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07-31-2013, 03:15 AM | #3 |
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Performance Friction Direct Drive Rotors:
http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=818535 Front only. I've found some cool looking rear floating rotors from REBS in Korea. Will pass on the pricing when I find out. http://zenondt.com/bbs/zboard.php?id...esc=asc&no=167
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08-01-2013, 12:54 AM | #4 |
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And Race Brakes too:
http://www.racingbrake.com/Two-piece...-M3-p/2161.htm http://www.racingbrake.com/Two-piece...-M3-p/2162.htm
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08-05-2013, 08:46 AM | #7 | |
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08-05-2013, 09:41 AM | #8 |
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This is what I'd go for (due to good feedback from other platform):
http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=860667 Need more interest from people though.
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08-06-2013, 09:47 AM | #9 | |
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$900 for the rear floating disc kit $5000 for the M5 kit
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08-06-2013, 10:00 AM | #10 |
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I found these prices to be pretty good for OEM rotors. http://www.rmeuropean.com/Part-Numbe..._6BB4EABD.aspx
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08-14-2013, 01:57 AM | #11 | |
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Our vote goes to the Performance Friction Direct Drive Rotors!
PFC DD rotor discussion: http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthr...mance+friction Quote:
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08-15-2013, 12:36 PM | #12 | |
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08-15-2013, 11:20 PM | #13 |
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thoughts on stoptech rotors?
http://shop.acuteperformance.com/sto...d/g-55256.aspx anyone with experience with these?
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08-16-2013, 06:36 PM | #15 | |
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@ the OP. The OEM rotors are solid. You can pair them up with more agressive pads at the expense of rotor life, of course |
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10-09-2013, 07:12 PM | #16 |
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10-10-2013, 03:52 PM | #17 |
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RB rotors are a good upgrade for a street car, but they have not fair well on the track. If 2-piece rotors are a must-have, the PFC DD 2-piece is a much better choice.
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10-16-2013, 06:38 AM | #19 |
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When you write "better than stock," what are your expectations? These are just lumps of metal that absorb heat. The stock ones do a very good job. The quality aftermarket stock replacements will also do a very good job. Low quality aftermarket replacements may warp, crack, or fill their vents with rust faster. Expensive aftermarket upgrade rotors may weigh slightly less if two-piece and/or vent slightly better, but I am not sure even a race car driver could tell the very slight difference. For some two-piece, there may not even be any long term cost savings since replacement rotor rings are proprietary and possibly as expensive as new stock or aftermarket stock rotors.
If you have a problem you are trying to fix, the it is worthwhile looking for a solution. For example, maybe you are warping stock rotors regularly on the track. I noticed the OP's other thread on lightweight batteries. If paying big bucks to save a few pounds is important, go for two piece rotors. You should drop a couple of pounds per rotor. This is unsprung weight, so savings here are worth several times that elsewhere. You could probably also save some weight with a full aftermarket brake kit that replaces the massive cast iron single piston sliding calipers we have. Just don't go much bigger on the rotor or you will offset the loss. Lightweight wheels are also great, and some tires are lighter for the same size than others. |
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10-16-2013, 09:06 AM | #20 | |
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I did the mistake of driving a new 911 in the mountains.
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10-17-2013, 03:02 PM | #21 | |
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BBK is more for heat management... |
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10-20-2013, 03:15 PM | #22 |
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For the most initial bite, I'd stick with stock brake pads. Bite is really in the pad material. Most performance pads shift the temperature range up, so they trade initial bite for more fade resistance under temperature when worked hard.
I don't think big brakes stop any better in daily driving on the street. Their advantages start to show up when their better heat dissipation comes into play, which is when they are hot, like during repeated high speed stops. Unless you drive at high speeds on deserted canyon or mountain roads, you probably won't experience fade unless on the track. |
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