Will long warm up period kill my battery?

[JMH1099]

I recently sent my car to a local shop to do full inspection. They notice my battery is about to change. I quickly think about will long idle time kill my battery? Every morning I start up the car before breakfast, the car will idle 10~15 minutes before I drive it, I did turn the lights and radio off, but will this still be one of the fact to cost my battery goes bad?

[shimmy23]

How far is your commute? I would think it would be fine unless your battery is already 10years old

[wfdeacon88]

Originally Posted by JMH1099

I recently sent my car to a local shop to do full inspection. They notice my battery is about to change. I quickly think about will long idle time kill my battery? Every morning I start up the car before breakfast, the car will idle 10~15 minutes before I drive it, I did turn the lights and radio off, but will this still be one of the fact to cost my battery goes bad?

You should not idle your car after a cold start, it's not good for the engine. You should drive your car after starting it, which is what the manual clearly says and many threads on here.

[JMH1099]

Originally Posted by shimmy23

How far is your commute? I would think it would be fine unless your battery is already 10years old

I did 15 miles one way everyday, my battery was replaced on 2015.

[JMH1099]

Originally Posted by wfdeacon88

You should not idle your car after a cold start, it's not good for the engine. You should drive your car after starting it, which is what the manual clearly says and many threads on here.

I thought our car have to fully warm up before drive it

[wfdeacon88]

Originally Posted by JMH1099

I thought our car have to fully warm up before drive it

No no no no... Drive slowly and under 3K RPM as it warms. it's not good at all to let it warm up idling...

[Helmsman]

The battery is being charged also at idling so that's not the issue here mate.

[Ajolives]

Originally Posted by wfdeacon88

No no no no... Drive slowly and under 3K RPM as it warms. it's not good at all to let it warm up idling...

I wait until the secondary air pump turns off to drive at the very least or until the oil temp gauge starts to move, usually 2-5 minutes. My logic is that the oil is at the proper temperature for RB lubrication. Even still I keep it under 3k until I'm at full operating temp.

I agree with the manual and common knowledge that a car doesn't need to idle but for my sanity I'd rather wait and make sure oil is to temp, or maybe cut down to 1-2 minutes.

I'm doing an oil change this weekend, I'll ask Blackstone if they see anything in the oil that can be idle-induced

[nrubenstein]

Also, think about how many extra hours of run time you are adding to that motor.

[akkando]

I just wait for cold start to finish then drive off. Want to make sure oil pressure is correct, which I'm sure happens quickly.

[GRM Scott]

Once your car's engine has started, the alternator is actively charging the battery, idling or driving don't matter from a battery standpoint.

As for the warm-up thing, here's a decent article with a quality source. We're fortunate that our cars have oil temp gauges as default:
https://jalopnik.com/nascar-engine-e...our-1832245942

[pbonsalb]

I will wait as long as a minute. The motor runs smoother. Less jerkiness. Often I don’t really have time and just go. I always drive gently and under 3000 rpm until the motor has warmed up.

No worries on the battery from idling. Battery is probably tired. If so it may not start the car on a very cold day.

[Ajolives]

Originally Posted by GRM Scott

Once your car's engine has started, the alternator is actively charging the battery, idling or driving don't matter from a battery standpoint.

As for the warm-up thing, here's a decent article with a quality source. We're fortunate that our cars have oil temp gauges as default:
https://jalopnik.com/nascar-engine-e...our-1832245942

That was a good read, they covered all the angles.

[GRM Scott]

Originally Posted by Ajolives

That was a good read, they covered all the angles.

Yeah, there's an overabundance of info on the topic, that one seems to cover the bases for actual humans driving their street cars, even ones with race-oriented engines. Short of going full F1 and circulating preheated coolant through the engine's cooling system so the block is up to full temperature even prior to startup...

[wyatth]

As others have said, the idling is not killing your battery, but is not good for the engine either. If your commute is long enough get the fluids up to temp, just drive it moderately until it's warm.

[wfdeacon88]

Originally Posted by GRM Scott

Once your car's engine has started, the alternator is actively charging the battery, idling or driving don't matter from a battery standpoint.

As for the warm-up thing, here's a decent article with a quality source. We're fortunate that our cars have oil temp gauges as default:
https://jalopnik.com/nascar-engine-e...our-1832245942

Thanks for posting this. I think it would be safe to say letting the S65 idle for 1-3 minutes when really cold outside, then driving slowly until operating temp, would be the safest option. Some of the information in that article likely isn't aligned with this engine, such as the part on operating temp.... like much tighter clearances on this car + 10-60 oil + 8400 redline = we probably need to be more careful than most other cars about getting to operating temp. but still a nice article.

[Mr. BMW]

Originally Posted by Helmsman

The battery is being charged also at idling so that's not the issue here mate.

I thought on these cars the alternator is only engaged when you decelerate and not while idling?

[Helmsman]

Originally Posted by Mr. BMW

I thought on these cars the alternator is only engaged when you decelerate and not while idling?

Believe the marketing suggest that battery is charged only when braking and only charge "when needed". Maybe the idea but even with brand new battery the voltage certainly was steamin well over 14v. I figure tricky to fole Mr Ohm and not deliver any current in that instance but maybe the IBS does some clever trick to increase resistance?

Ps. Btw using Carly one can also see a proper and typical alternator current of 30-40A at all times, must go somewhere.

[Scrippy]

Always let it idle for 2-3 then drive moderately until up to temp. I could give two shits what the manual says about driving immediately. Especially when terms like "lifetime fluid" are present in it as well.

[wfdeacon88]

Originally Posted by Scrippy

Always let it idle for 2-3 then drive moderately until up to temp. I could give two shits what the manual says about driving immediately.

I think this is probably the best way to do it... just a couple minutes to let the engine materials get up in temp, and then easy driving until oil gets to operating temp.

[Scrippy]

Originally Posted by wfdeacon88

I think this is probably the best way to do it... just a couple minutes to let the engine materials get up in temp, and then easy driving until oil gets to operating temp.

Exactly! I understand the thinking that moving generates more heat but wouldn't this generate more friction than idle? I might be ok with a temperature controlled garaged car just driving away but not really lol.

[Rajmun340]

Originally Posted by JMH1099

I recently sent my car to a local shop to do full inspection. They notice my battery is about to change. I quickly think about will long idle time kill my battery? Every morning I start up the car before breakfast, the car will idle 10~15 minutes before I drive it, I did turn the lights and radio off, but will this still be one of the fact to cost my battery goes bad?

That's a rookie mistake, you are doing the opposite of what you should be doing. Only wait 1 min max before you drive away then drive normally without going into high revs until warm (up to 4k is fine, you don't want to lug your engine by trying to keep rpm too low when the road is going up). Idling the cold engine for extended time is a very bad idea. The combustion in a cold engine causes a lot of the fuel ethanol to blow by and end up mixing in the engine oil. Do that regularly and your oil looses some of it viscosity which is bad for your engine.