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12-08-2016, 08:18 PM | #1 |
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Genuine BMW spark plugs (NGK) vs. standard NGK
I know the NGK equivalent plugs look identical and same spark plug spec p/n.....but am wondering are the Genuine BMW plugs "binned" versions of the standard NGK population plugs? ...i.e., tighter process tolerances
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12-08-2016, 09:31 PM | #2 | |
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0.00000000 difference noted.
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12-08-2016, 09:50 PM | #3 | ||
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I use Rock Auto (gasp!) for my plugs every 30k and check the gaps, always spot on. $9/each vs. $18/each for oem. No brainer.
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12-08-2016, 09:54 PM | #4 |
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Just DIY'd my spark plugs 1 week ago (replaced OEM BMW with NGK plugs); old plugs were quite fouled up, and my butt dyno definitely can feel a mild improvement in smoothness and overall power delivery after replacing them. No complaints here on the NGK plugs, will certainly be using them again next time at nearly half the cost of OEM.
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12-08-2016, 10:09 PM | #5 |
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The only difference is that there's a BMW logo on it instead of the MFG...aka, more $
This isn't RAM where binned ones can be overclocked better than unbinned ones and OC-ers are looking to squeeze out every single drop of speed possible |
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12-08-2016, 11:15 PM | #6 |
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Replaced BMW with NGK over a year ago.
Long story short, my rod bearing failed, throttle bodies froze, and idrive screen gave me an error that said BMW knew I was putting something in the car that didn't have a roundel on it.
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12-09-2016, 04:54 AM | #7 |
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I am confused by the above post, because I replaced with NGK non BMW plugs, they are identical in every way about 2 years ago and have not had any difference. They are identical plugs, minus the BMW price tag for the logo.
If he had a bearing failure and they went back and said the plugs were the reason then I'd really lawyer up on that one.
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12-09-2016, 05:54 AM | #8 | |
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12-09-2016, 07:33 AM | #9 | |
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12-09-2016, 07:45 AM | #10 |
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They are identical, except the price. Just replaced mine at 45k miles - first spark plug change. The old ones looked pretty much like new - almost no wear.
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12-09-2016, 08:49 AM | #12 |
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The OEM plug is made by NGK. There is no functional difference. Easiest way to save money on maintenance is to just buy the non-OEM version of your routine maintenance parts: filters, fluids, plugs, gaskets, etc.
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12-09-2016, 09:21 AM | #13 |
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Note that there could be production variance specification differences between OE and aftermarket. I don't know if this exists with sparkplugs, but there are other parts where there's natural variation in the production process, with tighter specifications held for parts going to the OE factory, and parts out of this tolerance but within industry standard can be sold as aftermarket.
With that said, I haven't seen any issues with the NGK branded sparkplugs, so these should be fine Just confirm gaping with a gauge tool. |
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12-09-2016, 09:45 AM | #14 | |
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12-09-2016, 11:14 AM | #16 |
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I replaced mine at 37K miles, originals came out nice and clean, almost as good as the new ones.
Gap is set at manufacturing, but I'd still look them over for a mistake or shipping damage on the gap. the back two (firewall end) are a nightmare to change btw. Coil puller tool is a big help. good luck.
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12-09-2016, 05:08 PM | #17 | |
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But, want to thank everyone for their responses....you've given me confidence to not go the stealership route on this one! =) Also, I think I found another data pt from RealOEM which confirms these are essentially the same (sans BMW logo). https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=12_1312 ..............note the specific callout to the NGK LKR8AP p/n. |
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12-10-2016, 05:12 AM | #18 |
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12-13-2016, 11:28 AM | #21 | |
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Each spark plug manufacturer publishes the "decoder" for their plug part numbers. You can tell just about everything from it: electrode type, material, length, gap, depth, heat range, etc. These decoders make it easy to determine your part number if you can't locate it; just find the decoder for your existing plug, then match up the specs to the other manufacturer's decoder. There are cross-reference charts for the heat ranges between manufacturers. I have done this on almost every car I own without any issues. It takes all of 5 minutes to figure things out. Here is an NGK one that I found with a Google image search. The same things exist for all of the other manufacturers. For LKR8AP, that roughly decodes as: L = thread reach 26.5mm K = 12.0mm thread, 1.25mm pitch, 19.0mm reach, 16.0mm hex R = resistor 8 = heat range A = design series P = platinum center electrode And guess what, NGK's website validates it: https://www.ngk.com/product.aspx?zpid=9880
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