Found my car! Should I PPI?

[thatg]

Hey guys whts your experience with PPI on these cars. Are there things detectable beyond driving it and listening for any noises or a rough idle? I drove the car today and did’t notice anything to the untrained eye. Car seems to be very well looked after. Owner has service records. I’m wondering if you guys think a $300 bmw ppi is going to tell me the things I’d want to know about one of these with 70k miles and what starts to go that needs to be replaced. Thanks in advance for any advice.

[Foggins]

I do think a PPI is a good idea (make sure no frame damage,etc...) but I would go to a good Indy mechanic and save a few bucks. Good luck.

[PetrolFumes]

Originally Posted by thatg

Hey guys whts your experience with PPI on these cars. Are there things detectable beyond driving it and listening for any noises or a rough idle? I drove the car today and did’t notice anything to the untrained eye. Car seems to be very well looked after. Owner has service records. I’m wondering if you guys think a $300 bmw ppi is going to tell me the things I’d want to know about one of these with 70k miles and what starts to go that needs to be replaced. Thanks in advance for any advice.

Definitely have one done. aside from the known issues on these cars (rod bearings & throttle actuators) it's good to get a reputable BMW dealer to do the PPI

[codinge90]

300 for a ppi is very expensive. BMW dealer that I took a car to couple years back charged $200. I would find a local Indy shop, they do just as good of a job or even better depending on which one you go with. From my experience, local Indy's usually run $75-$150 for a ppi

[Gripster]

Yes. It’s cheap insurance and there are things that you can only spot when the car is on a lift with an experienced tech going over it. Dealer PPIs are ok if you don’t have other options but a good local Indy will charge less and do a better job.

I know it’s exciting to have found the right car, but don’t rush this step. PPIs have saved me from buying problems in the past and usually turn up something worth negotiating on a private sale.

[IrishMike]

Originally Posted by thatg

Hey guys whts your experience with PPI on these cars. Are there things detectable beyond driving it and listening for any noises or a rough idle? I drove the car today and did’t notice anything to the untrained eye. Car seems to be very well looked after. Owner has service records. I’m wondering if you guys think a $300 bmw ppi is going to tell me the things I’d want to know about one of these with 70k miles and what starts to go that needs to be replaced. Thanks in advance for any advice.

Definitely, it's a cheap investment and can potentially save you money in the long run. Perhaps something may come up where you can negotiate further on the price as well.

-Mike

[Maseroche]

I didn't PPI and had to pay for a new Evaporator which would have been reported otherwise.

[roastbeef]

yes, do it.

[EnVe46]

A PPI will do a ton for you that even one of the most experienced eyes, can't tell. Like rotor thickness, minor oil leaks like rear of valve covers, evap leaks, suspension bushings, motor/trans mounts, accidents, shady tech work, etc... So the answer is quite clear!

[gallian93]

i have had PPI vary from dealer to dealer on what they do...
I had an expensive on (around $300) but the went over the car as if they were doing a CPO assessment...extremely detailed.... other have been a DME read and visual poking around looking for leaks.. those have cost me around $125-150...
I have got a lot of used cars older BMWs over the years...i like old things ...I would NEVER get a car without a PPI ..the only exception was my 72 tii...

[Honda]

If you know what to check for, you dont need a PPI. I have bought 2 M3's before and didn't do PPI because I know what to look for. I also bring my jack when checking the car to go under neath

[thatg]

Originally Posted by Honda

If you know what to check for, you dont need a PPI. I have bought 2 M3's before and didn't do PPI because I know what to look for. I also bring my jack when checking the car to go under neath

Im curious what signs you look for. I know the two biggest concerns are the rod bearing and the throttle actuator, im not sure theres anyway to check for these either in a ppi or on your own.

I’m considering getting an extended warranty that would cover the car for both or pre-emptively doing the rod bearing depending on the cost of both.

The only thing i noticed with the car were some squeeks in the seats which some wd-40 should be able to handle if i can find the source of the squeek

[ItsGary]

Originally Posted by thatg

Im curious what signs you look for. I know the two biggest concerns are the rod bearing and the throttle actuator, im not sure theres anyway to check for these either in a ppi or on your own.

I’m considering getting an extended warranty that would cover the car for both or pre-emptively doing the rod bearing depending on the cost of both.

The only thing i noticed with the car were some squeeks in the seats which some wd-40 should be able to handle if i can find the source of the squeek

If you're gonna get the warranty make sure to get full warranty that covers everything. I got offered the aftermarket warranty all the "higher" end dealerships offer here in Vancouver, but opted out of it. Personal choice, I am paying for the rod bearings job atm.

[spazzyfry123]

Originally Posted by thatg

Im curious what signs you look for. I know the two biggest concerns are the rod bearing and the throttle actuator, im not sure theres anyway to check for these either in a ppi or on your own.

I’m considering getting an extended warranty that would cover the car for both or pre-emptively doing the rod bearing depending on the cost of both.

The only thing i noticed with the car were some squeeks in the seats which some wd-40 should be able to handle if i can find the source of the squeek

Anticipate in the $2500 region for the rod bearings job.

The throttle body actuators aren't cheap. The labor is easy but time consuming. Around that $1k mark for the throttle body actuators.

[New2Roundel]

I would be realistic in your expectations of a PPI. Whoever you go to isn't going to tear the car apart to determine if things like rod bearings or throttle actuators are on their way out. A PPI looks for obvious problems--things like leaks, rips/tears, and wear. If you want something like a compression test for overall engine health, I'm sure they can do that as well. But just be warned that a clean PPI is no guarantee that the engine won't grenade a week after you buy the car.

If you're concerned/nervous/anxious about the car and a PPI will give you greater piece of mind, then I think you should do it though.

[monterey]

I would only use one if they allowed me to watch what they checked. I sold a car and the buyer insisted that she wanted a PPI. I brought the car in to her mechanic and they gave her a bunch of B.S. The report stated my transmission oil was dirty BUT typical for a car of this age. (Bunch of crap, I changed the fluid a week before) That means they didn't even check but wrote a bunch of stuff as though they were so thorough...

My advice to you is check the car when it is ICE cold in the morning. Rough idle issue tend to come out when it's cold. Next, check for leaks. Check the fluids, bring someone who has a carly or a obd2 reader. Listen for strange noises, but this car already makes strange noises normally lol. Look for uneven tire wear, steering wheel shake at high speeds. But as I always say, buy the seller not the car.

[TomHudson]

I did a ppi, more to check specific things.
Did a leak down test, compression test.
Safety items
Parts and pieces as advertised (aftermarket suspension etc..)
Test drive for obvious noises.
Service history

Obviously by a mechanic who is very familiar with these cars.

[thatg]

Does anyone have a good history with any aftermarket warrantees? I had a warranty from a company called easycare for my e60 m5. Was $3500 but the motor had bent valves from an “overrev” on the smg according the bmw who wouldnt repair the car, but took it to an indy afterwards and they worked with easycare to replace the motor.

Unfortunately easycare is now claiming they dont provide warranties for “M”s outside of factory warranty. The car is an 09 with 70k miles.

Alternatively does anybody know of any really good bmw performance shops in socal that will do the rod bearing replacement? Thanks.

[330ciprem]

Originally Posted by thatg

Does anyone have a good history with any aftermarket warrantees? I had a warranty from a company called easycare for my e60 m5. Was $3500 but the motor had bent valves from an “overrev” on the smg according the bmw who wouldnt repair the car, but took it to an indy afterwards and they worked with easycare to replace the motor.

Unfortunately easycare is now claiming they dont provide warranties for “M”s outside of factory warranty. The car is an 09 with 70k miles.

Alternatively does anybody know of any really good bmw performance shops in socal that will do the rod bearing replacement? Thanks.

I am looking at third party warranties as well but haven't anything good about any of them.

Just googling the names leads to a bunch of sites with negative reviews.

For that much money - apprix 3.5k I can get the Rod Bearings AND throttle actuators changed, the major issues.

Further, there is always a chance that they wouldn't honour the claim based on some BS terms and condition.

[EnVe46]

I use the Warranty Group through my credit union loan and they've been great so far. Pricey but ya already paid for self in 6 mths. $500 deductible 3yr/36k was $4700. Just had $5300 in repairs which they paid minus deductible, evap replaced, power steering pump replaced and both valve covers replaced. They also covered the dct pan leaks. I decided to roll it into my payments since I have 2% interest, it was easy decision.