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      08-31-2012, 10:59 PM   #1
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Another 335i transmission leak

Round 2 is coming up for transmission leak repair. Mine was leaking at the sleeve, so I bought a new sleeve, new pan/gasket, and the BMW fluid. Took care of that last weekend. All was fine for two days and then a leak showed up again. Took a quick peek last night and the area around the sleeve is totally dry...I have a leak at the rear of the pan! All bolts were torqued to spec, all clean when reassembled.

I'm going to drop the pan and use a little "The Right Stuff" around the perimeter on Sunday. The pan gasket looked about worthless and in my case, it apparently is.

Just thought I'd share my pain.
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      09-01-2012, 01:46 AM   #2
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My sleeve was giving me slow leak which I drove for months, then one day it finally starting spilling a lot so I got it done. My brother-in-law actually worked on it while I was at work, he said the sleeve was so loose when he was pulling it out, the sleeve just slipped out because the O-ring was so flat. Got the updated part in all black so hopefully it will last a long time.

Picture made me laugh


He said putting the new one in was a pain since it was so tight, that assures me it wont be leaking
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      09-01-2012, 08:35 PM   #3
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The sleeve on mine was leaking previously. With the new sleeve installed...total PIA to reach btw...it's dry as a bone. The latest leak is around the rear perimeter of the new pan and gasket. The transmission pan gasket is about the most worthless looking gasket I've seen.
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      09-02-2012, 04:45 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 96GS#007 View Post
The sleeve on mine was leaking previously. With the new sleeve installed...total PIA to reach btw...it's dry as a bone. The latest leak is around the rear perimeter of the new pan and gasket. The transmission pan gasket is about the most worthless looking gasket I've seen.
Had round two on my 2008, this is a pricey job if the stealership does it.
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      09-03-2012, 03:21 PM   #5
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Dropped the transmission pan yesterday morning. Using CRC Brake Clean, I cleaned the perimeter of the transmission. Next I removed the gasket from the pan and cleaned the perimeter of the pan and the groove the gasket fits into as well. Lastly, I cleaned up the new gasket and reinstalled it into the pan.

With the cleaning tasks taken care of, I ran a bead of "The Right Stuff" around the perimeter of the pan and then reassembled everything.

I put ~100 miles on the car since completing this yesterday afternoon, and so far all is dry
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      09-04-2012, 02:29 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by 96GS#007 View Post
Dropped the transmission pan yesterday morning. Using CRC Brake Clean, I cleaned the perimeter of the transmission. Next I removed the gasket from the pan and cleaned the perimeter of the pan and the groove the gasket fits into as well. Lastly, I cleaned up the new gasket and reinstalled it into the pan.

With the cleaning tasks taken care of, I ran a bead of "The Right Stuff" around the perimeter of the pan and then reassembled everything.

I put ~100 miles on the car since completing this yesterday afternoon, and so far all is dry
Did your transmission make any noise after you refilled it and took it for a drive? I get this light tapping sound in reverse when I get on the gas or when letting the car coast in gear. It's done this to me before, but in a week it went away. Thought maybe the fluid needed to get into all the area. Or maybe my tranny is going bad :/
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      09-05-2012, 04:53 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by blingman View Post
Did your transmission make any noise after you refilled it and took it for a drive? I get this light tapping sound in reverse when I get on the gas or when letting the car coast in gear. It's done this to me before, but in a week it went away. Thought maybe the fluid needed to get into all the area. Or maybe my tranny is going bad :/
Nope, no tapping noise. Had just a very slight whine for the first 30 seconds or so as the fluid worked it's way through the transmission but it's been fine every since.
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      09-05-2012, 05:08 PM   #8
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Picture made me laugh
It's funnier if you look at it right:
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      11-17-2012, 08:41 AM   #9
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picture of the sealing sleeve - with electronic connection removed.

Looking for some help friends regarding changing the sealing sleeve... I have a BMW E92 320d 2008 (I am in UK in case you living in NA are not familiar with the 'Diesel variants' we drive here Just recently, I detected a leak underneath the car around the transmission so decided to have a look. I lifted the car up and noted (after removing the plastic shield) that leak was around the sump but not all around it - the front (towards the engine) was dry and leak was more towards the back - which to me indicates that leak is coming from the Mechatronics sealing sleeve. So without removing the Sump, I drained the transmission oil, and I unclipped the electrical connection from the sealing sleeve and tried hand pulling it out but couldn't!

I am planning to change the following:

a) Sump gasket
b) Mechatronics Sealing Sleeve
c) Transmission oil

I would be very great full you 'experts' here can provide some guidance on how to remove the sealing sleeve and the sequence I should follow I tried searching the web but there is no 'clear' DIY which describes the exact sequence of removing the sealing sleeve. What I want to understand specially are the following:

Is the sealing sleeve 'locked in' and comes out only with some special tool? Or, I need to remove the sump first, and unlock the sealing sleeve from the inside (if there is lock at all holding it in)? I have already bought the new sealing sleeve and by the look, it doesnt seem to be a simple 'pull out and push new in scenario' Please see the link below which is the closest guide on removing the sealing sleeve:

http://tis.spaghetticoder.org/s/view.pl?1/07/89/80

1- On the link, there is a mention of 'special tool' # 24 2 390 (see fig 2) - so is this the tool which is going to unlock the sealing sleeve and would bring it out - OR,

2- The figure 3 on the link refers to 'unlocking the sealing sleeve' - it looks like there is lock inside which holds the sealing sleeve and would only be visible after removing the sump and unlocking this would bring the sealing sleeve out? and perhaps the tool (mentioned in 1 above) is just to hold and rotate the sealing sleeve for ease once it is unlocked and ready to be pulled out? I am all confused mate - all I want to avoid is the undue force which could cause other damage as the sealing sleeve have some electronic connections so I am playing safe I don't want to break anything!

Since you guys have had recent experiences, I hope you would be able to answer this with ease.

I would wait for a reply..
Many thanks in advance.

Usman.
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Last edited by ushafiq; 11-17-2012 at 08:55 AM.. Reason: Picture added
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      11-17-2012, 09:46 AM   #10
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I PM you. You have to drop the pan. There is a locking white tab that needs to be pulled down before the sleeve can come out.
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      11-17-2012, 10:11 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blingman View Post
I PM you. You have to drop the pan. There is a locking white tab that needs to be pulled down before the sleeve can come out.
This is correct. I then used a flat head to help pry it out. Such a messy DIY, but worth it compared to getting ripped off at the stealer.
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      11-17-2012, 10:29 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bimmertt View Post
This is correct. I then used a flat head to help pry it out. Such a messy DIY, but worth it compared to getting ripped off at the stealer.
Yeah I had help and used a small pry bar and once it comes out, you would turn the sleeve to fully get it out.
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      11-17-2012, 10:33 AM   #13
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Follow this DIY http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...ssion+leak+diy
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      02-02-2015, 11:46 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ushafiq View Post
Looking for some help friends regarding changing the sealing sleeve... I have a BMW E92 320d 2008 (I am in UK in case you living in NA are not familiar with the 'Diesel variants' we drive here Just recently, I detected a leak underneath the car around the transmission so decided to have a look. I lifted the car up and noted (after removing the plastic shield) that leak was around the sump but not all around it - the front (towards the engine) was dry and leak was more towards the back - which to me indicates that leak is coming from the Mechatronics sealing sleeve. So without removing the Sump, I drained the transmission oil, and I unclipped the electrical connection from the sealing sleeve and tried hand pulling it out but couldn't!

I am planning to change the following:

a) Sump gasket
b) Mechatronics Sealing Sleeve
c) Transmission oil

I would be very great full you 'experts' here can provide some guidance on how to remove the sealing sleeve and the sequence I should follow I tried searching the web but there is no 'clear' DIY which describes the exact sequence of removing the sealing sleeve. What I want to understand specially are the following:

Is the sealing sleeve 'locked in' and comes out only with some special tool? Or, I need to remove the sump first, and unlock the sealing sleeve from the inside (if there is lock at all holding it in)? I have already bought the new sealing sleeve and by the look, it doesnt seem to be a simple 'pull out and push new in scenario' Please see the link below which is the closest guide on removing the sealing sleeve:

http://tis.spaghetticoder.org/s/view.pl?1/07/89/80

1- On the link, there is a mention of 'special tool' # 24 2 390 (see fig 2) - so is this the tool which is going to unlock the sealing sleeve and would bring it out - OR,

2- The figure 3 on the link refers to 'unlocking the sealing sleeve' - it looks like there is lock inside which holds the sealing sleeve and would only be visible after removing the sump and unlocking this would bring the sealing sleeve out? and perhaps the tool (mentioned in 1 above) is just to hold and rotate the sealing sleeve for ease once it is unlocked and ready to be pulled out? I am all confused mate - all I want to avoid is the undue force which could cause other damage as the sealing sleeve have some electronic connections so I am playing safe I don't want to break anything!

Since you guys have had recent experiences, I hope you would be able to answer this with ease.

I would wait for a reply..
Many thanks in advance.

Usman.
When you took this picture had you removed one of the trans mounting brackets for access?
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      02-03-2015, 06:14 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ushafiq View Post
Is the sealing sleeve 'locked in' and comes out only with some special tool? Or, I need to remove the sump first, and unlock the sealing sleeve from the inside (if there is lock at all holding it in)? I have already bought the new sealing sleeve and by the look, it doesnt seem to be a simple 'pull out and push new in scenario' Please see the link below which is the closest guide on removing the sealing sleeve:
I believe there's a sliding tab/pin that keeps the sleeve in place. I'm pretty sure you have to remove the pan to get to the slide mechanism that operates the pin. Maybe someone can verify this.

Last edited by Built My Way; 02-03-2015 at 07:34 AM..
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