What's my risk on crank hub?

[JipperII]

2019 m4 competition w/
AA equal length mid pipe
Remus exhaust
AA stage 1 tune
32kmiles

Going to
AA catted downpipe
AA stage 2

Limited highway driving....typically 15 miles under 60 mph a day not racing but drive fast...manual trans so don't put a ton of stress on tran


Thoughts? Probably going to trade in early 2024...but want to enjoy for 2023....can I hold off on crankhub fix

[Chi_weezy]

Do the capture at least, for some peace of mind. and cross your fingers

[JipperII]

Originally Posted by Chi_weezy

Do the capture at least, for some peace of mind. and cross your fingers

Is it really that bad? I talked to my shop and they said it's a thing but not something to worry about until I'm in the higher end hp

[Chi_weezy]

I’ve read about every thread about it. The car I’m getting has the crank hub done. Was like $3800. But seems a lot of people are just doing the capture especially when not pushing big power say over 600whp/tq. Seems it’s a coin flip whether it’ll get spun or not so who knows

[rumzh]

Did a ton of "research" about it. You won't find a straight answer.

When I went with an OTS Stage 2 tune, I did the capture only. Drove it for a few months and was afraid to aggressively down shift or really push it. Then wanted to go with a custom flexfuel tune so I can run e85 and decided to do the whole crankhub before doing that. The 3k was worth the peace of mind IMO.

[TractionControlDelete]

For what it’s worth, Stage 1 versus Stage 2 with HFC’s is a 6-12 hp difference. It’s hard to suggest anything more than the CBC at this point as you’re not really going through a noteworthy change in power.

Assuming you have a power-to-weight ratio of about 7lbs/HP with your Stage 1 tune, you’d be able to have the identical power increase of a Stage 2 tune by doing 1) a rear seat delete, or 2) having a half empty tank of fuel, or 3) losing 40-50lbs by whatever other means you choose. It’s really that negligible.

[TopJimmy]

CBC only

[Dabeamerking]

Always a risk. That bolt stars untightening you risk spinning the hub sprocket and blown motor

[Fabb]

No kickdown with dct, you should be ok

[JipperII]

Thanks guys! Really great insights...sounds like the cost benefit might not be there on the performance...maybe I'll just lose 40 pounds and call it a day!

Cbc sounds good, is there a top recommended brand?

[TopJimmy]

Originally Posted by JipperII

Thanks guys! Really great insights...sounds like the cost benefit might not be there on the performance...maybe I'll just lose 40 pounds and call it a day!

Cbc sounds good, is there a top recommended brand?

All basically the same. Kies makes a nice one. Might as well add the front main seal shield while you're in that spot, and if you took the belt off.

[M5D]

Now, that our cars are showing high miles, it seems like the ones with crank hub issues are the ones that were tuned pushing beyond 600hp. Otherwise, save your money for a painfully expensive leaking valve cover/gasket, coils. If you can do the work then it is just parts! I am at 87k and no leaks and I don't drive it like a grandma car, or like a leased car! If you are going to do the capture, then do the belts and pullies, also!

[JipperII]

Originally Posted by TopJimmy

CBC only

Very curious on the CBC....does it simply make the potential for a spun hub less or does it make the damage from a spun hub less, or something different?

Thanks again

[TopJimmy]

Originally Posted by JipperII

Very curious on the CBC....does it simply make the potential for a spun hub less or does it make the damage from a spun hub less, or something different?

Thanks again

It reduces the potential for bolt slip by physically holding the bolt in place. If the bolt can't move then hub pins can't come out.