EDC - no difference in settings: SOLVED?

[Helmsman]

Folks, started to nag about this already a year ago but as I haven’t been able to solve the issue and it since have come aboard new members I thought I give it a try to see if there are some new inputs to obtain. Here it goes:

Bought my M3 2011 end of 2013 at 11.5k miles. Last Summer at ~26k miles I realized the EDC lost its settings. Till then there was a significant difference between all three Comfort/Normal/Sport. Now there is only a hardly noticeable difference between Comfort and Sport. I’d say the stiffness is around Normal.

I have tried another EDC module. On both front + one rear I’ve measure the damper valve current changing according to spec (2A/1.6/0.8A, as well as adaptive in all modes). Find no codes (Carly), nor does the dealer who also reprogrammed the module(s).
As the module produce current/signals one have to assume the acc and angle sensors are ok. Car is quite carefully driven, no tracking etc, mint cond. Around 33k at this stage, can’t believe the dampers all of a sudden went at 26k?

Reading old threads there certainly are other guys feeling little or no difference, hence I assume my car is not the only one behaving like this. Question is, did anybody manage to find a solution.

Any fresh input would be highly appreciated - Thanks!

UPDATE Aug'17
Some details for the ones that has an interest.
Been confirming during couple of weeks driving and the damper settings are back to work for now. The only thing I've done is finally checking the last damper, on rear which is a bit fiddling around hence been lazy. The connector had some gunk (very strange as completely dry around) which may have introduced resistance. Damper coil is around 2.3ohm, targeted to drain 1-2A so resistance may be an issue while current enough to make the module believe system is good.
The EDC module has two output stages, one for each front and rear axle (i.e. BMW's claimed individual damper setting must be bs). Adding resistance / decreasing current on one damper may play some tricks with its pair but can't see what it should do with the front. I've also measured what I believe was adequate current on the others earlier. Soo...still bit of a mystery but worth to report back.

It's a year now since the EDC started to fail so hard to say whether they behave exactly the same, but for now I'm happy!

[yidgyi]

My solution would be just scrap EDC and stock suspension for some nice coilovers.

I've had a few issues with EDC similar to yours. I felt like the different modes didn't do anything. More recently, a fault code for the front sensors kept popping up. I would have to unplug the sensors and replug them and it would go away. I personally wasn't impressed with the EDC system so I just made the switch to coilovers and disabled EDC.

[Helmsman]

Originally Posted by yidgyi

My solution would be just scrap EDC and stock suspension for some nice coilovers.

I've had a few issues with EDC similar to yours. I felt like the different modes didn't do anything. More recently, a fault code for the front sensors kept popping up. I would have to unplug the sensors and replug them and it would go away. I personally wasn't impressed with the EDC system so I just made the switch to coilovers and disabled EDC.

Thanks for the input. Haven't checked the sensors as I was under the impression the module would lock up if they failed. Will have a check, did you have to loose the fender liner to make access?

Cheers
Nik

[yidgyi]

Originally Posted by Helmsman

Thanks for the input. Haven't checked the sensors as I was under the impression the module would lock up if they failed. Will have a check, did you have to loose the fender liner to make access?

Cheers
Nik

The sensor I unplugged and plugged back in was on the top of the strut tower (top hat) in the engine bay. Pop off the cap slowly and see if the sensor is still connected. If it isn't, reconnect it and pop the cap back on and go for a drive.

For the rears, you need to remove the trunk lining to get access to the rear sensors.

Although, if these sensors aren't working or are not plugged in the iDrive would most likely display a EDC malfunction warning which it did on mine. If you don't have an EDC malfunction showing up then I think your sensors are connected fine. If all else fails, I personally still recommend getting a pair of coilovers. Some include the option to retain EDC function but my fear is if your EDC currently doesn't work, will it work on aftermarket coilovers? Also the EDC coilovers are a bit pricey so why end up spending more money if it won't even work.

Hope you get your issue resolved! Sorry I couldn't be of much help.

[Helmsman]

Originally Posted by yidgyi

The sensor I unplugged and plugged back in was on the top of the strut tower (top hat) in the engine bay. Pop off the cap slowly and see if the sensor is still connected. If it isn't, reconnect it and pop the cap back on and go for a drive.

For the rears, you need to remove the trunk lining to get access to the rear sensors.

Although, if these sensors aren't working or are not plugged in the iDrive would most likely display a EDC malfunction warning which it did on mine. If you don't have an EDC malfunction showing up then I think your sensors are connected fine. If all else fails, I personally still recommend getting a pair of coilovers. Some include the option to retain EDC function but my fear is if your EDC currently doesn't work, will it work on aftermarket coilovers? Also the EDC coilovers are a bit pricey so why end up spending more money if it won't even work.

Hope you get your issue resolved! Sorry I couldn't be of much help.

Got it. Those are the damper valve connectors, while I thought you meant the acc sensors. Yep, disconnecting them will generate an iDrive warning soon after start driving.

Cheers

[tdott]

Something must be wrong. New these systems road great for the times. I definately felt the difference when i was stock but ive been on coilovers for a while now, i do sometimes dream of going back to that stock feel.

[bvrider1]

subscribing

[Nairb1]

Same problem here. 2013, 35k.
I thought it was just me at first.
No codes.

[Helmsman]

Originally Posted by Nairb1

Same problem here. 2013, 35k.
I thought it was just me at first.
No codes.

Did the settings work initially mate, or was like that when you bought the car?

[Nairb1]

Bought the car last fall. At the time I felt little or no change
with the EDC settings
The car was still under warranty so I had the dealer check
it out while they were doing some other work.
No codes and they said it operated normally.
Still skeptical.

[Helmsman]

Originally Posted by Nairb1

Bought the car last fall. At the time I felt little or no change
with the EDC settings
The car was still under warranty so I had the dealer check
it out while they were doing some other work.
No codes and they said it operated normally.
Still skeptical.

Yep unfortunately the typical dealer reaction, no codes = no issues. Same here.

Again, the difference between settings in mine was significant. Comfort was close to mushy, Normal stiff/good, while Sport was harsh. Even without bumps one could immediately feel the difference in both steering and body role when turning wheel back and forth.

[///M Power-Belgium]

Originally Posted by Helmsman

Yep unfortunately the typical dealer reaction, no codes = no issues. Same here.

Again, the difference between settings in mine was significant. Comfort was close to mushy, Normal stiff/good, while Sport was harsh. Even without bumps one could immediately feel the difference in both steering and body role when turning wheel back and forth.

I'm pretty sure something is wrong with your EDC .
Normally you should really feel the difference in EDC settings !

With my EDC ON , the difference between comfort and sport is huge !
With the 2 led's activated on the button it's even more significant...

[Helmsman]

Originally Posted by ///M Power-Belgium

I'm pretty sure something is wrong with your EDC .
Normally you should really feel the difference in EDC settings !

With my EDC ON , the difference between comfort and sport is huge !
With the 2 led's activated on the button it's even more significant...

Makes two of us Phil.... Question is how the heck track it down...

[///M Power-Belgium]

Originally Posted by Helmsman

Makes two of us Phil.... Question is how the heck track it down...

Yeah I saw you was already with your BMW/Dealer in Sweden without finding codes or a fix.
Personal I would try with another BMW/Dealer in your situation .
Good luck Nick , and keep us/me posted about your situation ...

[Helmsman]

Just to add to the confusion the EDC also seem to change with daily mode or god knows what. The small but still noticeable difference between N/S some days goes away completely and there is absolutely no difference.
At this point people probably believe I'm mad, which is where this mystery eventually will drive me...

[Helmsman]

Bump - really, I'm the only one with this issue going? Even worse than I thought then....

[FMLYSDN]

Originally Posted by Helmsman

Bump - really, I'm the only one with this issue going? Even worse than I thought then....

To be honest. I never really felt much difference while my car was stock. I didn't think much of it at the time. I installed a KW HAS and felt the difference then. I am not clear as to why but it was significant then.

Sorry I couldn't be of more help. I am also thinking of moving to coilovers as I track the car more.

[L4ces]

It just happened to me yesterday after having ac work.
1. 2016 replaced old shocks and struts with the bilstein heavy duty edc compatible set.
2. All was well till yesterday. Car reported EDC disabled with reduced comfort. The car is stuck in firmest mode. FYI the firm mode is rock hard and stiff! I really like these dampers because you can feel the difference between all 3 settings.
3. Took it to the Indy that did the work. I suspected the connector on the passenger side may have come a little loose since they had to work on that side of the car. To repair a burner wire and connector.
4. Indy shop says my right rear damper is faulty and they are replacing it with a new one under warranty. They ordered a new damper to be installed in the near future.

So Helsman, could it simply be a bad damper? I'll follow up if that fixes it but so far they were able to find a bad damper. I know it is no easy task to swap dampers to see if it goes away. It it makes me wonder if that could be your problem. Monday I will ask if they've seen this symptom with any other cars regardless of make.

[Helmsman]

Cheers L4ces. Sorry for the late reply but wanted to verify some things first. These dampers seem to have a solid reputation for keeping together, for a long time. But yes, it may still be an issue. leaking or whatever, that the system doesn't detect (as no codes).

Anyhow, updates in the original post.

[yidgyi]

Good to know its somewhat working again!

[L4ces]

Heads up! I just learned the following lesson which I which I may be prone to repeating in the future.

I chose Bilstein replacements shocks and struts with EDC to refreshen my suspension and had the work done at one the independent shops here in my state. As you know from my earlier post, the shock is broken (the definition of broken varies,,, it is not functioning properly and EDC is stuck on firm). Luckily, it is under warranty by the independent shop. The problem is Bilstein has no replacements in the US.

I would be shit out of luck if the damaged shock was so bad that the car could not be driven. Two weeks and counting with no info on when the replacements will be available. I even called Bilstein US.

Options if I had this knowledge before hand.
1. Even with tracking, my OEM edcs were good enough for me (3-5 track days a year and I wouldn't complain. I wouldn't have this problem with OEM EDC replacement right)? In the future, I'll likely pay the extra dollars for OEM replacements (hidden in that price is 'availability'.

2. Ask the shop if a part is not available, what happens to you as the customer. The answer might influence you to decide on asking the shop to use OEM.

Just my thoughts and may post 'food for thought in a separate post'.

So until this is fix, I cannot tell you if this is the problem with my EDC.


edit:
This applies to any aftermarket part and even to OEM parts. I recall incidences of manufacturer's part (for example a replacement engine) being unavailable for some time but for shocks (think brakes) I would not even think this would be the case.

This type of inconvenience comes with the ownership of such cars.

[L4ces]

I was told that EDC malfunction (stuck in one mode) could be caused from flashing/resetting the ECU (running a current cycle) due to other unrelated work, as well as a line pinch when the car is raised and the suspension dropped ( my accuracy of what he said is not 100% but you get the idea). If you have had other work done and suddenly the EDC is no longer working (ECU not communicating with the dampers), the two issue may not be mutually exclusive and coincidental (in other words, the ECU interaction caused the problem). The fix sounds like it involves clearing this up (lingo escapes me).

I hope some knowledgeable people can share if they've encountered this anomally or if this sounds reasonable. This info was provided from a trusted source in the shock producing business and may not be something a shop tech would claim responsibility for.

Any feedback anyone?

Also there is a possibility of the shocks producing incorrect resistance levels when measured.