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      11-17-2017, 06:25 PM   #1
bobby1982
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Want to get into an m3

Hello all! I’m a newcomer to the forum and reading up up as much as I can so thanks for all the great info!!!
So, I’m looking at getting into a 2008 m3 convertible. That’s the wife’s only demand if I get my car, it has to be a convertible! Lol, I can live with that. So, my questions are, what do I have to look into before pulling the trigger on one? For sure I’d do a PPI before but what are the common issues that I need to look out for?
I really appreciate the feed back and thanks in advance!
Bobby
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      11-17-2017, 06:27 PM   #2
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I'm sure you've heard about the rod bearings. Other than that, these are pretty solid cars.
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      11-17-2017, 06:40 PM   #3
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http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1440010

Try searching a little too but check out this thread that was posted recently
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      11-17-2017, 08:43 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shimmy23 View Post
http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1440010

Try searching a little too but check out this thread that was posted recently
And this one, but it may be in the link that shimmy23 sent you.
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      11-17-2017, 08:52 PM   #5
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Thanks for the links! I read up on them even though I already knew about the “possible” bearing issue. Is there any way precautions to take? Or is it just the bad luck of the draw when picking the car?
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      11-17-2017, 08:54 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobby1982 View Post
Hello all! I’m a newcomer to the forum and reading up up as much as I can so thanks for all the great info!!!
So, I’m looking at getting into a 2008 m3 convertible. That’s the wife’s only demand if I get my car, it has to be a convertible! Lol, I can live with that. So, my questions are, what do I have to look into before pulling the trigger on one? For sure I’d do a PPI before but what are the common issues that I need to look out for?
I really appreciate the feed back and thanks in advance!
Bobby
Why a 2008? Those had the early flywheel, I drive, and bearing design that got changed out for all subsequent years.
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      11-17-2017, 09:09 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Duk996 View Post
Why a 2008? Those had the early flywheel, I drive, and bearing design that got changed out for all subsequent years.
Like I said I’m a newbie! Lol! Help me out here, what are the pros and cons when buying 2008 versus 2009?
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      11-17-2017, 09:14 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobby1982 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Duk996 View Post
Why a 2008? Those had the early flywheel, I drive, and bearing design that got changed out for all subsequent years.
Like I said I’m a newbie! Lol! Help me out here, what are the pros and cons when buying 2008 versus 2009?
Sorry, I didn't mean for it to come across as a criticism; sounded like you wanted a 2008 specifically.

Besides the bearings there aren't material differences. I think if you ever need to do the clutch you would have to get the newer flywheel design (assuming manual, not sure about dct). I would get a 2011 and up, it's got the updated led lights and is basically the same as the others save the 2008 which is the odd ball.

To be super transparent, I wouldn't have bought mine in the first place if I could go back. I am sorting through a blown motor right now. I'm in the minority though. Most just suffer rod bearing headaches.
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      11-17-2017, 09:22 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Duk996 View Post
Sorry, I didn't mean for it to come across as a criticism; sounded like you wanted a 2008 specifically.

Besides the bearings there aren't material differences. I think if you ever need to do the clutch you would have to get the newer flywheel design. I would get a 2011 and up, it's got the updated led lights and is basically the same as the others save the 2008 which is the odd ball.
No bad feelings bud at all! I didn’t take it as criticism at all! This is the reason that I’m checking out the forums before pulling the trigger. I want to know what to look for so I don’t get blind sided. It would be my first BMW so I want to take in the most information possible!
The reason I’m looking for a 2008 is because, here in Canada, Quebec to be more specific, if I buy a 10 year old car or older, the car is no longer registered for value. So, i don’t have to pay the extra 10% taxes on the vehicle! Sorry, that’s my cheap side talking!
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      11-17-2017, 10:46 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roastbeef View Post
I'm sure you've heard about the rod bearings. Other than that, these are pretty solid cars.
Rod is a friend of mine, and he's gotten a bad rep recently. He's really a high quality person
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      11-17-2017, 10:47 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Duk996 View Post
Why a 2008? Those had the early flywheel, I drive, and bearing design that got changed out for all subsequent years.
Flywheel? Bearing design? That's news to me.
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      11-17-2017, 11:04 PM   #12
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2012 BMW E92 M3  [9.00]
Get an E92 and tell her the removable top is broken and ridiculously expensive to have repaired. Just make up a number north of $15k. Then enjoy. GL
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      11-17-2017, 11:23 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flying Ace View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by roastbeef View Post
I'm sure you've heard about the rod bearings. Other than that, these are pretty solid cars.
Rod is a friend of mine, and he's gotten a bad rep recently. He's really a high quality person
If your friend Rod wasn't such a failure, more people would respect and stick up for him. If he wasn't such a rude basterd maybe people would keep him around longer.
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      11-18-2017, 07:32 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flying Ace View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Duk996 View Post
Why a 2008? Those had the early flywheel, I drive, and bearing design that got changed out for all subsequent years.
Flywheel? Bearing design? That's news to me.
Yeah, not to be a jerk but info on the flywheel is readily available online, the bearings not so much. I literally called bmw parts yesterday and a very nice employee gave me the different part numbers and when they superseded the old. They changed in 2008 and 2011. Not sure WHAT changed in 2008 but in 11 they went from lead/copper to tin/aluminum. The lead/copper is best from what I have gathered because it's easier on the crank (4 times softer than tin/aluminum) and can be traced in a Blackstone oil analysis.

Hope this helps.
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      11-22-2017, 08:08 AM   #15
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So if I’m understanding most of you guys correctly, you advise me to stay away from a 2008-2010 model because of the rod bearing issues? Have that many people have this issue come up?
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      11-22-2017, 08:20 AM   #16
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All models have the same potential bearing issue... The later models just won't show on oil reports.

But...I would get a later model for the CIC interface. Ideally that way, you can also bluetooth audio to the system as well as apps like Spotify.

There are plenty of people still on original bearings... I'd say most M3s in fact. Whether you want that risk or not, is your preference. I'm still not convinced it's absolutely necessary for ALL cars.

Good luck with your search!
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      11-22-2017, 08:33 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobby1982 View Post
So if I’m understanding most of you guys correctly, you advise me to stay away from a 2008-2010 model because of the rod bearing issues? Have that many people have this issue come up?
Welcome to the forum OP

Regardless of which year you buy, all have the same likelihood of rod bearing failure. Currently it's like a 1-2% failure rate so it's very unlikely, but myself and some others believe this is smart preventative maintenance when you buy an M3.
Zero correlation has been found for the failures, they just happen. You cannot avoid one without changing the bearings, so it isn't something you should live in fear of. You either change the bearings and pay the ~2500 shops charge for the whole thing or you don't, but if you don't then don't live in fear without revving the engine because of them because it makes no difference.

The E93M is awesome and I want to get one to add to the family of the E90M and E92M.
The day I buy an E93 I will be doing rod bearings on it immediately after purchasing it.

The only way I'd buy a 2008 is if it came without a nav. The nav in that year is truly ancient.
I'm not too concerned about the flywheel or clutch pedal changes. The clutch pedal can be swapped for an Ultimate Clutch Pedal.

Generally speaking these are very reliable cars. You don't have vanos or subframe issues which plague other cars. A PPI in this car would basically be to make sure it hasn't had an accident.
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      11-22-2017, 08:43 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SYT_Shadow View Post
Welcome to the forum OP

Regardless of which year you buy, all have the same likelihood of rod bearing failure. Currently it's like a 1-2% failure rate so it's very unlikely, but myself and some others believe this is smart preventative maintenance when you buy an M3.
Zero correlation has been found for the failures, they just happen. You cannot avoid one without changing the bearings, so it isn't something you should live in fear of. You either change the bearings and pay the ~2500 shops charge for the whole thing or you don't, but if you don't then don't live in fear without revving the engine because of them because it makes no difference.

The E93M is awesome and I want to get one to add to the family of the E90M and E92M.
The day I buy an E93 I will be doing rod bearings on it immediately after purchasing it.

The only way I'd buy a 2008 is if it came without a nav. The nav in that year is truly ancient.
I'm not too concerned about the flywheel or clutch pedal changes. The clutch pedal can be swapped for an Ultimate Clutch Pedal.

Generally speaking these are very reliable cars. You don't have vanos or subframe issues which plague other cars. A PPI in this car would basically be to make sure it hasn't had an accident.
+1 and there are no major differences between an 08 and a 2013 model I owned an 08 and now a 12.
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      12-07-2017, 09:36 AM   #19
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another bit of e93 specific advice: check the operation of the hard top carefully. They've been impressively reliable from what I can tell but are very expensive to fix if they havent been cared for.
The tension cables on the '08 models were updated later (not sure if it was by the next year, but definitely by '11) because they were prone to fraying and snapping. New ones have been reportedly solid. Just one more reason to target the 2011+ models

Good luck! You'll love this car. Your wife is a smart woman, the e93 M3 is a really unique package, there's nothing quite like it.
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      12-07-2017, 09:47 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Silverstoneorspacegray View Post
To add my 2c, I’m a recent owner (only about a month in) and I have an 09 coupe which I LOVE, LOVE, LOVE - but if I had really really researched I would have gotten a 2011+ for Bluetooth streaming. I have a firefly Bluetooth thing through the aux port but it’s a hassle and the sound is meh.

But at the same time I would have had to settle for more miles. My 09 with 48k was $28k so I’d probably have to settle for like 80k+ or pony up an extra 5-6k (some might dispute this but ballparking).

But whatever you choose to do, get an M3, it’s even better than I thought it would be. I hate that I really only get to drive it on the weekends. For the money, I really can’t think of a better car.
I got the Bimmertech combox upgrade on my 09. Adds bluetooth music streaming, or wired via USB which shows album artwork etc. on the Nav screen. Also allows control from the steering wheel. Basically brings it inline with an 11+. The sound on my EPS is significantly improved via USB, far richer and more impactful compared to Aux. I got a local garage they recommended to install it for me (Brooklyn Motors Inc. in Brooklyn), but it's fairly easy you could do it yourself if you had the tools. It was about $800 all in, which is well worth it to me.

Last edited by Montaver; 12-07-2017 at 09:53 AM..
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      12-07-2017, 01:48 PM   #21
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I've thought about that. Hmm now I'm more curious.

I have the s752 audio so I hate that the music through the aux sounds so bleh

Any downside to it?
No downsides AFAIK. You lose BMW assist but I would never use that anyway.
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      12-07-2017, 04:41 PM   #22
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I'm surprised no one talked about the throttle actuator issues. That's probably the second biggest issue with these motors if you do a bit more research on it. Although it isn't as serious as the rod bearings, it is still a costly fix because there are two of them. I believe it'll easily cost about 3K. So definitely be aware of those.
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