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BMW 3-Series (E90 E92) Forum > BMW E90/E92/E93 3-series General Forums > General E90 Sedan / E91 Wagon / E92 Coupe / E93 Cabrio > Advice for a first time 325i buyer



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      08-23-2012, 01:27 AM   #1
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Advice for a first time 325i buyer

Hello, I am looking to purchase a 2006 325i in the next month and would appropriated any advice in purchasing from the members.

I would like to get a 6 speed manual but they seem so rare.....
I have driven my friends steptronic 2008 and it is ok, but feels kind of like driving a video game.

I am new to the world of BMW, is there anything specific I should look for when looking at used 325's? tips? I plan to take the car in for a pre-sale inspection before the purchase but wanted to know if there was any advice or known issues with this car I should be aware of?


also what kind of real world MPG do you 325i owners get?
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      08-23-2012, 03:17 AM   #2
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I have had my 06 325i for about 6 months now, i got it with 38k miles on it and now has 46k so far then only problems i had was ignition coils (easy fix), A/C blower resistor, and sounds like my door actuator are going out. As far as MPG it does pretty good on the highway now for street its alright not the best but then again it all depends on how you drive lol.
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      08-23-2012, 05:59 AM   #3
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Maybe I can help. I own a E90 '06 325i since new and it just turned 186,000 miles yesterday. I've also owned BMWs for about 25 years now. I do most of all my own maintenance. I few observations:

BMWs are expensive cars to maintain; it's better if you can do most the maintenance and repairs as DIY projects. This Forum is a great resource for DIY info.

If you've owned Japanese cars and expect the same level of reliability because BMWs are more expensive and not an American brand, don't. BMWs are not as reliable as Japanese cars nor American cars built in the last 8 - 12 years or so. I've met many a former BMW owner that bought a BMW, either new or used, that just couldn't deal with the repairs, and expense of maintenance.

BMWs will do weird things like randomly show a fault on a system, do it a few times, then never do it again. BMWs are consistant in problems, meaning that if it happens in one model car, like a '06 325i, it will happen in most all other cars built of the same year. This is both good and bad, as you know there is a high probability it will happen to your car, but it's good because someone before has been through it and can give good information.

If you take your BWM to be repaired or get maintenance done, only take it to a trained BMW repair specialist; any other mechanic (not familiar with BMWs) will screw it up.

Make sure you know that in 2006, the 325 came in two guises, the E90 325i 4-door sedan, and the 325iC the last year of the E46 325 2-door coupe; they are completely different cars (i.e. different base chassis).

Any car with high mileage (100,000+) will require more cost to repair and maintain (this is true regardless of brand).

All that said, the E90 325i is a very reliable car in my experience at least. The only repair I had to make that I'd call outside the norm was my AC compressor seized at around 75,000 miles. Depending on mileage what you can expect to happen with a '06 E90 is:

The water pump will fail somewhere around 100,000 miles.
The T-stat will fail as well (most people replace both at the same time).
The HVAC blower motor will need to be replaced.
The steering lock will act up (but by now most cars have had this repaired under warranty or the problem corrected itself).
You'll probably need to replace a window motor at some point.
You'll want to replace the run flat tires with regular tires.
You'll question BMW's maintenance requirements and decide for no good reason that 15,000 mile oil changes are too long, and coolant, diff and trans fluids are NOT "lifetime" (and they are not; BMW calls for them to be changed at 100,000 miles - you'll think that's too long as well).

My advice is stick with finding a manual transmission car. The automatics are less trouble free than the manuals; the less the options the better - less stuff to break. Try to find one with the sport package because the seats are better and the suspension is better than the standard setup.

And most important: make sure the car you buy has the complete set of owner’s manuals (they should be in the right side of the trunk in a black leather case in a recess in the battery tray cover) and that you get both keys. The keys are very expensive to replace. Make it a point of the sale that the seller provide the manuals and both keys.

If you are going to DIY, then invest in the Bentley service/repair manual and a BMW-specific scan tool.

And lastly, please read the owner’s manual, it will answer 80% of the questions you will have and want to ask of the Forum members (which have been answered time and time again).

Last edited by Efthreeoh; 08-24-2012 at 05:55 AM..
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      09-05-2012, 05:50 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Efthreeoh View Post
Maybe I can help. I own a E90 '06 325i since new and it just turned 186,000 miles yesterday. I've also owned BMWs for about 25 years now. I do most of all my own maintenance. I few observations:

BMWs are expensive cars to maintain; it's better if you can do most the maintenance and repairs as DIY projects. This Forum is a great resource for DIY info.

If you've owned Japanese cars and expect the same level of reliability because BMWs are more expensive and not an American brand, don't. BMWs are not as reliable as Japanese cars nor American cars built in the last 8 - 12 years or so. I've met many a former BMW owner that bought a BMW, either new or used, that just couldn't deal with the repairs, and expense of maintenance.

BMWs will do weird things like randomly show a fault on a system, do it a few times, then never do it again. BMWs are consistant in problems, meaning that if it happens in one model car, like a '06 325i, it will happen in most all other cars built of the same year. This is both good and bad, as you know there is a high probability it will happen to your car, but it's good because someone before has been through it and can give good information.

If you take your BWM to be repaired or get maintenance done, only take it to a trained BMW repair specialist; any other mechanic (not familiar with BMWs) will screw it up.

Make sure you know that in 2006, the 325 came in two guises, the E90 325i 4-door sedan, and the 325iC the last year of the E46 325 2-door coupe; they are completely different cars (i.e. different base chassis).

Any car with high mileage (100,000+) will require more cost to repair and maintain (this is true regardless of brand).

All that said, the E90 325i is a very reliable car in my experience at least. The only repair I had to make that I'd call outside the norm was my AC compressor seized at around 75,000 miles. Depending on mileage what you can expect to happen with a '06 E90 is:

The water pump will fail somewhere around 100,000 miles.
The T-stat will fail as well (most people replace both at the same time).
The HVAC blower motor will need to be replaced.
The steering lock will act up (but by now most cars have had this repaired under warranty or the problem corrected itself).
You'll probably need to replace a window motor at some point.
You'll want to replace the run flat tires with regular tires.
You'll question BMW's maintenance requirements and decide for no good reason that 15,000 mile oil changes are too long, and coolant, diff and trans fluids are NOT "lifetime" (and they are not; BMW calls for them to be changed at 100,000 miles - you'll think that's too long as well).

My advice is stick with finding a manual transmission car. The automatics are less trouble free than the manuals; the less the options the better - less stuff to break. Try to find one with the sport package because the seats are better and the suspension is better than the standard setup.

And most important: make sure the car you buy has the complete set of owner’s manuals (they should be in the right side of the trunk in a black leather case in a recess in the battery tray cover) and that you get both keys. The keys are very expensive to replace. Make it a point of the sale that the seller provide the manuals and both keys.

If you are going to DIY, then invest in the Bentley service/repair manual and a BMW-specific scan tool.

And lastly, please read the owner’s manual, it will answer 80% of the questions you will have and want to ask of the Forum members (which have been answered time and time again).


Thank you!

Good to hear you have had good luck with your car so far!

Yes I have always been a Japanese car owner. I have a Tacoma and am an active member on TacomaWorld.com I just sold my car an Acura Integra and am using that money as the down payment on the BMW. I was super glad to see such an active e90 Forum because I know how helpful and fun it is to have that suport.

yes I know I am looking for an e90 4 door

I got a chance to drive my friends car again, and decided I definitely want an MT. The auto feels disconnected from the road, to soft. I enjoy driving and want a car that is fun and responsive. Neither of which I got from auto. No matter what I did I could never feel the slightest bit of acceleration even when I was straight abusing the steptronic. I am going to test drive a MT soon and hope that is more fun!


I enjoy doing DIY work and have a pretty good set of tools but will need to invest in a code scanner.

I will make sure I get a full set of Manuals and keys with the car.

I appreciate the advice! keep it coming! anyone with MPG?
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      09-05-2012, 11:35 PM   #5
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Right now on my 325i im getting 21.1 MPG and thats streets,k on highway it is pretty good for being an I6. The highest i got was 28.7 and that was on a 1000 mile freeway trip. So gas is not that bad with this car, but also depends on your driving style lol.
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      09-05-2012, 11:50 PM   #6
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That long post nailed it. Also, you will most likely need to replace the battery on an 06 if it is still running on the original set. Check for leaks of course while it's being inspected. I bought mine towards the back end of things so I needed to get all of the items mentioned above done.

I also used to drive an Integra way back when. Best car ever, should have kept it as a DD. Regret it every time the BMW is in the shop, lol.

In regards to mpg. Street driving sucks but highway is good. I average about 25mpg with $200 bucks in gas per month to strictly drive to work, 18 minutes commute. I love the car but at times I hate the car, usually after having to pay a repair bill. Price to play
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      09-05-2012, 11:54 PM   #7
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Why not get the e90 330? I had an 06 for last 4 years, trade in w/ 90k, no real issues. Great daily driver, and fairly quick when needed.
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      09-06-2012, 12:15 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2ndname View Post
That long post nailed it. Also, you will most likely need to replace the battery on an 06 if it is still running on the original set. Check for leaks of course while it's being inspected. I bought mine towards the back end of things so I needed to get all of the items mentioned above done.

I also used to drive an Integra way back when. Best car ever, should have kept it as a DD. Regret it every time the BMW is in the shop, lol.

In regards to mpg. Street driving sucks but highway is good. I average about 25mpg with $200 bucks in gas per month to strictly drive to work, 18 minutes commute. I love the car but at times I hate the car, usually after having to pay a repair bill. Price to play
what issues have you had with your 325i?
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      09-06-2012, 12:36 AM   #9
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The two issues I worry about a little

Head Bolt Breakage is common in the 325 and 330 they are made of aluminum because of the magnesium head the frequency they break at I don't know but its a design problem.
The other is valve ticking there is a whole sticky at the top of this page that goes back to 06. Also a design issue.
I would look under the oil filler cap for sludge build up from the 15k plus oil
changes .
Hold out for a manual if you like to drive you will always regret getting a automatic.
If you are getting an 06 you might as well get a 330 they both are 3 liter motors the 325 is just detuned and doesn't have a three stage intake.
Almost no difference if any in MPG.s
Also all 330's come with BMW's best sound system.
Which doesn't suck like the other two .
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      09-06-2012, 10:10 AM   #10
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Get a 330 manual.
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      09-06-2012, 02:32 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LegendGary View Post
what issues have you had with your 325i?
Water pump and thermostat combo
Coolant burst, unsure wth happened
Radiator fan needed to be replaced
Brake sensors became faulty
Belt tensioner needed to be replaced
Currently in the shop for an oil pan gasket, wtf at 70 dollar parts and 7 hours labor to get into it...
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      09-06-2012, 04:34 PM   #12
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All of these guys are spot on. I have the '06 325i and now have 1116xx miles. I love it. Although it would have been nice to get the 330i because it's quicker, the 325i was in my price range. I have changed the water pump and t stat and saved well over a grand by doing it myself. I also replaced the top rubber seals on the windshield as they become brittle and start to break off in pieces. I have started learning to code my car as well because my car was made in august of 2005 and didn't get the regular options in my dash to change daytime running lights and some others. I also use the software for engine diagnostics. My total cost for that was $40 to my door.

Currently, I have a slow oil leak. It's common oil leaks come from the valve cover, a $40 fix roughly. I am hoping it's not from the oil pan because the sub frame has to be removed to get the oil pan completely off.

Aside from all of this I really wish that the e90s came with limited slip differentials from the factory. We all have open diffs. If you get a manual transmission you can easily gear down to 3.56 (?) by buying a used automatic differential for 300-500 from what i've seen.
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      09-06-2012, 08:02 PM   #13
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i have a 325i as well and its been bullet proof. i love it and i would highly recommend it
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      09-06-2012, 08:20 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DFW_E90_325i View Post
All of these guys are spot on. I have the '06 325i and now have 1116xx miles. I love it. Although it would have been nice to get the 330i because it's quicker, the 325i was in my price range. I have changed the water pump and t stat and saved well over a grand by doing it myself. I also replaced the top rubber seals on the windshield as they become brittle and start to break off in pieces. I have started learning to code my car as well because my car was made in august of 2005 and didn't get the regular options in my dash to change daytime running lights and some others. I also use the software for engine diagnostics. My total cost for that was $40 to my door.

Currently, I have a slow oil leak. It's common oil leaks come from the valve cover, a $40 fix roughly. I am hoping it's not from the oil pan because the sub frame has to be removed to get the oil pan completely off.

Aside from all of this I really wish that the e90s came with limited slip differentials from the factory. We all have open diffs. If you get a manual transmission you can easily gear down to 3.56 (?) by buying a used automatic differential for 300-500 from what i've seen.

How did the replacement of the windshield rubber seal go? Was it troublesome? Because I can't find a DIY
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      09-06-2012, 08:51 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DFW_E90_325i View Post
All of these guys are spot on. I have the '06 325i and now have 1116xx miles. I love it. Although it would have been nice to get the 330i because it's quicker, the 325i was in my price range. I have changed the water pump and t stat and saved well over a grand by doing it myself. I also replaced the top rubber seals on the windshield as they become brittle and start to break off in pieces. I have started learning to code my car as well because my car was made in august of 2005 and didn't get the regular options in my dash to change daytime running lights and some others. I also use the software for engine diagnostics. My total cost for that was $40 to my door.

Currently, I have a slow oil leak. It's common oil leaks come from the valve cover, a $40 fix roughly. I am hoping it's not from the oil pan because the sub frame has to be removed to get the oil pan completely off.

Aside from all of this I really wish that the e90s came with limited slip differentials from the factory. We all have open diffs. If you get a manual transmission you can easily gear down to 3.56 (?) by buying a used automatic differential for 300-500 from what i've seen.
LOL, that's right, window seal!! Forgot about that. Mine also became brittle and currently waiting to be replaced. The part is currently in the garage waiting for a replacement.

Hopefully your slow leak is the valve cover. I had mine inspected by 2 shops, it's the damn oil pan. 2 day job to get that sonofa$*&* replaced. Labor = $700 bucks.
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      09-06-2012, 09:11 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fillyo75 View Post
Why not get the e90 330? I had an 06 for last 4 years, trade in w/ 90k, no real issues. Great daily driver, and fairly quick when needed.
+1
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      09-06-2012, 11:53 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by manutdas11 View Post
How did the replacement of the windshield rubber seal go? Was it troublesome? Because I can't find a DIY
Not too troublesome. It takes some finesse to get it in completely. There's a DIY somewhere. I'll see if i can find it. In the mean-time i'll do my best to explain.

You have to carefully scrape the old seal off, make sure the surface is nice and clean.

The back part of the seal sits in a groove, make sure it's clean and free of old debris.

The new part comes with the sticky backing. Keep it on while you push and slide the part into place (I used a rubber mallet at times). Peeling off the tape is the last step. When you're done, grab one end of the tape and peel it off and push down so it seals to the roof completely.
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      09-07-2012, 12:10 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DFW_E90_325i View Post
Not too troublesome. It takes some finesse to get it in completely. There's a DIY somewhere. I'll see if i can find it. In the mean-time i'll do my best to explain.

You have to carefully scrape the old seal off, make sure the surface is nice and clean.

The back part of the seal sits in a groove, make sure it's clean and free of old debris.

The new part comes with the sticky backing. Keep it on while you push and slide the part into place (I used a rubber mallet at times). Peeling off the tape is the last step. When you're done, grab one end of the tape and peel it off and push down so it seals to the roof completely.

Alright, cool thanks!
That helps out! Mine is already cracking and I want to replace it.
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      09-08-2012, 01:55 AM   #19
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I recently had the oil pan gasket problem... cost me $800 in labor n parts.

Right now i have a small leak in my oil pump and the t-stat is faulty as well. Sucks that i don't have the funds on hand to take care of this stuff right now because of preparation for school...

some other odd things i don't think have been mentioned are the Seat belt/Air bag alarm... it's a recall item though. I think that if you don't want to replace it, you can code it out.
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      09-08-2012, 02:53 AM   #20
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Originally Posted by N0OS3 View Post
I recently had the oil pan gasket problem... cost me $800 in labor n parts.

Right now i have a small leak in my oil pump and the t-stat is faulty as well. Sucks that i don't have the funds on hand to take care of this stuff right now because of preparation for school...

some other odd things i don't think have been mentioned are the Seat belt/Air bag alarm... it's a recall item though. I think that if you don't want to replace it, you can code it out.
Just found out that after an oil pan gasket replacement it's recommended that you get an alignment. Add another $100 on top of whatever was quoted. The car has been with the shop for 2 days...

However, getting an alignment once a year is good anyways so if possible, time it around the same time.
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      09-08-2012, 07:40 PM   #21
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There's a DIY where this guy changes the gasket without removing the sub frame. He cuts the gasket into 2 parts or so, carefully scrapes the old gasket off and fits the new one on and fills the gaps with some kind of liquid gasket. ATV maybe
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      09-08-2012, 07:43 PM   #22
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I would go for a 330i...

I drove the same engine in 1series and enjoyed 5.5 years
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