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11-05-2014, 09:04 PM | #1 |
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Does replacing bearings with coated ones void warranty?
My car is coming up on end of warranty in three months. I was going to buy extended warranty, primarily to cover against failure of engine or DCT; however, I was also planning on replacing bearings as preventative measure too.
BUT, then I started to think...won't replacing your bearing with non-oem, coated ones void your warranty if your engine goes in any way? How about if an independent shop does it with oem ones? I would assume both would void warranty?... Now I am wondering...do you just extend warranty and live with the risk hoping that BMW cover you if it goes, or do you not do warranty and replace bearings to manage the risk? |
11-05-2014, 09:07 PM | #3 |
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If you get extended warranty do not touch the bearings until it is over. It's like paying for two insurance policies at the same time with one that invalidates the other. They will almost certainly deny you engine warranty work if they found out you had a shop change the bearings.
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11-05-2014, 09:12 PM | #4 |
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They are OEM, just wpc coated.
If you're going to buy extended warranty to cover power train why not just leave the bearings so you get your money's worth? I understand you want to prevent an issue but that's what warranty is for. Good luck!
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11-05-2014, 09:13 PM | #5 |
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No joke, just me overthinking things, like usual...:-0
That's what I thought...either one or the other, but not both....
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11-05-2014, 09:15 PM | #6 |
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Yeah I understand this is you thinking out loud. But its common knowledge that anytime you open an engine you void the warranty. If you got the extended just drive it until you blow it up. Then you'll get a new engine.
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11-05-2014, 09:16 PM | #7 |
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Treated, not a coating. Agree, don't crack it open unless it's got symptoms.
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11-05-2014, 09:17 PM | #8 | |
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Quote:
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11-05-2014, 09:43 PM | #9 |
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Yeah, some kind of micro-shot-peening treatment. There used to be some sweet videos on their site showing the anti-friction properties.
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11-05-2014, 10:19 PM | #10 |
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This is my plan as well. Going to swap them out once my CPO warranty runs out in '17, unless it happens before that.
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11-05-2014, 10:52 PM | #11 |
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I decided that I'm not buying extended warranty and simply put the money I would have spent on replacing the rod bearings in a couple of years. Just remember, once your warranty expires, you still have the same old rod bearings and you're back to square one. my $.02.
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11-06-2014, 05:54 AM | #14 |
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"Agree, don't crack it open unless it's got symptoms" These are? Would an oil analysis help?
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11-06-2014, 08:11 AM | #15 |
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Rod knock. Oil analysis doesn't help unless you've been doing for several changes.
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11-06-2014, 09:25 AM | #16 |
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11-06-2014, 09:29 AM | #17 |
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Here's a good test>>>
Put car in higher gear at a lower RPM and slightly lugging the engine. Tip into the throttle and if you hear a slight knocking immediately that would be indicative of rod bearings on their way out. |
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11-06-2014, 09:32 AM | #18 | |
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Quote:
2. Ask Blackstone, but I suspect you can still learn from the analysis even first test. Certainly less than subsequent tests but still could detect high levels compared to other M3. |
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11-06-2014, 10:07 AM | #19 |
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Those are only average baselines. Every engine is different. He's correct the best and really only way to know what's going on is to baseline and trend your own engine.
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11-06-2014, 10:37 AM | #20 |
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Copper is the 2nd layer, IIRC, below the aluminum/tin babbitt, so if you see copper, then you may be into them.
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11-06-2014, 10:42 AM | #21 |
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There is a ton of good information in the Rod Bearing threads down in the Tech/Engine section. It's worth a read.
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