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11-12-2015, 09:20 PM | #1 |
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Suggestion for brake bleeding
Hello guys. I am about to receive my new wheels. And I just got brake fluid indicator on the idrive. Car is driven 6k in 2 years and always garage kept. So I want to DIY the brake flush with the hand pump bleeder that I just got from Harbor Freight today.
Some people re bleeding when the master reservoir cap is on some do when it is off. Logically it flows better when the cap is off. So how should I do? And does it worth to get bmw original fluid? I know the differential fluid is worth to get! I am not sure about the DOT 4.
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11-13-2015, 07:01 AM | #2 | |
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11-13-2015, 07:39 AM | #3 |
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I found the reason. why it wont suck proparly is the bottle cover doesnt lock too good so it doesnt seal without pressing. What i did is i used hair tie to get the solid pressure and it worked (look at the first picture)
Last edited by SaNGRia; 11-13-2015 at 07:59 AM.. |
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11-13-2015, 07:48 AM | #4 |
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I went to the auto store for the brake fluid and i got 2 option. Dot 4 LV and super dot 4. I looked the original fluid. It says LV for latest technology so i got the LV. ECSTunning provides super dot 4 for m3s. Whats the deal?
Last edited by SaNGRia; 11-13-2015 at 10:37 AM.. |
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11-13-2015, 08:24 AM | #5 |
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Honestly I would go with the BMW brake fluid. It really is great stuff and the price is comparable to all the other highfalutin stuff. The ALWAYS have it in stock at the local dealer.
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11-13-2015, 08:29 AM | #6 |
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I've been bleeding brakes on all of my cars for 10 years with the traditional 2 man method. I bought that pump ecs sells for the euro cars and it worked so well I was borderline shock. I had to use it on my clutch too because I replaced the slave cylinder and it worked perfectly on that too. I'm never going back to foot pumping.
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11-13-2015, 02:22 PM | #8 |
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I bought this brake bleeder and I can't say enough good things about it. I just open the bleed screw and have my wife continuously pump the brakes while I top off the brake fluid. You can also use it to suck out the old fluid in the reservoir.
http://www.amazon.com/Genesis-Cable-...=brake+bleeder
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11-13-2015, 04:56 PM | #9 |
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11-13-2015, 06:32 PM | #10 | |
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11-13-2015, 11:24 PM | #12 |
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Don't forget to pump the brakes after you're all set and done. It's a scary experience if you don't do so.
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11-16-2015, 10:47 AM | #14 |
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I read that. It shares the same fluid. So is that the same process like brakes? And what do you suggest?
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11-16-2015, 12:35 PM | #15 | |
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I use the Motive pressure bleeder so its easy. Set the bleeder to 14PSI, open the bleeder valve, and wait until the new fluid start starts flowing out.
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11-16-2015, 03:39 PM | #16 | |
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I just ordered the Schwaben tank. So do you have any picture to show me this bleeding valve from your DIY? Thank you for your help
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11-16-2015, 04:43 PM | #17 |
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I recently pressure bled my brakes with the Schwaben. One thing I experienced was the fitting that goes on the fluid reservoir needed to be tightened rather harshly in order not to leak. In order to get a tight enough seal, I had to grab hold of the fluid reservoir so as not to apply a bunch of twist to it - it is a plastic part that is not strongly secured to the brake master. Be sure to check all around the fitting for leaks once you begin.
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11-16-2015, 05:24 PM | #18 | |
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11-16-2015, 06:31 PM | #19 | |
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Test the bleeder to make sure it holds pressure before you start draining. Just pump it to 15psi and see if it holds for 10 min. With the pressure tanks, you dont need to put the brake fluid in the tank. After you remove all the fluid from the reservoir ($.99 turkey baster), top up your reservoir with the new fluid, pressurize the tank, do one wheel, top up the reservoir, and repeat. This will avoid the clean up of the bleeder. I have zero issues with the Motive. Good solid build.
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11-16-2015, 07:29 PM | #20 | |
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http://m3.madrussian.net/diy_brake_bleed.shtml But I did not get the STEP 9! Since we use the pressure tank. Why I am going to do the STEP 9! Other then that I tried to bleed when I had this piece of crap hand pressure tool. And during that time, I did sucked all the old fluide from reservoir and put the new one. So do u think I should go ahead and just use the pressure tank top of it? I did drive 3 miles after this process to test my new wheels! But I am sure it is still pretty new there! So when u set the tank 15 psi, if there is no leak, is that going to stay 15 during bleeding in normal condition? Last question will be, since I will not put any fluid in to the tank, each caliper is getting enough fluid from the reservoir? I just don't want to suck any air by accident! I tired to change the order last minute from ecs, they said we already shipped it! Hope I will not get issue!
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11-17-2015, 07:20 AM | #21 |
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Yeah.. step 8 and 9 seem a bit redundant if you dont allow air to ever get in. Good find though!
20 PSI seems excessive. It worked just fine at 15 PSI. Yeah, set it to 15 (or 20 if you want to follow the madrussian) and just let it sit for a few. Bottom line, your pressure testing the whole system for leaks. If you like what you see go ahead and start bleeding. The reservoir will certainly hold enough to do a corner. I usually buy two liters and bleed more than is needed. Post up some pictures when get to it!
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11-17-2015, 08:01 AM | #22 |
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ECS has a video. Watch it and follow. Like someone else said, you really need to tighten the cap. I didn't and it leaked when I first pumped the bleeder. Just fill it up with brake fluid and get to work on it. I wouldnt bother trying to pressurize without fluid in the bleeder.
This thing is virtually dummy proof. I had my Dad watch it while I opened and closed thd bleeders just in case, but that wasn't necessary. |
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