11-22-2024, 12:03 PM | #1 |
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Stupid Newbie Questions and info for the new BMW Owner
Having driven Hondas/Acuras for over 30 years, I'm learning a few things as I await my new 540i. What else am I missing that those new to BMW might not expect coming from other marques?
1) BMW brand motor oil without a standard viscosity rating, really? I mean, Honda "wanted" you to buy Honda-brand oil, but nobody did. They specified 5w20 or 5w30 or whatever and I could go buy Mobil 1 or Valvoline or whatever. Now all I have for a spec is Longlife-22 Fe++, whatever the heck that means. Does everyone just suck it up and buy the BMW oil? 2) My G60 won't have a dipstick and I'm supposed to wait for an indicator light to add oil? The oil indicator on Hondas was an emergency signal, not to be used for regular maintenance - I just checked the oil with the dipstick once a month. The idea of waiting for the computer to tell me to add oil makes me nervous. Of course, on my prior cars I rarely had to add oil between changes until they hit 100,000 miles or so and I hope my new 540 will be likewise. 3) Special "Star" marked tires? Are these available at independent tire dealers and discount chains or only via a dealer? 4) What else am I blissfully unaware of as a newb which I will soon learn is different when it comes to caring for and maintaining my BMW compared to previous non-BMWs? |
11-22-2024, 03:03 PM | #2 |
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Regarding the tires, BMW's star is not unique among auto brands, several others have their own similar brand-unique designation. You can get them at Tire Rack, etc.
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11-22-2024, 03:46 PM | #3 |
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1) BMW motor oil has viscosity ratings and you don’t have to buy BMW oil. The viscosity is pretty low these days. Like 0W-20 or so. You need to do more research if you’re coming up with BMW oil not having any viscosity rating. It’s not uncommon to be able to buy the appropriate European rated oil at Wally World. But, the fact is BMW oil from the dealer is not much more than at other retailers. Just to be sure, you are aware BMW will do your oil changes for the first three years, right?
2) Yes, it’s stupid that BMW (and many others, including Porsche and Mercedes, and probably Audi) doesn’t have dipsticks anymore. But, you don’t have to wait for the sensor to tell you to add oil. You can check the oil level with the iDrive system anytime you want. I can’t recall ever reading a report of a catastrophic oil level sensor failure. 3) Buying “Star” tires is not a requirement. Unless you are leasing and need new tires before you turn in the car. There are plenty of non-BMW Star tires that are perfectly acceptable for your BMW.
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celsdogg358.50 Llarry21672.50 Vindicator3223.50 Westside Guy7330.50 co_440i181.50 tracer bullet3820.00 M5Rick69819.50 |
11-22-2024, 04:05 PM | #4 | |
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As for oil, there is a lot more to selecting what to run other than viscosity, such as API category. BMW LL-XX is just another one. In all my years I have very rarely bought BMW's branded oil, there are lots of other oils that meet the requirements.
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KIA - '91 E30 325i AT (146k) | '02 E46 325i MT (212k) Bring back the purple M stripe |
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11-23-2024, 04:28 AM | #6 |
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The other way around. Used to be Castrol. Now Shell.
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11-23-2024, 07:49 AM | #7 |
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It’s a good idea to use the iDrive oil level check about once a month, since it seems to get flaky once the oil level is around 2 quarts low. I had an oil leak on the filter housing seal and lost two quarts in less than a day. I knew it was low, but could not get a reading from iDrive.
The iDrive oil level check function would just quit at about 80% of the check, until I put are least one quart in and got the oil up closer to normal. |
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11-23-2024, 07:54 AM | #8 |
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I thought I read that they were switching back to Castrol. But it seems that they just signed an extension with Shell.
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11-23-2024, 08:46 AM | #9 |
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My 2018 M5 is rated LL-01FE for oil. FE stands for fuel efficiency. I use regular LL-01 oil, which is common BMW spec outside of the US. I also would not hesitate to put non-BMW Star spec tires on my BMWs and usually do, though I make sure the load spec is correct. The mist important thing is finding a good mechanic if you do not want to pay high dealer prices for work. I mostly DIY.
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11-23-2024, 10:12 AM | #10 |
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Thanks, all. Yes, we have a couple of very well-thought-of local BMW-specialist independent mechanics I can use once the free maintenance period is over.
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11-23-2024, 03:31 PM | #11 |
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I've owned BMWs for over 50-years and sold them as a profession for nearly 47-years. My first encounter with the Star-branded tires was when a customer who was notoriously cheap took his E34 to the local Michelin dealer and came back with his four new tires complaining of a handling or "feel" issue with his car. I checked for the star and, when not seeing it, checked the sidewall for a description of the tire construction. Even though it was the same style of Michelin as what came off the car as OE, and even though it had the same speed-rating, the construction description molded into the sidewall showed two-fewer plies in the sidewall on the non-star Michelin (four plies versus six). Obviously enough of a difference to change the slip-angle of the car when using the non-star tire. He took it back to the local Michelin dealer and they got him the correct starred Michelins and was happy again.
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11-23-2024, 08:31 PM | #12 | |
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11-23-2024, 08:57 PM | #13 |
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Hi,
I am new here. I recently bought a 2025 X5 40i M for my wife. We are considering buying a X5 M too. Do you know what suspension is with the M? do you know where to look at the site? I wanted to see if people had problems with the more sophisticated version. I think it has an air component. We just got rid of a 2012 Mercedes that lots of problems with the air suspension once it was a couple of years old. I do not want any of those issues. |
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11-23-2024, 08:59 PM | #14 |
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Hi,
I am new here I recently bought a 2025 X5 40i M for my wife. We are considering buying a X5 M too. Do you know what suspension is with the M? Do you know where to look at the site? I wanted to see if people had problems with the more sophisticated version. I think it has an air component. |
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11-24-2024, 09:48 AM | #15 | |
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When the time comes that my M8 no longer qualifies for free service I'll still have it serviced at the BMW dealer and filled with BMW oil. My feeling is why use my nice (and $$$) car as a test bed to try to find suitable alternative oils? Life's too short to try to fix what ain't broke... The electronic oil level measuring system checks the oil level on its own. But as has been my habit now for years with a new car I'll check the oil level more often -- just to confirm the engine is not experiencing abnormal oil loss, and I check the oil level at every fill up. I don't want to wait for the system to flag a low oil level to the point I have to add oil. If the level is dropping I want to know ASAP. And I carry spare oil so I can top the oil level up then make arrangements to get the car in and have this oil level drop investigated. When I changed my own oil -- this in my Porsche cars which also were fitted with an electronic oil level measuring system -- I would follow the service manual drain instructions then add the right amount of oil then start the engine -- after counting the empty oil bottles *twice* -- and check carefully for leaks then back the car off the ramps and let the engine idle. I'd clean up then check the oil level to ensure the electronic oil system system reported the oil was level was where I expected it to be (at full) given I had put in the called for amount of oil. If one changes his car's oil he has to be aware the electronic oil level system is *not* really designed to report how much oil is in the engine much beyond full. Thus one must be very careful to add just the right amount of oil but no more. Now with my BMWs I don't service them myself but I still check the oil level after a dealer service not because I don't trust the tech but rather to be sure the electronic oil level measuring system oil level reading agrees the oil level is correct. Signs of a problem with this system is no reading or a fluctuating reading. Have not had to buy tires for my BMWs yet, but when it came time to buy tires for my Porsche cars -- which were marked for use on Porsche cars by the presence of an "N0", "N1", and so on (the N was the Porsche equivalent to the BMW star the number was the tire generation number) my local Porsche dealer sold me tires at the same price I could get them from say Tire Rack. When the time comes to get tires for my BMW I'll get them at the local dealer. The service department is well experienced changing tires on cars/vehicles with *expensive* wheels. It knows how to properly lift the vehicle and by how much to tighten the wheel lug nuts/bolts. (I had to run out of the waiting room to stop an indy tire store "tech" from lifting my Boxster by putting a hydraulic jack under the bottom of the front trunk -- which was not suitable for lifting the car! This after the manager had assured me his guys knew how to replace the tires on my Boxster.) As with my other cars same with my BMWs. I'll just follow the factory service/maintenance schedule. This includes besides oil/filter, engine air filter, cabin air filter, brake fluid flush/bleed, and with more miles spark plugs, whatever the factory service schedule calls for and when. |
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11-27-2024, 01:23 AM | #17 |
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You made a good switch.
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Yesterday, 12:03 PM | #18 |
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The thing that surprised me the most was that you can't just go buy a Sears DieHard battery (like I did) and expect it to work correctly. A service center has to "register" the battery, or something like that.
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Yesterday, 12:24 PM | #19 |
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Thanks, I'd be interested to hear more about the battery. What's the deal there? So you can still use a national-brand aftermarket battery, but with this added "registration" step, or you can't even use one? Can I do the "registration" myself or does it have to be a dealer?
And now that I've started perusing the owners manual while I await delivery, am I correct that there's no maintenance schedule like I'm used to with Honda (e.g., change oil every X miles, change transmission fluid every Y miles, change spark plugs every Z miles) and it's replaced with "your car will tell you what you need when you need it (kind of like a surprise!) and will even book an appointment at the dealer for you"? |
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Yesterday, 12:43 PM | #20 |
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The biggest difference between JDM cars and German cars is tolerance.
German cars have no tolerance. They want every last hp/tq/anti-squeak/whatever, and they engineer things to work with other things, so when one thing breaks, it breaks several others. With regards to oil, use Pennzoil Platinum Euro LL04, and make damn sure you don't go past 5K miles. BMW's simply require you to pay much closer attention vs JDM's allowing you to think about everything else but your car. Good Luck. |
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Yesterday, 02:33 PM | #21 | |
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For more of a "long term" ownership maintenance schedule check out Mike Miller's Lifetime Maintenance Schedule. It's a bit dated but, imho, the fundamental principals still apply. I think the big difference of opinion re: maintenance occurs when talking about the "Lifetime Fluids" - like the transmission oil. Most mechanically minded people don't buy into the concept of a "lifetime fluid". |
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Yesterday, 02:58 PM | #22 |
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This is the first I'm hearing of "lifetime fluids" and I have to agree with the skeptics on that one. I'm just checking out the Mike Miller document, thanks for the tip. Glad to see he's a Red Line fan - I used Valvoline/Pennzoil/etc from Walmart for engine oil in my Hondas/Acuras but religiously used Red Line MTL for my manual gearboxes after it worked wonders on a failing clutch (at nearly 200k) miles in my 1992 Civic, 20 years ago. That stuff is magic.
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