Is my master cylinder bad?

[SilentAttack]

So a couple weeks ago I changed the brakes and rotors on my x-5 (yes I know this is the M3 section but my question will be answered for any platform). So while changing them I decided to also paint the calipers. long story short everything went fine until it was time to test all the new stuff. I used centric rotors and Akebono pads. first startup and the brake petal nearly hit the floor. woops I guess I got air in the system so I went back to bleeding and bleeding and finally took it to a local shop to hook it up to the BMW tool that activates the Pistons in the calapers. the brakes felt 25% better but still go down further than they originally did and I was told it was my master cylinder. I have a hard time believing that with just 63k miles it's bad but of course I look to you guys for advice and suggestions.

Do Akebono pads have a 15% lower engagement point or could my master cylinder really be bad? any help is appreciated.

[GP0256]

Originally Posted by SilentAttack

So a couple weeks ago I changed the brakes and rotors on my x-5 (yes I know this is the M3 section but my question will be answered for any platform). So while changing them I decided to also paint the calipers. long story short everything went fine until it was time to test all the new stuff. I used centric rotors and Akebono pads. first startup and the brake petal nearly hit the floor. woops I guess I got air in the system so I went back to bleeding and bleeding and finally took it to a local shop to hook it up to the BMW tool that activates the Pistons in the calapers. the brakes felt 25% better but still go down further than they originally did and I was told it was my master cylinder. I have a hard time believing that with just 63k miles it's bad but of course I look to you guys for advice and suggestions.

Do Akebono pads have a 15% lower engagement point or could my master cylinder really be bad? any help is appreciated.

I have a Schwann scan tool and every time I do brake fluid or pads that are completely shot, I run the program to pulse the ABS several times before I get the brake pedal to the factory pedal feel. I would guess if it was fine before you bled the brakes/did the brake job, there is just a lot of air in the abs. I would bleed them very slowly again and also run the ABS program on a good scan tool a few times and I bet you are good. FYI, ECS timing just had a sale on them for $160, best money you can spend if you are working on a BMW, period. Saved me several times. Good luck!