[beren]

Originally Posted by M2siast

Coding is the act of connecting to the car using an ENET cable to the OBD port, and using an application to connect to various car modules to change settings (for example, change a setting from inactive to active to enable a feature, such as the B&W sound profiles, or a parameter such as how far the passenger mirror dips when reverse is engaged, from 90% to 70%).

Multiple programs do this. E-Sys is the most famous and powerful one, but it’s hard to obtain and setup, and requires a laptop.

We’ve been using BimmerCode as it’s a simple inexpensive app we install on our phones and use its dummy-proof interface to change settings in the car.
Some people use other apps, such as Bimmer Utility (arguably more powerful than BimmerCode, but potentially less user friendly).

Read a few pages here to see a bit more through our discussion:

https://g87.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=2020230

Thanks! Will check it out. I'm a software engineer so this should be within my capabilities, but there is some hardware involved, d'oh!

Dummy proof, good!

[jessejericho]

Originally Posted by beren

Thanks! Will check it out. I'm a software engineer so this should be within my capabilities, but there is some hardware involved, d'oh!

Dummy proof, good!

I just bought a bluetooth OBD device from Amazon for about $30, works with the Bimmercode app

[motorknut]

Originally Posted by Jaguar

Why is everyone coding this and not just pressing the exhaust button on the center console?

My car is euro spec and has the OPF for emissions. When i hit the exhaust button on the centre console while in default "comfort" mode, it only changes the sound in the cabin. i don't notice any difference in the actual exhaust note outside the car.

In M1 mode, the exhaust note is noticeably louder (from outside the car). When the centre console exhaust button is deactivated in M1, the exhaust note from inside and outside the car goes quieter. this is at idle.

so in my case, it makes a difference coding out ASD cos i may want the exhaust flaps open but not the synthetic piped noise.


i coded out ASD on my previous Supra as well, but the tyre noise was worse than the piped sound and i turned ASD back on...

[NewToM]

Originally Posted by motorknut

My car is euro spec and has the OPF for emissions. When i hit the exhaust button on the centre console while in default "comfort" mode, it only changes the sound in the cabin. i don't notice any difference in the actual exhaust note outside the car.

In M1 mode, the exhaust note is noticeably louder (from outside the car). When the centre console exhaust button is deactivated in M1, the exhaust note from inside and outside the car goes quieter. this is at idle.

so in my case, it makes a difference coding out ASD cos i may want the exhaust flaps open but not the synthetic piped noise.


i coded out ASD on my previous Supra as well, but the tyre noise was worse than the piped sound and i turned ASD back on...

I was playing around with the button after everything was coded off and I did notice a difference. I was under the impression that it also controlled the valves not only ASD. Could be wrong though.

[NewToM]

Originally Posted by M2siast

It controls the valves too. My video shows that. Not in Efficient, but in Sport and Sport+ it does, you can hear the buzzing of the valve moving, not just the difference in sound (which follows).

Thanks for confirming

[apez]

Originally Posted by M2siast

Way back when I posted the video I knew less about the car, I called the button the "valve controller" button. Which is a mistake. As you mentioned, it controls a lot of different things (inside noise, whether the car pops and bangs, the exhaust valves).

Maybe this is why BMW is vague about what it does, and just calls it "M Sound" or something. It'd have to be a nice 4x12 matrix table to show all the possible variations of the button in combination with different situations, people wouldn't follow it, as they'd just ignore it and say "Michelin is best".

I coded out ASD, but definitely have m sound active in M1/M2 modes. To me I think it eliminates a lot of drone but you still get the flap open burbles etc.

It does make me want a midpipe/resonator delete/secondary cat back but I already wanted that.

Anyway, best thing I have coded in/out, but I have not done adaptive headlights yet.

[Chris13002]

Originally Posted by M2siast

The anti-glare high beams is #1

I coded out ASD but I'm coding it back on. I coded it out 3 times already and always go back (sometimes automatically, with a software update). This time it's definitive... Without some aftermarket exhaust, I can't do ASD off... It's just too quiet and boring.

And I have the SST controller with flaps always 100% open. Still...

I thought it was just me who decided to leave ASD on and agree 100% that it’s simply too quiet. Fake or not, I enjoy the “amplified” sounds until I decide on a good aftermarket exhaust. And at least it isn’t 100% fake like the Hyundai IONIC 5 N. That EV is just a joke.

[Ehloo]

newb question here. i have the obd cable from my bootmood tune n my previous M and assuming i just need some adapter to run it on my iphone.

but question is regarding bimmercode. is this a free app? can a non tech savvy complete this without destroying something?

my tuner offers the service but shit if i have the cable already that would be nice to save some bucks

Originally Posted by MASHCT

"Comfort" meaning not M1 or M2. And I mentioned that the stereo upgrade was another reason to code out ASD as it amplified the ASD.

When in any mode, if I press the M sound button I could clearly hear ASD turn off - no more fake engine/exhaust sound through the sound system. Pressing it again to turn it back on, I would clearly hear the rumble back in the sound system. That is what I mean by turning ASD (or M sound) on & off.

Coding it out permanently deactivates it - it removes the activation code from the car's programming. It is 100% disabled so I no longer have to press a button to turn it off. It is off & cannot be turned back on now by pressing the M sound button in the console.

[TallGibbs]

Originally Posted by Ehloo

newb question here. i have the obd cable from my bootmood tune n my previous M and assuming i just need some adapter to run it on my iphone.

but question is regarding bimmercode. is this a free app? can a non tech savvy complete this without destroying something?

my tuner offers the service but shit if i have the cable already that would be nice to save some bucks

The app is free to “demo” and see what options exist but to actually code the changes costs $50.

[Ehloo]

50 bucks a time or one time charge

Originally Posted by TallGibbs

The app is free to “demo” and see what options exist but to actually code the changes costs $50.

[MASHCT]

Originally Posted by Ehloo

50 bucks a time or one time charge

I think it's a one time charge but only for 1 vehicle. If you get rid of your car, and you get another BMW later, you gotta buy it again to code the new car

[fangelov]

I am pretty sure in the US it allows you to code more than one car. I have done both mine and my wife's with it.

[k-m2-j442]

Originally Posted by fangelov

I am pretty sure in the US it allows you to code more than one car. I have done both mine and my wife's with it.

Agreed. I bought it for my supra and use it on the M2 now.

[Ehloo]

finally got around to coding the car. ASD for the focus but ended doing a couple other options including the Bowers sound profile.

with ASD off the car is definitely much quieter inside the cabin. i do have TFL catback exhaust and with ASD on it was pretty loud. Now i can hear the real tone of the exhaust.

paid 50 bucks for the app and already had the cable. well worth it

[yoon_209]

Originally Posted by Ehloo

finally got around to coding the car. ASD for the focus but ended doing a couple other options including the Bowers sound profile.

with ASD off the car is definitely much quieter inside the cabin. i do have TFL catback exhaust and with ASD on it was pretty loud. Now i can hear the real tone of the exhaust.

paid 50 bucks for the app and already had the cable. well worth it

Now you only hear real sound not the fake shit. So much fake sound on idle, shifting, accelerating. Everything