brake is released." - What does this mean???


"Suspension control system failed" - What does this mean?

The last image is new. This is the first time I got this warning sign.